What the @#^% were they thinking?

[Handz Solow]

If you're having to adjust the saddle that often there is something wrong with it, maybe look into replacing it

I play hard with no amp often
Its a very simple mechanism
This is a common problem with vintage style bridges. I was considering a Babicz or Hipshot but prefer the classic lines of the stock unit. I dont want to loc tite it
Becauwe I still experiment with differenr strings/action adjustments. It usually takes,two days to drop to the pick up.

 

[Handz Solow]

I play hard with no amp often
Its a very simple mechanism
This is a common problem with vintage style bridges. I was considering a Babicz or Hipshot but prefer the classic lines of the stock unit. I dont want to loc tite it
Becauwe I still experiment with differenr strings/action adjustments. It usually takes,two days to drop to the pick up.

At this point i can make the adjustment quickly by looking at the threads under the bridge so i guess ill live with it. Ive heard of this happening to Fender players during gigs so i dont belive its uncommon.

 

[Handz Solow]

At this point i can make the adjustment quickly by looking at the threads under the bridge so i guess ill live with it. Ive heard of this happening to Fender players during gigs so i dont belive its uncommon.

On the others hand after being adjusted soo much the threads are probobly looser than when new.

 

[OldPlucker]

Also, I have to adjust my Fender Jazz Bass bridge pretty much daily
The G string will drop to the point its sitting on The pickup after a heavy slap and pop ( or thump and pluck session) . Id be in thier poorhouse if i paid the incopetent shmuck at GC to adjust things every time. ( just kiddinh im sure there are some stellar luthiers/techs
At GC lol

I have pretty much never worried about tinkering most basses that I owned. I just never felt the need to adjust the truss rod. I have never paid anyone to set up my bass (yet), though several were set up when I bought them. I have raised and lowered strings and adjusted the intonation. I was going to do the Kestrel until I saw I could damn near fit half of the pack of feeler gauges under the string when the capo was on 1st fret and I was holding the E string down right where the neck joins the body. The bow in the neck was ridiculous; so, I decided take it to back GC and let them deal with it.

I ended up buying new from Coffey Music. Now, I am the original owner with the PRS Limited LifetimeWarranty as opposed to a 30 day GC warranty. This one was professionally set up when I got it compared to GC selling guitars that are in desperate need of set up. I was able to support a stocking local independent dealer who has been an active part of the community and a long time acquaintance. The best part was I only ended up spending about $100 more than I paid for the used one. IMO this was a no brainer. When I do need to adjust the set up, I will have no doubts about my ability or the condition of the bass and any adjustments will be small incremental changes.

 

[scourgeofgod]

I play hard with no amp often
Its a very simple mechanism
This is a common problem with vintage style bridges. I was considering a Babicz or Hipshot but prefer the classic lines of the stock unit. I dont want to loc tite it
Becauwe I still experiment with differenr strings/action adjustments. It usually takes,two days to drop to the pick up.

Pretty sure you can use blue loctite and still adjust it whenever you like.

 

[lowphatbass]

I play hard with no amp often
Its a very simple mechanism
This is a common problem with vintage style bridges. I was considering a Babicz or Hipshot but prefer the classic lines of the stock unit. I dont want to loc tite it
Becauwe I still experiment with differenr strings/action adjustments. It usually takes,two days to drop to the pick up.

Either the set screws are worn out or the threads in the saddle are partially stripped, or maybe both.

There's an optimum height for your G string and my guess is you're not achieving it on a regular basis. Knowing how to adjust your bass is important, knowing when to repair/replace parts on your bass is also important.
Sinking saddles on a stock Fender style bridge isn't too uncommon, but it's not something that I would live with.

 

[Handz Solow]

Either the set screws are worn out or the threads in the saddle are partially stripped, or maybe both.

There's an optimum height for your G string and my guess is you're not achieving it on a regular basis. Knowing how to adjust your bass is important, knowing when to repair/replace parts on your bass is also important.
Sinking saddles on a stock Fender style bridge isn't too uncommon, but it's not something that I would live with.

Well i think im able to do a decent set up and,am very sensitive to small adjustments. The Bass is less than two years old and im the only one who works on it . The saddle appears an functions as the others.
And actually my D strings drops but not quite as quickly. I do run my pick up close to the strings on the treble side. As far as height i set up a tad higher than optimum but still easilly poppoble because I know it will drop.

 

[Handz Solow]

I do adjust my truss rod.
I think you probobly play with a medium to high action and probobly arent too into slapping. With a low action trussrod movement will be more noticable and less acceptable.
Getting the right amount of relief will make your insturment play and sound better. And I would never
Pay anyone to fo it either.
Its part of our craft.
And you can make small incremental adjustments with the truss rod and there are many perfectly good basses in the stores that just need one quick truss rod adjustment to play like butter.
I imagine there are people who belive thier tech is a genius and thier $60 + is well spent because theyre afraid to touch a truss rod.
If you play with a lower action you will see and feel the slightest neck movement. And belive me I know where MY G string belongs.
I just cant get it to stay there.set up is a very personal thing.
Will Lees optimum string height
Is not the same as Marcus Mllers or mine etc.

