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What color should I paint my 72 Jazz? Non-binding poll

What color should I paint my 72 Jazz bass?


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Again, thanks everyone for the feedback and comments. Based on comments by @Belka and @iammr2 , I took a better look at the bass and took some pics, and I found some interesting stuff.

I was curious as to if I could tell what the original color was, and I came up with more questions than answers.

First off, when I say it is a crappy refin, I really mean that it's a crappy refin. This is the treble side neck pocket.

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Now, I know under that neck in the neck pocket are some stamps and wood, so that wasn't completely painted over, but pulling the neck off is more of a commitment than I can handle right now. If you're thinking "why don't you go pull off the neck instead of posting on TB," I technically supposed to be in an all day work session, and I can easily type while on video, but if I start pulling the neck off of a bass, someone may start asking questions. Aside from that, I'm the boss and I should be leading by example ...

Here's where I find it interesting. There are several places where the paint has chipped/worn thru, and I've done my best to capture in the pics. As I stated earlier, there is no clear coat over the white pearl finish. Best I can tell, it's a layer of blue-gray primer underneath then bare wood (the primer looks more blue IRL than in the pics, I almost got a little excited that the pearl white was just painted over the original blue, but nope, it really does look like primer).

So the primer looks a little more blue in person, and the wood looks slightly darker IMO. The underlying wood is uniform in color underneath all of the chips, so it's safe to assume that the wood is consistent in color on the entire bass (i.e. this isn't a section of wood that is darker because it got exposed to oils, etc.).

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I think the interesting part is the wood underneath. It's worn very smooth, and in some places it seems like it might actually be the clearcoat of the old finish, but it is most likely bare wood, as the wood color matches the spot that's exposed in the cavity, and that is definitely bare wood.

Given that, it doesn't look like ash to me - it really looks like alder. I'm not a wood expert by any means, and after 52 years who knows what it's been thru, but I find it interesting nonetheless. It wasn't uncommon for Fender to use what they had, so a maple neck with an alder body from the factory wouldn't be out of the question. It's pretty light for a 70's Jazz, a shade under 9 lbs.

I'm now really curious as to what's underneath, to the point where I don't think leaving it "as is" is going to be an option - especially if I pull the neck/pups out to further investigate.

I'm interested in opinions!
 
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That
"It's worn very smooth, and in some places it seems like it might actually be the clearcoat of the old finish, but it is most likely bare wood, as the wood color matches the spot that's exposed in the cavity, and that is definitely bare wood."

That may be the Fullerplast coat. My old '72's worn areas were slick and shiny also. It looked like bare wood, but it wasn't.
 
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I'll see if I have time to pop off the control panel this weekend (might not be able to tho, family is coming into town). The last two digits of the SN are 45 - LMK if this was yours!

One thing to note - the case is printed with "Glass Hammer" in big white letters, so I'm assuming that at one point it was owned by the bassist from Glass Hammer. I can't 100% confirm that tho, but signs point in that direction.

Darn! If the number before the "45" is a "3", it may be close, but still no cigar.

You may be able to take a small pocket knife and lightly scrape through a small area of the control cavity to see if you can see the original paint. If all you see is wood, it may have been a natural finish. Just a thought.
 
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Darn! If the number before the "45" is a "3", it may be close, but still no cigar.

You may be able to take a small pocket knife and lightly scrape through a small area of the control cavity to see if you can see the original paint. If all you see is wood, it may have been a natural finish. Just a thought.
Sorry my friend, the last four digits are "445."

There is an area of the control cavity that is down to the bare wood, as in, it's not smooth and I can feel the grain - check the pic that I posted, it's that little spot. I chipped a little off, and it's just the pearl white refin. A little further below, and it looks light blue, but it could be the shadows and the primer. I scrapped a little and just got pearl white.

I have a feeling that this won't be solved until I pull the bass apart for the refin, if even then.
 
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Back when I was a wee pre-teen and I was painting model cars, I briefly thought that Candy Apple Red was the only “candy” color out there.

Then I discovered Candy Sapphire Blue.

mind=blown

Since you already have some Jazz Basses in all the iconic colors — including Candy Apple Red — then the only obvious color for this instrument is Candy Sapphire Blue.
I kinda like the idea of this - a candy blue might look nice on this bass.
 
