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What's in your rack?

That was my guess, wasn't sure though. I may end up getting one, but would probably be better off just velcroing a power strip in there since it serves the same purpose :hiding:

Pretty much. However, if you have a few different units in your rack, having a single, front-mounted switch to power the whole thing is kinda convenient. My choice to go with a power strip was more about weight than function or cost.
 
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Setup 1

Furman PL PLUS Series II/Power Strip
dbx 160a
Thunderfunk TFB550-B

Setup 2

dbx 160a
Thunderfunk TFB550-B
 
8 space SKB:

1. Furman PL-8 power conditioner with lights.
2. Tubeworks real tube II rt-924 preamp
3. Yamaha PB-1 preamp (I either use one preamp or the other, or I run the tubeworks instrument level out into the pb-1)
4. Peavey Kosmos
5. BBE sonic maximizer 362NR
6. Peavey GPS 1500 amp (2 space)



And truth be told I could get along very well with just 1 pre and 1 amp...

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it 'alters' the sound a bit, basically giving you a bit more high and bit more low, with each adjustable, with bass guitar not much really - I think they are mostly designed for full mixes (I tried it with my stereo and it was impressive), but mine also has the NR which is a noise reduction that can take out hiss or hum or whatnot (my tube pre has a little of that and it gets rid of it...)
 
Furman power conditioner
MarkBass LMII
Yamaha PB-1-preamp
Alesis 3630-comp
BBE-Bmax-preamp
power amp depends on the gig but 1 of the following
Peavey DPC 1000
Peavey DPC 1400
Crest 8001

I switch between the LMII and both preamps depending on the gig and what I feel like.
 
it 'alters' the sound a bit, basically giving you a bit more high and bit more low, with each adjustable, with bass guitar not much really - I think they are mostly designed for full mixes (I tried it with my stereo and it was impressive), but mine also has the NR which is a noise reduction that can take out hiss or hum or whatnot (my tube pre has a little of that and it gets rid of it...)

Thanks. Sounds like it serves the same purpose as a graphic EQ or something, maybe a little less customizable.
 
I don't have anything in a rack right now, but here I do have a 3U rack bag. If I put stuff in it, it would be:

Kustom Groove 1200 (2U)
Odyssey Werklight 3000 (1U)

The Werklight is pointless because I don't have enough gear racked to take advantage of the powerstrip. It's also way too shallow to be usable in my 3U bag (my amp is too deep to allow me to reach back there). It does look cool, though. Their are a few colors and it can fade between colors. It doesn't really help me see the amp in the dark as much as I would have liked.

Once I get my Carvin B1500 (arriving this weekend!), I'll put it into my 3U rack bag. That'll fill the entire bag. I don't really like the rack bags so I'd like to get one of those racks through Ear Candy Cabs. I'd get a 6U in white tolex. Then I could arrange it like this:

Werklight 3000 (1U)
A rackmount tuner (1U)
A filler panel (vented) (1U)
Carvin B1500 (3U)
 
I'm curious, what are the necessities to have in your amp rack? I just bought a 5 space gator rack bag and am not sure what I should put in it. Right now it's just got my EA iAmp. What three or four things are at the top of your list?

At the bottom of the rack....there is a QSC PLX 1804....on top of that there is an Eden Navigator Preamp....on top of that there is a Korg DTR-01 tuner and then a juice-goose power distro module with front-mount rack lights.

Thats all folks.
rack1.jpg
 
please elaborate. how does it affect the timbre?

The way BBE explains it is that it alligns your high and low frequencies so that they hit your speakers together, adding tightness and punch.

I do believe that the low contour and process knobs (lows/highs) do add a bump at certain frequencies, but I'm not sure without researching it.

They also state that it will make your rig sound like a blanket was removed from in front of the speakers.

To me, that statement is true. Once installed in the rig, and with the knobs simply placed at noon, you can really hear a difference when you engage/remove the process. Makes the sound tighter, restores harmonic content, and overall clarity.

Sonic Maximizers are the type of gear that is either loved or hated, not alot of in the middle.

ETA - looked up the specs on the 882i - it states that it boosts at 5kHz, and at 50Hz. Not sure if it is the same for all models.

Also - copied this from the BBE website:

"The 482i Sonic Maximizer restores an audio signals natural brilliance and clarity by the use of two primary functions. First it adjusts a signal’s phase relationships between it’s low, mid and high frequencies while progressively adding longer delay times to lower frequencies, this creates a kind of “mirror curve created by the speaker neutralizing its phase distortion. Secondly the Sonic Maximizer augments higher and lower frequencies; loudspeakers tend to be less efficient in their extreme treble and bass ranges. The end result is a dynamic program-driven restoration without the ear fatigue that is normally experienced with the use of equalizers or exciters"