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What matters?

IMO what matters most is whether you are happy with the way you sound.

To achieve that you might experiment with basses, amps, strings or pedals. But the goal will be to sound good to your ear, and the components of that are numerous.

Technique is very important. I'm a slow player and it's a source of frustration, because there are fast passages that I can't seem to master. I modify them so I can actually play something which fits the music.

Understanding musical keys and chords helps a great deal so you're not simply playing from memorization. Eventually that catches up to you.

I like flats, but what strings you play is up to you and your ear.

I think pedals are sometimes used as a crutch when the player is challenged. That part is up to you and your ear.

I don't think woods matter as much as electronics and strings, and for a beginning bass player I think they're pretty much irrelevant. (That's me, you believe what you want.)

So do better than I do, practice more than I do, and study other players and learn keys and chords. You'll do better!
 
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Six months in, your gear is more than adequate for six yers in. Since you’ve played drums already, you likely have good rhythm (unless someone on TB fired you at some point). The most important thing right now is you, the player. Lessons early on will really help, especially to avoid doing the wrong things and then they become habits. Make sure your amp and speakers are adequate, that all depends on your gig.
 
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I am a new bass player, lifelong drummer. I've been playing electric bass about 6 months and following TalkBass throughout. I am trying to figure out what matters most in a bass. From what I've gathered, the wood is minor, the pick ups are psychological, the strings impact playing preference more than sound and the size of the speaker does not correlate to sound frequency. I got mid range basses to begin with (import Lakland, Maruszczyk, vintage Czech Spector) and never really played the economy models. I have found with other instruments, better made instruments tune more accurately and stay in tune. I wanted deep and defined tone with warm, mellow attack (funk, reggae, blues). I was gonna change my bass, then my pick ups and then I thought maybe thicker flatwound strings. But it seems what matters most is what I do with my fingers? (That's what she said).
Yo, Bro..

U gotzit. All u gotz ta do is slappa da bass. Slappa Slappa Slappa.

If u wantsit u ken uze yo fingers!!
 
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Has to look good.
These days, I won't even grab a bass and plug it in if it doesn't look good.

I am so happy to read this. Now I know you won't be competing for the kinds of basses that *I* like. Nowadays, if the bass doesn't look like it survived the siege of Verdun, it gets barely a second glance from me.
 
I am so happy to read this. Now I know you won't be competing for the kinds of basses that *I* like. Nowadays, if the bass doesn't look like it survived the siege of Verdun, it gets barely a second glance from me.
Oh, I'd buy this in a minute!
a15-2.jpg
 
Yeah, I get what you are saying in the original post; there's so much conflicting information and subjective opinion here that it doesn't really clarify anything.

I won't repeat the good advice about "learn and practice" that others have posted here, but I'll add some notes about bass construction:
  • Tonewoods are subjective. That said, "roasted" (caramelized / torrefied) woods have much less moisture content and will be more stable and resonant.
  • Chambered bodies are lighter and thus you can play them longer without getting tired or straining something.
  • Neck shape (i.e. cross-section) affects how you play and thus influences your style. A vintage P-bass doesn't play the same way as a Jazz or a more modern bass like an Ibanez Soundgear. A popular feature is an asymmetrical neck carve that gets flatter on the treble side the higher up the neck you go.
  • Fret size and shape can affect the playing experience. A few luthiers are using so-called "blind" fret techniques where the fret slots stop before the edge of the fingerboard, a bit like how they're done on a fingerboard with binding, but just using wood. Also, note in that image how the fret ends are polished to hemispheres - no rough edges.
  • "Rolled" fingerboard edges are more comfortable generally - Sire does this on all their instruments, and you can order some necks from makers like Musikraft with this feature.
  • Weight. The average weight of a bass these days hovers around 9 pounds (4kg); some go up into the 11-12lb range. That said, some makers are striving to make them lighter but still as resonant. Things like lighter-weight woods, composite materials, lighter hardware, chambering, and even pickups can count. You could make a chambered, roasted swamp ash bass using Gotoh Carbon-O-Lite tuners and bridge, and Lace Alumitone pickups (half the weight of a regular pickup) and have it come in at least 1-2lbs lighter overall.
  • Headless basses like the Ibanez EHB series are usually around 7lbs, and since the hardware is mostly at the bridge end, there's little to no neck dive; something to consider.
  • Hardware does contribute to the resonance and sustain somewhat, but what might be more important is quality and adjustability. Tuners that slip or are too coarsely geared to adjust properly are no fun, and a bridge where you can't adjust spacing or action to suit your taste is going to be frustrating.
  • Neck construction does affect stability and playability. Multi-laminate necks (3-5 pieces) with graphite stabilizing bars are in theory better at resisting warping. With tilt-back headstock designs, I'm always a little hesitant when I see a scarf joint poorly implemented (see: Gibsons and their fragile headstocks), I'm more of a fan of how Yamaha does it by carving it all from a single multilaminate block, and putting truss rod access at the heel.
  • Truss rod wheel adjusters at the body end are just way more convenient as they don't require special tools and you don't have to take the strings off to access it.
 
