Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
What Features Do You Tend To Avoid When Choosing A Bass?
Neck-through basses:
1) I like to recontour bass bodies, which is much easier with the neck removed;
2) I dislike the look of basses with a neck-though "racing stripe" that's visible on the front.
Gold hardware. I prefer black, and the brushed satin finish on 55-02 hardware.
Pick guards. Some basses look great with a pick guard, but the ones I like usually look best - to me - without a pick guard.
Control cavity and battery compartment covers that require tools to open. It's 2011. Embrace rare earth magnets!
Gloss finishes on necks. Make mine smooooooth satin.
Input jack on the face of the bass. I prefer the input jack to be on the bottom edge, near the strap button and the wireless transmitter on my strap.
V-V-T. I came of age playing DB and P-bass; I didn't buy a bass with two pickups until the 21st century, and adapted to a blend knob far easier than two volume knobs.
Pickup and bridge covers. I always thought they looked cool on someone else's bass, but every time I've played a bass with covers they were in my way.
String trees. Don't like 'em, never have.
Bridge Design Elements:
1) Bridge saddles that "require" exposed-core strings;
2) Bridges without top-loading. I dislike threading strings through holes; much easier with a top-loading bridge.
3) Through-body stringing. I prefer flats, and most flats dislike sharp break angles, I don't like threading strings through holes, and I don't want to worry about strings being long enough.
Reverse tuning machines. I've had 'em on my P-bass for decades, and still dislike them.
Tuning machines that are awkward to reach and turn.
I wish more luthiers oriented their tuning machines toward the player - like Warwick.
Painted bodies without matching headstocks. Personal preference.
Fingerboard dots. Why adorn a fingerboard with visual aids for audience members? Will there be a quiz after the gig?
Roundwound strings. Most roundwound strings make noises I dislike. I don't care if that's what's "standard;" I'd like my bass strung with TI jazz flats, please.
Standard strap buttons. Make mine Dunlop strap locks, please; the same color as the rest of the hardware.
Standard strap button location. Please install mine on the "B" string side of the bridge, not along the mid-line of the bridge.
Slab-sides bodies. I prefer bodies that are contoured for comfort and playability.
Nitrocellulose lacquer. Doesn't wear very well.
Relic'd basses. Not my thing.
Active only. Please provide an active/passive switch and a passive tone control (VTC).
Short upper horn. I prefer basses with an upper horn that reaches to the 12th or 11th fret; helps maintain a more upright headstock orientation.
Standard P-bass pickup orientation. I prefer reverse-P.
Unmarked knobs. I like position indicators on my knobs that are subtle in appearance, yet visible at a glance while playing.
Closely-spaced strings. Especially at the bridge.
Small-radius fingerboards. Ten inches or flatter on a 5-string works best for me.
Neck-through basses:
1) I like to recontour bass bodies, which is much easier with the neck removed;
2) I dislike the look of basses with a neck-though "racing stripe" that's visible on the front.
Gold hardware. I prefer black, and the brushed satin finish on 55-02 hardware.
Pick guards. Some basses look great with a pick guard, but the ones I like usually look best - to me - without a pick guard.
Control cavity and battery compartment covers that require tools to open. It's 2011. Embrace rare earth magnets!
Gloss finishes on necks. Make mine smooooooth satin.
Input jack on the face of the bass. I prefer the input jack to be on the bottom edge, near the strap button and the wireless transmitter on my strap.
V-V-T. I came of age playing DB and P-bass; I didn't buy a bass with two pickups until the 21st century, and adapted to a blend knob far easier than two volume knobs.
Pickup and bridge covers. I always thought they looked cool on someone else's bass, but every time I've played a bass with covers they were in my way.
String trees. Don't like 'em, never have.
Bridge Design Elements:
1) Bridge saddles that "require" exposed-core strings;
2) Bridges without top-loading. I dislike threading strings through holes; much easier with a top-loading bridge.
3) Through-body stringing. I prefer flats, and most flats dislike sharp break angles, I don't like threading strings through holes, and I don't want to worry about strings being long enough.
Reverse tuning machines. I've had 'em on my P-bass for decades, and still dislike them.
Tuning machines that are awkward to reach and turn.
I wish more luthiers oriented their tuning machines toward the player - like Warwick.
Painted bodies without matching headstocks. Personal preference.
Fingerboard dots. Why adorn a fingerboard with visual aids for audience members? Will there be a quiz after the gig?
Roundwound strings. Most roundwound strings make noises I dislike. I don't care if that's what's "standard;" I'd like my bass strung with TI jazz flats, please.
Standard strap buttons. Make mine Dunlop strap locks, please; the same color as the rest of the hardware.
Standard strap button location. Please install mine on the "B" string side of the bridge, not along the mid-line of the bridge.
Slab-sides bodies. I prefer bodies that are contoured for comfort and playability.
Nitrocellulose lacquer. Doesn't wear very well.
Relic'd basses. Not my thing.
Active only. Please provide an active/passive switch and a passive tone control (VTC).
Short upper horn. I prefer basses with an upper horn that reaches to the 12th or 11th fret; helps maintain a more upright headstock orientation.
Standard P-bass pickup orientation. I prefer reverse-P.
Unmarked knobs. I like position indicators on my knobs that are subtle in appearance, yet visible at a glance while playing.
Closely-spaced strings. Especially at the bridge.
Small-radius fingerboards. Ten inches or flatter on a 5-string works best for me.
) :
and 4 - 6 strings.
