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Double Bass What makes a double bass loud?

Thats an interesting question and one that I've given a lot of thought to after trying a colleagues bass ( a pretty simple newish Romanian smallish 3/4 carved bass ). His bass was truly way louder that any bass that I've ever laid hands upon and that goes for some well set up big name vintage basses that were lovely an many ways but not near the 'cannon' that this particular bass is.

I guess some basses are just born that way .....
 
Loud is something that stays with you. Tone project into the crowd. To achieve what you are looking for there are a few things that you can do.

Starting at the top. Make sure that the strings sit very close to the fingerboard of course this means that the camber of the fingerboard is well done or it will buzz. Then you can adjust the projected height of the fb by putting a shim under it to allow for a higher bridge which increases the static load of the bridge which in turn amplifies the frequency strength of the played string. The nut at the bottom can also be lowered to further increase the pitch of the strings at the bridge.

With this achieved you can now put on a higher tension string on which often favors the tops which you can overcome by using an oversize sound post that is well fitted and must not be too tight.

Fiddle with some of these things and you should be a winner. If this does not work then it is time to go deeper which is another task altogether ... A rebuild.
 
Loud is something that stays with you. Tone project into the crowd. To achieve what you are looking for there are a few things that you can do.

Starting at the top. Make sure that the strings sit very close to the fingerboard of course this means that the camber of the fingerboard is well done or it will buzz. Then you can adjust the projected height of the fb by putting a shim under it to allow for a higher bridge which increases the static load of the bridge which in turn amplifies the frequency strength of the played string. The nut at the bottom can also be lowered to further increase the pitch of the strings at the bridge.

With this achieved you can now put on a higher tension string on which often favors the tops which you can overcome by using an oversize sound post that is well fitted and must not be too tight.

Fiddle with some of these things and you should be a winner. If this does not work then it is time to go deeper which is another task altogether ... A rebuild.
The things you mention would only work on certain basses. You just can't say that any bass will sound better with lowered, high-tension strings. Some basses sound better low tension strings, which is why those are a commercially available product.

As I mentioned in my last post, there are dozens of variables in the set-up that affect tone and volume. Different basses need different set-ups; there just isn't a one-size-fits-all approach that guarantees a louder, better bass.
 
‘Loudness’ can be a subjective term, particularly when you consider that, for any given instrument, ‘loudness’ will vary across the frequency spectrum that they produce (ie, will not produce a flat frequency response for the same energy level inputed across the spectrum). If you’re looking to compete with a grand piano, are you chasing more bass frequencies, or better upper & mid-bass projection so that the harmonies are more obvious? (I personally think that our perception of bass-loudness is driven more from the latter than the former, as our ears are tuned mostly to vocal frequencies than top or bottom end).

In general, though, think in terms of energy; the more efficiently your instrument can convert mechanical energy into sound (at whatever frequency), the louder it will be. By ‘efficiency’, we’re talking about how little energy is lost or damped, so the more energy you can put in with fewer energy-sinks (or vibration-damping factors/mechanisms) present, the better. As has been mentioned previously, there are many factors that contribute to this, but start by categorizing them into groups that are either not easily changed (ie, fundamental instrument construction eg, top thickness, physical body volume, bass bar thickness etc) and those that are (strings gauge/weight/tension, tailpiece weight, string-height); obviously, start with the easier, latter group.

There are some generalizations that seem to work fairly universally (such as string height; more room to vibrate = bigger vibrations = more energy. Maybe this is because that’s an energy input factor, not a sink), but others will vary according to your instrument. For example, heavier strings will impart more energy into the top than lighter ones, but if the extra tension chokes or damps the top too much (at certain critical/a significant range of/all frequencies), then the opposite effect is achieved; the top vibrates less and the bass is quieter overall.

I’ll re-float my theory here that the older the wood, the better suited to heavy strings a bass is; I reckon that due to a loss of natural ‘springiness’ within the wood (and a resulting drop in resonant frequency for a given top-thickness as the fibres change with time & moisture loss), more energy is required to get the wood to ‘speak’. Newer wood has more springiness (and a higher resonant frequency) and too heavy a string will actually damp that, so lighter strings are better (at least, in allowing the mid/upper range to speak more & therefore allow the bass the sound louder). (Caveat: That’s just my own $0.02 theory based on general observations from what’s worked on my bass and for those of other players around me; no flames, please!):hiding:

Well said.
 
svenizm said:
Make sure that the strings sit very close to the fingerboard of course this means that the camber of the fingerboard is well done or it will buzz.

Thanks for your contribution! However, conventional wisdom is that a lower action will produce less volume, not more (see previous posts above). Also, buzz at low action is more than likely to be due to just that; insufficient space for the strings to vibrate along their length. At higher action-heights where only individual strings are buzzing, if (1) buzzing occurs on individual notes on the string, then it may be a fb issue, but along its length rather than the camber, or (2) if buzzing occurs at all notes on that string then, yes, it may a camber issue, but in that case it would be far easier to re-shape the bridge than the fb.

Then you can adjust the projected height of the fb by putting a shim under it to allow for a higher bridge which increases the static load of the bridge which in turn amplifies the frequency strength of the played string... ...If this does not work then it is time to go deeper which is another task altogether ... A rebuild.

I'm presuming that you're suggesting to raise both the fb & bridge to maintain the low action you recommended; see comments above. I agree that a higher bridge height will increase the angle of the strings relative to the top & increase the downforce through the bridge into the top; this extra loading may well improve the bridge-foot/top connection and therefore minimise vibration/energy-loss, which may improve volume as well as tone. (I wonder if it's possible to go too high & apply too much pressure? Or would the increase not be that significant? Thoughts, anyone?) Ensuring a good fit of foot to top is another thing to look at there, though. Also, shimming up the fb is a pretty major job compared to other tweaks; I'd classify that is falling into rebuild territory, myself.

The nut at the bottom can also be lowered to further increase the pitch of the strings at the bridge.
Not sure what you're getting at here; the nut is at the top of the neck, not the bottom (of what?). Were you referring to the tailcord saddle? And by pitch, did you mean angle (as opposed to a tuning-reference)?

With this achieved you can now put on a higher tension string on which often favors the tops which you can overcome by using an oversize sound post that is well fitted and must not be too tight.
Again, see previous comments re the suitability of high-tension strings to some basses but not others. Re soundposts: Not sure how a 'well-fitted' equates to 'oversize'; also, what sort of top were you referring to and what exactly needed overcoming?

Thanks again for your thoughts. Please note that this reply is not in any way a flame or an attempt to belittle your contribution; I'm just responding to ensure that we clarify information & all end up heading in the right direction on this topic. Accordingly, if I'm wrong on anything, I'm more than happy to be intelligently & factually corrected on it so that I can keep learning too.

Peace & mung beans : )