I know! Ever notice how when you think you have a good point 50 people can prove you are clueless in 5 minutes on this damn forum? I've decided that I just don't know anything.
WAIT A MINUTE!! Take heart! This is a good thing. Remember that an expert is a person that knows more and more about less and less. So that when you find the one thing that you can be an expert about, all other things cease to matter.
Remember the movie "City Slickers," where Curly (Jack Palance) told Billy Crystal's character that he had to find out what the "one" thing was? You have to find your "one."
That way, you can have opinions on everything else, but be willing and able to present your creds to demonstrate your expertise.
I was the same way with technology - I even have a Master of Education degree in Educational Technology and am State certified. Then, the State (Pennsylvania) changed administrations, so the Department of Education director changed, therefore standards changed, and it became more and more expensive to keep up with all I needed to know and become aware of as technology progresses. But now I know just enough to tick off IT people that are experts at networking and hardware, but are freakin' clueless as to how people use technology and how it should be used.
Find your expertise - technique, transcription, bass construction, electronics, how woods and electronics work together, etc. - and master it.
As for maple v. rosewood, maple is a hard wood that is gives you brighter tone and harder attack; rosewood is a softer wood and gives you a more balanced tone. It works better with electronics for a wide range of uses (which is why it's a most prevalent type of board out there on commercially available guitars and basses). Ebony is also a hard wood, giving a more pronounced attack like maple, and balances out the warm tone woods of spruce (on guitar and violin) and mahogany which bodies can be made of, and rosewood balances out the brighter bodies of ash and alder. (Come to think of it, why aren't bass bodies made of spruce?)
Now if you have an ash or alder body, a maple neck and board, that's going to be a really bright sounding bass, with not a lot of mid-range tone. You might want to balance that with some "darker" electronics, like Bartolini pickups and EQ. But if you have a mahogany body, and a wenge neck and board (like an Ibanez SR506), you might want to consider replacing the Bartolini electronics (even though it sounds great) with an Audere pre-amp, since Auderes let the more of the natural sound of the woods of the bass come through.
I completely agree with Rav - you'll be amazed at how many people to tell you to scoop out your mids. All they want is bass "mud," since you're mids cut through the mix. In fact, your mids are equivalent to a guitar's treble boost. Many basses I've played simply add "hiss" when you kick up the treble on an EQ. This is, why I think lots of folks like passive electronics, so that the amp can do the tone work. Me, I like active. I would much rather control my tone based on how my bass is constructed, and then run through a Crown amplifier (with no tone control at all) and speaker. I wouldn't be able to do that with a Fender, though (which I why I don't own nor play one - remember that the excellent sound you hear from a P or a Jazz bass on a recording has gone through all kinds of signal processing in a studio). When you're looking for your tone, it's not enough just to get a bass that has tone woods or electronics - you have to play it through a rig, too...that will have an effect on sound as well.
Then again, I'm no expert (if I was, I'd be playing in a studio somewhere...)
Z