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What makes DR Fat Beams different from DR Hi-Beams?

DR got back to me the same day. Here is what they say:

"The difference is in the construction. The materials for both are stainless steel over round core-wire. Interestingly enough, the sound difference (and there is one, if you're not already familiar with both) is mainly the result of different winding speeds and tensions used in applying the wrap.
But just like the Colonel's secret recipe, I don't have much detail to offer on that.
By the way, if you have tried both I'd be interested to know what you think.
Thanks for taking time to email us."

Winding speed is the answer, for the most part.
 
My main strings for most of my basses are Fat Beams. I've noticed more pronounced mids and more punch than Hi Beams. Just overall more full sounding strings IMO. On the Brubakers I use 45's because I can dial the neck in straight with very low action even with that thicker gauge. On other basses I use 40's (like my Marleaux JB Deluxe 5).

I haven't been paying more for the FB than the HB strings.
 
DR got back to me the same day. Here is what they say:

"The difference is in the construction. The materials for both are stainless steel over round core-wire. Interestingly enough, the sound difference (and there is one, if you're not already familiar with both) is mainly the result of different winding speeds and tensions used in applying the wrap.
But just like the Colonel's secret recipe, I don't have much detail to offer on that.
By the way, if you have tried both I'd be interested to know what you think.
Thanks for taking time to email us."

Winding speed is the answer, for the most part.

Interesting. Thanks for posting this.
 
Lo-Riders have hex cores instead of round cores.
Yep. This makes them a bit stiffer, which makes it easier to set your action a bit lower without risking as much fret buzz as their slinkier round core strings. That's how they got their name. I like them a lot, myself.
 
Yep. This makes them a bit stiffer, which makes it easier to set your action a bit lower without risking as much fret buzz as their slinkier round core strings. That's how they got their name. I like them a lot, myself.
Yeah, they've allowed me to set my action reasonably low, but I sort of like the high top of Hi-Beams a little more. I switched back, and there's no problem with low action. Just takes a more deft touch so you don't clank against the frets.
 
DR got back to me the same day. Here is what they say:

"The difference is in the construction. The materials for both are stainless steel over round core-wire. Interestingly enough, the sound difference (and there is one, if you're not already familiar with both) is mainly the result of different winding speeds and tensions used in applying the wrap.
But just like the Colonel's secret recipe, I don't have much detail to offer on that.
By the way, if you have tried both I'd be interested to know what you think.
Thanks for taking time to email us."

Winding speed is the answer, for the most part.

That sounds like pretty good customer service. Good for them.
 
...the sound difference (and there is one, if you're not already familiar with both) is mainly the result of different winding speeds and tensions used in applying the wrap.

Winding speed is the answer, for the most part.


Jasper, although I can't say I've used DR strings much at all, I'm going with tension over speed (they mentioned both) as being the more important factor of those mentioned.

A winding that grips the core more tightly will result in a string that flexes less easily, and thus has less harmonics.
 
Jasper, although I can't say I've used DR strings much at all, I'm going with tension over speed (they mentioned both) as being the more important factor of those mentioned.

A winding that grips the core more tightly will result in a string that flexes less easily, and thus has less harmonics.
I'd be interesting to see if anyone that has used both can tell an actual difference in harmonic tone. I'm thinking of grabbing a set of hi or fat beams for my next set. Not that I'm any good with harmonics anyway, but there fun to mess with haha
 
I don't think I've tried Hi Beams yet, but I've tried the Sunbeams, and have both Low riders and a couple of coated sets on my basses (black beauties and peacock blue), but I recently tried the FAT BEAMS (on my jazz), and I'd have to say I like them the most. I'm gonna go see Marcus Miller in a couple weeks...it will be nice to see him play them live!
 
So right now I have hi-beams on my passive p-bass (Sqier and fats on an active J (Fender)... comparison as follows...
Max Bass: Hi beams are very mute like an upright on the P, on the J with fats its all very juicily deep possibly booming (Dont remember as the bass is at GC getting new pups)

Max treble: P-Hi's its all very noisy and extremely bright to the point of distaste, on the J-Fats they retain their bass but it sounds somewhat like a clean/slightly gainy or overdriven guitar.

Now to make a fair judgment I would need to put some Hi's on my J and vice versa but the Hi's just where bright to the point of annoyance...

Color wise one was slightly darker/grayer than the other.

And as wrapping speed pertains to tone and sandwiches, if you wrap a sandwich fastly it gets pressed down and compacted, if you wrap a sandwich slowly it applies less force and gives time to expand...
So if it is wrapped faster and with more tension, the strings will be tighter, and as we all should know trebley sound waves travel faster and in short humps/waves, so a tighter wind will take more advantage of the smaller waves.
Bass like waves travel slower and wider, thus a slower winding at less tension will take advantage of such waves.
 
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I disliked the Fats so much that I'm scared to try Hi-Beams. I think I'll stick to my Lo-Riders.

BTW, what's the tension like on Hi-Beams compared to Lo Riders? Cmon, talk me into buying a set!

How about you just order a set on your next DR order...you are a DR endorser, so you might as well try every set they make just to see what you like and dislike.
 
This is true, but I love the Lo-Riders so much! I can use the 45,65 and 85 tuned a whole step down, the tension is perfect. I've found this not to be the case with other brands, and even other DR sets.

I also 'endorse' Tech, Ampeg and Fender, but I don't necessarily dig everything they make either. *shrug*
 
This is true, but I love the Lo-Riders so much! I can use the 45,65 and 85 tuned a whole step down, the tension is perfect. I've found this not to be the case with other brands, and even other DR sets.

I also 'endorse' Tech, Ampeg and Fender, but I don't necessarily dig everything they make either. *shrug*

I don't know, it's not like you need someone to really convince of anything...we're talking like $10-$15 here, it's almost not worth even spending time thinking about what it could be like when you can just have them sent to you for practically nothing and you know right away whether they work for you or not.
 
I don't know, it's not like you need someone to really convince of anything...we're talking like $10-$15 here, it's almost not worth even spending time thinking about what it could be like when you can just have them sent to you for practically nothing and you know right away whether they work for you or not.

Well, I don't get any discount on strings, I endorse THEM. They don't even know I exist outside of the complaint I brought to their attention. Maybe I don't understand how endorsements work, and I should take that little snip out of my headline.

I will give them a try, and who knows, I may like them. I just try to know as much about a product as possible before I spend my money.