Nightwatch Blue used to be available in Acrylic lacquer. It’s essentially 2 colors in one. In low light it is black, but in a spotlight or sunlight, it’s a deeeep blue. When buffed and polished and in bright light, it looks like you could stick your arm in it up to your armpit.
TCP Global still has it, and in a urethane as well!

Edit: I actually have a 2 oz bottle of the sapphire blue candy.
 
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Shoreline Gold, Golden Bronze or Candy Apple Green would be my top 3 suggestions (in order).

At first i would've said Walnut/Burgundy/Wine red, but then i thought about it and if you already have multiple CAR instruments it might be too much to have another red-ish one. Since you don't really care and you know you're not gonna sell it: Might as well go funky and pick a color shade you don't already have in your collection!

I saw some say Inca Silver. I love Inca Silver. Then i saw the comments about the Shoreline Gold and i'm not usually not a fan but i think this is a great option with that neck and the pickguards you already have. I'd do it. It also made me remember of Golden Bronze which is a dark warm grey, kind of an in between of charcoal and gold. But usually Golden Bronze comes factory with Tort pickguard and rosewood fretboard so idk about the match.

Back when I was a wee pre-teen and I was painting model cars, I briefly thought that Candy Apple Red was the only “candy” color out there.

Then I discovered Candy Sapphire Blue.
Love that color, specially with Black Pickguard and chrome hardware. Candy Apple Green is another excellent Candy Color.
 
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Shoreline Gold, Golden Bronze or Candy Apple Green would be my top 3 suggestions (in order).

At first i would've said Walnut/Burgundy/Wine red, but then i thought about it and if you already have multiple CAR instruments it might be too much to have another red-ish one. Since you don't really care and you know you're not gonna sell it: Might as well go funky and pick a color shade you don't already have in your collection!

I saw some say Inca Silver. I love Inca Silver. Then i saw the comments about the Shoreline Gold and i'm not usually not a fan but i think this is a great option with that neck and the pickguards you already have. I'd do it. It also made me remember of Golden Bronze which is a dark warm grey, kind of an in between of charcoal and gold. But usually Golden Bronze comes factory with Tort pickguard and rosewood fretboard so idk about the match.


Love that color, specially with Black Pickguard and chrome hardware. Candy Apple Green is another excellent Candy Color.
I'm digging the candy apple green. Today I'm leaning towards something a little more flashy, and CAG fits the bill!
 
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First off, thanks all for the suggestions and discussions! I got a ton of good information and opinions, and it's awesome to hear all the POVs.

The results of the (non-binding) poll - 1st place - don't do anything, it has mojo. Second place is Lake Placid Blue (the color that I was leaning towards in the first place and third place is a custom color.

Although I reserve the right to change my mind at any time, I've decided on refinishing in Lake Placid Blue.

I was leaning that way in the first place, but what really sealed the deal is that I pulled the pickguard off and found the original Lake Placid Blue finish underneath this awful white pearl.

The universe (and Talkbass) have spoken!

I found a place that has the original LPB color that Cadillac used from 65-73 (in poly, no less!), which would have been the same paint and color that Fender use in 72. It's used for Cadillac restorations, so It's what I'm looking for. I'm not going to go for an aged/yellowed clearcoat LPB, but I might customize the paint for a faded LPB - that will be a game time decision, I kinda want to see what it looks like in person before I do any mods to the paint.

Thanks again for all your comments, opinions, and votes!

As a side note, what kind of knucklehead did this refinish? They obviously used a cheap a rattle can and didn't prep for poopie. It looks like there are some places on the bass that they used a stripped, some they sanded, some they just painted right over the original finish and clear coat. It's cracked in some places, sunken in others, there are blobs of paint in random places ... whoever did this shouldn't be let near a bass guitar with a can of paint again!

Not to mention painting over that gorgeous LPB. Knucklehead, indeed!
 
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As a follow-up, I found a guy that has an original can of LPB auto paint from the late 60's. It's well past it's shelf life, but I'm interested in seeing the color. Can't get more authentic than that.

I ordered LPB paint samples from a few different vendors, knowing that just because the color is listed as LPB doesn't mean it will match the LPB of what Fender used in 72. If I have the actual old paint, I'll be able to match it perfectly.
 
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