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What's On Your Workbench?

#2,181
Currently on my desk at work, but soon to be on my workbench.......PLANER RESTORATION!
20200630_095013.jpg 20200630_095028.jpg 20200630_095044_HDR.jpg
The #4 Stanley seems to have a loose tote (I'm still learning all the names for the parts) and the handle clearly needs a refinish. The depth adjustment is locked up, probably needs a good WD40 soaking. I'm hoping I can clean this thing up and put it to use.

As for the little guy, appears to be a Stanley Block Plane and looks to be in roughly the same shape as the #4. On the plus side, the bodies look good, no major pitting, just some surface rust.

Any and all suggestions on restoration of these welcome. :thumbsup: :cool:
 
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#2,182
TerribleTim68 said:
Currently on my desk at work, but soon to be on my workbench.......PLANER RESTORATION!
View attachment 3887277 View attachment 3887280 View attachment 3887281
The #4 Stanley seems to have a loose tote (I'm still learning all the names for the parts) and the handle clearly needs a refinish. The depth adjustment is locked up, probably needs a good WD40 soaking. I'm hoping I can clean this thing up and put it to use.

As for the little guy, appears to be a Stanley Block Plane and looks to be in roughly the same shape as the #4. On the plus side, the bodies look good, no major pitting, just some surface rust.

Any and all suggestions on restoration of these welcome. :thumbsup: :cool:
Click to expand...

My good friend Jim is a long-time tool guy. He restores and collects planes and all kinds of cool old hand-tools. I'l talk with him - he probably knows some good on-line resources for information related.
 
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#2,183
JIO said:
My good friend Jim is a long-time tool guy. He restores and collects planes and all kinds of cool old hand-tools. I'l talk with him - he probably knows some good on-line resources for information related.
Click to expand...
Much appreciated. I did see a couple decent YouTube vids on cleaning them up and removing rust, sanding the body back to a workable surface and all that. One of them mentioned a wax they coated the body with after that so it don't rust again, but they didn't say what the actual product was or where to get it. So any info on that will help too.
I'm debating sanding down the tote and handle and refinishing with tru-oil since I already have that on hand. Probably look much better than the black paint.
 
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#2,184
TerribleTim68 said:
Much appreciated. I did see a couple decent YouTube vids on cleaning them up and removing rust, sanding the body back to a workable surface and all that. One of them mentioned a wax they coated the body with after that so it don't rust again, but they didn't say what the actual product was or where to get it. So any info on that will help too.
I'm debating sanding down the tote and handle and refinishing with tru-oil since I already have that on hand. Probably look much better than the black paint.
Click to expand...

Yah, he usually doesn't paint anything, instead doing as you are planning - stripping the paint and oiling the wood.
 
#2,186
Small update:
The "Distilled Vinegar" trick to remove rust is amazing! I poured some in a glass container, dropped the parts in and left it alone for a few hours and the rust literally fell off. I have readjusted the #4 body because I wasn't able to fully submerge it, so there's a distinct "shoreline" where the vinegar was and the rust literally fell off in a perfectly straight line at that point. So we'll check back after work today and see how it's looking, but yeah, super impressed thus far.
 
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#2,194
HaMMerHeD said:
Go bar deck?
Click to expand...

Ding ding ding we have a winner! The thing with the screws in the first photo is a radius dish. I've been trying to avoid paying $150+ for a pair of radius dishes but I've been stuck on how to make one at home without a big mess (MDF dust) or a lot of time/effort. I saw this idea on another site - you stick a bunch of shims of appropriate thicknesses to a piece of 3/4" MDF and then screw a piece of hardboard on top of the shims. The thickness and location of the shims is such that the hardoard is pulled down into a smooth dish shape. Pretty smart. Took about an hour and a half to make four of them (two each at 12' and 24' radius) I made two pairs so I can leave sandpaper glued to one pair and use the other pair in the deck when clamping braces to tops and backs. Plus another 10 minutes to stick the threaded rod in some other pieces of MDF to make the deck itself.

Now I can build acoustics with radiused tops and backs like the big boys! :hyper::bassist: Just have to make some clamp sticks for the deck. I may try the traditional bendy rod type, but I saw another idea I like - use sticks of 1/2" PVC pipe with a compression spring stuck in one end. Seems like it would be more stable, but I've never done this before so what do I know?
 
#2,200
Working on getting a bunch of things at the moment, but couldn’t help but mock this one up.

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My first 5 piece neck; Roasted figured maple and Macassar ebony stringers. Macassar ebony fretboard cut from the same piece as the stringers.

Body is Roasted Alder.

Pickup is a Fishman Fluence Mike Inez Sugnature. Controls will be volume (push pull for the 2 voice settings) Bass/Treble. It’s positioned right in the middle of a P-Bass and MM.

Topping it off with a NOS Badass II bridge I bought from Roger Sadowsky almost a year ago.

I might be holding onto this one for myself lol.
 
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