 

[Handz Solow]

Pretty sure you can use blue loctite and still adjust it whenever you like.

I may try that
I d

I do adjust my truss rod.
I think you probobly play with a medium to high action and probobly arent too into slapping. With a low action trussrod movement will be more noticable and less acceptable.
Getting the right amount of relief will make your insturment play and sound better. And I would never
Pay anyone to fo it either.
Its part of our craft.
And you can make small incremental adjustments with the truss rod and there are many perfectly good basses in the stores that just need one quick truss rod adjustment to play like butter.
I imagine there are people who belive thier tech is a genius and thier $60 + is well spent because theyre afraid to touch a truss rod.
If you play with a lower action you will see and feel the slightest neck movement. And belive me I know where MY G string belongs.
I just cant get it to stay there.set up is a very personal thing.
Will Lees optimum string height
Is not the same as Marcus Mllers or mine etc

 

[Handz Solow]

Its sounds like things worked out for the best. I hope your enjoying that lovely inturment

 

[TDSmith]

There is a purple loctite designed for this purpose (keeping small set screws from turning in vibrating environments). The blue hardens because it is designed to hold the threads of fasteners. If you only want to adjust the saddles once and forget them it's a good choice because it does really glue the threads in place, but the next time you adjust the saddles you will break the bond and have to re-apply it. The purple stuff stays a bit gooey and keeps doing the job. Stay far, far away from the red stuff for basses. It's meant to bond threads together permanently. The loctite literature says you will need to apply heat (torch or soldering iron) if you ever want to turn the screw again.

 

[Handz Solow]

There is a purple loctite designed for this purpose (keeping small set screws from turning in vibrating environments). The blue hardens because it is designed to hold the threads of fasteners. If you only want to adjust the saddles once and forget them it's a good choice because it does really glue the threads in place, but the next time you adjust the saddles you will break the bond and have to re-apply it. The purple stuff stays a bit gooey and keeps doing the job. Stay far, far away from the red stuff for basses. It's meant to bond threads together permanently. The loctite literature says you will need to apply heat (torch or soldering iron) if you ever want to turn the screw again.

Thanks I love purple stuff lol
Sounds like the solution

 

[scourgeofgod]

There is a purple loctite designed for this purpose (keeping small set screws from turning in vibrating environments). The blue hardens because it is designed to hold the threads of fasteners. If you only want to adjust the saddles once and forget them it's a good choice because it does really glue the threads in place, but the next time you adjust the saddles you will break the bond and have to re-apply it. The purple stuff stays a bit gooey and keeps doing the job. Stay far, far away from the red stuff for basses. It's meant to bond threads together permanently. The loctite literature says you will need to apply heat (torch or soldering iron) if you ever want to turn the screw again.

YMMV but:
"Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing"

That's straight from Loctite. I've never dealt with purple, but I've also never had to reapply Blue. Definitely don't use red though.

 

[Handz Solow]

YMMV but:
"Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing"

That's straight from Loctite. I've never dealt with purple, but I've also never had to reapply Blue. Definitely don't use red though.

Csn you break the bond fairly easily for readjustment? Whats the set time?

YMMV but:
"Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing"

That's straight from Loctite. I've never dealt with purple, but I've also never had to reapply Blue. Definitely don't use red though.

so your saying

YMMV but:
"Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing"

That's straight from Loctite. I've never dealt with purple, but I've also never had to reapply Blue. Definitely don't use red though.

thanks
So your ssying you can break the bond/resdjust and not apply more product?

 

[scourgeofgod]

Csn you break the bond fairly easily for readjustment? Whats the set time?

so your saying

thanks
So your ssying you can break the bond/resdjust and not apply more product?

It's supposed to work that way, yes. I've never used it on a bass but I have used it for adjustment screws on paintball guns, works fine under high air pressure and the shock of sustained automatic firing, screw still turns but only when I want it to. If you're worried though you can try the purple stuff first, but I've never used it and I'm unsure of how it works.

 

[Handz Solow]

It's supposed to work that way, yes. I've never used it on a bass but I have used it for adjustment screws on paintball guns, works fine under high air pressure and the shock of sustained automatic firing, screw still turns but only when I want it to. If you're worried though you can try the purple stuff first, but I've never used it and I'm unsure of how it works.

Thanks for the info

 

[ggunn]

Youve gotta learn to adjust your own truss/saddles to settings that work for You. Everyone slaps/plucks /taps differently. use factory guidelines and experiment.
Unless its a valuble vintage insturment or You arent good wiyh your hands in which case i dont think youd be playing bass. I enjoy working on my insturments.
Unless you wanna keep paying for setups everytime the weasther
Changes.

The only time I need to adjust anything on my basses is when I change strings I check the intonation. Unless I change types of string I very seldom have to adjust it. I don't see any effect from weather changes; the weather is pretty much always the same indoors where I do most of my playing.