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think I might try it...whats there to loose huh??
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I was told by a reputable luthier here in South Jersey that his fix for something like that is to put new frets in with wider inserts. He said this has the result of forcing the neck back from the front thereby getting more truss rod relief with out using a shim because the wider tangs have the effect of spreading the fingerboard back the opposite way
I can't tell you if this works or not and that this is what I was told
If in fact this method is reliable maybe you should at least run the idea by your repair guys and see what he says
As I said. I have no idea what the result would be but the luthier I spoke to is indeed a grad of that school in the southwest of which I forgot the name but it's a pretty prestigious school and I have seen and experienced some of his work and it is superb to say the least
May be with investigating ... Know what I mean?
TWDR:View attachment 852196
I had the neck on my 57 JV Precision done.
I use heavy flatwounds with a high action, so the neck of my bass being flatter than the standard C neck shape over the years took the punishment.
I was told this flatter neck profile was discontinued in favour of the new more rounded out C shape becoming standard???
The neck was removed, tuners, string guide and nut removed.
The truss rod had extra washers added, the neck pocket was slightly carved out, as was the heel, to tilt the neck back to counter the strings tension.
The neck was steamed and some pressure used to help straighten the neck. This was the dangerous part of it as if the skunk stripped popped the neck was done for.
The neck then had wider frets put in, again to help counter the strings tension.
All this took about three months, the steamer treatmeats was about 7 weeks, the pressure being applied in stages so as not to damage the neck.
Freeing the truss rod was a couple of weeks of tweeking
The truss rod was well oiled, all hardware put back on, neck refitted, strings back on.
End result was success, the bass plays great and the neck feels as good as ever.
I have now relented and use lighters strings 110s rather than 120s, and after ten years the neck is still stable.
One option suggested was to rout out the skunk strip, ad a new truss rod and replace the strip, either with stronger wood, or metal such as stainless steel or titanium and refinish to suit.
Or rout a channel either side of the skunk strip, add the strips there to help reinforce the neck, then refinish to suit, so in effect three strips rather than one.
Here are some pictures of her, she shows the scars of a heavy gigging life, survived fires, road smashes, swimming pools, rain and snow, but every mark on her is a memory to me and the things we got up to.
I can say that when i took her in to get the truss rod fixed, i thought it would done while i waited.
When told it could take up to 12 weeks to fix her i left feeling physically sick.
Later that week i done my first gig without her in over 15 years and it was a surreal experience as my amp (Ampeg Combo) which i had used for all of her gigs, and never gave me any trouble, would not work...and to cut a long story short, it was sent in for repair and came back to me the day after i got the bass back.
This is why you shouldn't post technical stuff at midnight with a child sick with rotavirus and no sleep in a couple days. I did have to shim that neck, but that issue was identified before I set the relief. I misremembered things.
Mea culpa.
Dang, man. Not sure what the exasperated "finally" is about. It not like I (or this thread) had pages of adamant insistence that shims do solve the problem. Nonetheless, I'm glad it was cathartic for you.