Don’t overlook the amplifier. Amps are often the tail that wags the dog.

“The Bass” isn’t just your instrument. The sound you hear comes from the instrument, the amplifier, and the player’s technique. They’re interrelated. Part of a system. Change out any of those parts and you get a different “bass.” Which is why two players who are using the exact same instrument and amp will sound different. Many beginners often think if they duplicate their bass hero’s gear the’ll sound like them. Nope. Doesn’t work that way right out of the box. You can probably mimic somebody else’s sound pretty closely if you put enough effort into it. But unless you’re playing in a tribute band stage show I can’t fathom why you would want to sound just like someone else.

As far as instruments go, price is no guarantee of quality. Crappy basses can be found in every price range. If you’re paying a higher price, the odds of you getting a better instrument go up. And you should expect “better quality” (which is a totally subjective assessment btw) since you’re paying a premium to get it. But once again a higher price is no guarantee.

FWIW, my experience with the instruments from the major labels that were manufactured roughly after the year 2010 or so are basically all decent instruments as far as build quality is concerned. Because once you get above the $2K mark the price starts to outweigh the benefits gained. What you then start paying for is nonessential but still nice to have things such as: fancy or exotic woods, a boutique name, customization, and bragging rights because you now own a legitimate work of art.

Where corners get cut on the lower priced basses are in the hardware, electronics, and strings they ship out with. That and the setup.

So start by giving whatever you buy a good setup. Best learn to do it yourself if you don’t already know how to do it. There’s dozens of instructional videos and web pages that can walk you through what’s basically just a 4-step process.

Strings are easy to change and can have a big impact your sound and the feel of a bass. Different strings are the least expensive, easiest, and arguably most cost effective mod you can make to your instrument. I personally believe there’s a near perfect string for every bass. Which is why no two basses I own have the same set of strings.

Pickups also have a significant impact. But once you get into the more premium pickups from the likes of Fender, Fralin, Aguilar, Klein, Nordstrand, et al you’ll find the differences between them aren’t all that great. And they’re all good options if you don’t like what’s already on your bass.

Bridges don’t improve your tone or increase sustain or contribute to tuning stability unless the one already on your bass is broken.

Which brings us to high mass bridges…the marketing hype greatly exceeds the demonstrable benefit. The reality is that it doesn’t matter. So save your money. As was said before, a bridge is a bridge and there’s no need to replace yours unless it’s broken.

Tuners…to me that’s a matter of personal preference depending on the brand and model. Most tuners are adequate. Better tuners make life and tuning easier. And low weight tuners can help with neck dive somewhat. But like the bridge, unless you’re having issues such as slipping, rough turning, or gear backlash, getting new tuners would be low on my priority list

Electronics… can sometimes make a difference if you’ve got absolute junk in your instrument, which I doubt is going to be the case for most new basses out there. But a few CTS or Bourns pots, a polystyrene capacitor, and a reliable Switchcraft jack won’t break the bank if you’re handy with a soldering iron. So it’s your call on that one assuming you’re still unhappy after a string change and a pickup swap.

Finally, there’s still an ongoing debate in some places as to whether a set neck is superior to a bolt-on neck. And if a through neck is superior to both or either. Bottom line: studies have clearly shown that a property attached neck is a properly attached neck. How it’s attached doesn’t matter as long as it was done correctly. There’s no difference in tone or sustain regardless of how it was done.

Strings top loaded vs through the body…again no difference in either tone or sustain using either method.
 
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