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What just happened? Cabinet sparks

#21
Light bulb in series with the tweeter to limit the current to the tweeter.
It's a "variable fuse" that will eventually become an open circuit if it "stays lit" to long or too intensely.

If everything still works, it did it's job and saved you $$$$. If you find yourself replacing them often, install a socket.
 
#22
Ok, I must have a bad connection somewhere then. My sax player was standing very close to my pedal board so maybe he stepped on one of my cables and caused a short term disconnect.

Thanks for all the help gents!
 
#23
That "bulb-fuse" is usually part of an L-pad that controls the crossover and volume of the tweeter. That will burn that bulb out if the control is turned all the to OFF. That's a common thing with the Eden cabs. If you turn that tweeter control all the way off it builds-up some power in the L-pad and hopefully burns out the bulb before it burns out the L-pad. Good news is L-pads aren't that expensive. Better news is that if you just turn it on slightly, that won't happen. I'd suggest that once you replace that burned out bulb-fuse, make sure your tweeter control is just slightly on and not totally off. That should also stop it from the ghostly glowing you sometimes see in cabs.
 
#25
On a properly designed crossover, turning the tweeter all the way down will not damage anything. This is true of all of the GB speakers including the OP's cabinet.
 
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#27
On the old Eden designed SWR goliath II, the foster horn crossover is protected with a current limiting light bulb. I replaced one when I first bought the cabinet. It cost $3.50 at Gelb Music in Redwood City, CA. Ed, the bass guru there said they are automobile dome lightbulbs, and can be found at auto parts suppliers for very cheap.
 
#28
Jim Carr said:
On the old Eden designed SWR goliath II, the foster horn crossover is protected with a current limiting light bulb. I replaced one when I first bought the cabinet. It cost $3.50 at Gelb Music in Redwood City, CA. Ed, the bass guru there said they are automobile dome lightbulbs, and can be found at auto parts suppliers for very cheap.
Click to expand...

That type of automotive light bulb normally has the bulb part number printed on its metal base. I have seen the part number both embossed into the metal surface sometimes and also printed on the surface.
 
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#29
Jim Carr said:
On the old Eden designed SWR goliath II, the foster horn crossover is protected with a current limiting light bulb. I replaced one when I first bought the cabinet. It cost $3.50 at Gelb Music in Redwood City, CA. Ed, the bass guru there said they are automobile dome lightbulbs, and can be found at auto parts suppliers for very cheap.
Click to expand...
Sometimes but not always, it depends entirely on the application.

Most of what I have used are 24 volt lamps used in the aircraft and trucking industries. VERY different performance curves, they look just like their 12 volt cousins so you can't tell without looking up the number or going with the OEM part.
 
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#31
Rip Van Dan said:
That "bulb-fuse" is usually part of an L-pad that controls the crossover and volume of the tweeter. That will burn that bulb out if the control is turned all the to OFF. That's a common thing with the Eden cabs. If you turn that tweeter control all the way off it builds-up some power in the L-pad and hopefully burns out the bulb before it burns out the L-pad. Good news is L-pads aren't that expensive. Better news is that if you just turn it on slightly, that won't happen. I'd suggest that once you replace that burned out bulb-fuse, make sure your tweeter control is just slightly on and not totally off. That should also stop it from the ghostly glowing you sometimes see in cabs.
Click to expand...

If that happens--- something is not wired correctly.
I used 2 single 12 Eden cabs for 3 years for my EUB- tweet control OFF,
When I used the rig for my BG, I turned them up half way-
Never burned anything out (1000 watt AI head).
 
#32
Communiuty Cabs used to have light bulbs that would burn off excess current. First time they lighted up I thought they were on fire, scared the Bejesus out of me. I called my dealer and he explained, we had a good laugh. Of course this was in the eighties.
 
#33
Jim Carr said:
On the old Eden designed SWR goliath II, the foster horn crossover is protected with a current limiting light bulb. I replaced one when I first bought the cabinet. It cost $3.50 at Gelb Music in Redwood City, CA. Ed, the bass guru there said they are automobile dome lightbulbs, and can be found at auto parts suppliers for very cheap.
Click to expand...

It works in theory--- but not as well. It will likely burn out easier.
I've replaced many for friends and a few for myself --- the diligent looks different than an auto bulb. I crossed referenced one on just bulbs.com and it was a
32V bulb (probably used in a 24v, machine control application).
 
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#34
The first time I experienced that was when I was trying out an Eden D-410XLT at the Fountain Valley GC. I popped a couple notes and saw a flash with each one and thought "Uh-ohhhh." I discretely turned off the amp and nonchalantly slid over to the wall of bass, not knowing everything was copacetic after all.
 
#35
Slevage said:
If that happens--- something is not wired correctly.
I used 2 single 12 Eden cabs for 3 years for my EUB- tweet control OFF,
When I used the rig for my BG, I turned them up half way-
Never burned anything out (1000 watt AI head).
Click to expand...

The Eden cabs will never have any problem as long as you have it on a little. Most people run it about 9 o'clock, some run it much higher than that. If you bury it to the left, that's where the overload problem can appear. if you move just a touch up from totally off, you'll never have a problem. If you want to find out more about burning up L-pads by turning that all the way off, go visit the Eden forum (now known as Edenampsforum) and do a search on it. You'll find volumes of examples of people who did that. Ask Armin (Bassmann1968) for the specifics and he'll tell you exactly what's going on in the L-pad when you turn it all the way off and why Eden recommends that you don't do that with their cabs. If you want to turn it off and leave it off, remove the bulb-fuse and that will effectively disconnect the tweeter.

Bet those two Eden 112's sounded great with your upright! Two of those always has a better sound than one.
 
#37
Rip Van Dan said:
The Eden cabs will never have any problem as long as you have it on a little. Most people run it about 9 o'clock, some run it much higher than that. If you bury it to the left, that's where the overload problem can appear. if you move just a touch up from totally off, you'll never have a problem. If you want to find out more about burning up L-pads by turning that all the way off, go visit the Eden forum (now known as Edenampsforum) and do a search on it. You'll find volumes of examples of people who did that. Ask Armin (Bassmann1968) for the specifics and he'll tell you exactly what's going on in the L-pad when you turn it all the way off and why Eden recommends that you don't do that with their cabs. If you want to turn it off and leave it off, remove the bulb-fuse and that will effectively disconnect the tweeter.

Bet those two Eden 112's sounded great with your upright! Two of those always has a better sound than one.
Click to expand...

They sounded great, but went with a combo.
L pands at zero--- no burn outs with 1000w amps- just my experience-
Sorry others had problems.
 
#38
Slevage said:
They sounded great, but went with a combo.
L pands at zero--- no burn outs with 1000w amps- just my experience-
Sorry others had problems.
Click to expand...

Me too, I thinks it's a bit goofy to make it like that. If there has to be a little current going through to keep it from burning up, just make the darn stop so it says 0 but is slightly open. Glad you never had a problem with it.
 
#39
Rip Van Dan said:
Me too, I thinks it's a bit goofy to make it like that. If there has to be a little current going through to keep it from burning up, just make the darn stop so it says 0 but is slightly open. Glad you never had a problem with it.
Click to expand...

Easy fix--- don't tie the end of the pot directly to ground---- put a (insert low value) ohm resistor in series with the "grounded" end.
 
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