Yes, how depends on how handy you are and/or how deep your pockets are.I don't feel like doing much with it until I can straighten the neck. Can a free-floating truss rod issue be fixed?
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Yes, how depends on how handy you are and/or how deep your pockets are.I don't feel like doing much with it until I can straighten the neck. Can a free-floating truss rod issue be fixed?
lol, that's not a bad idea!
Are you so enamored with it's "imitation P-Bass"looks that you are willing to spend the $ to upgrade it?I recently acquired a weird Blade 1 bass, made in Korea some time in the '90s, P-bass copy. It feels nice, plays well. But the pickups are junk, the input jack is junk, and the nut is chipped. I keep it around just in case I break a string, which I have yet to do (knock on wood).
I've put the bass on CL for cheap, but no one seems interested, as it's a no-namer really. So I'm pondering now if it's worth upgrading. An EMG Geezer P should fit nicely, and would solve the pickup/input jack issue. I could try a precut Tusq nut, maybe even replace the bridge if something will fit.
But I wonder if this bass is worth it...if I'd be better off, say, grabbing a cheap Fender MIM and modding that. How have you guys decided this issue?
Are you so enamored with it's "imitation P-Bass"looks that you are willing to spend the $ to upgrade it?
Or do you want the real thing?
There's your answer!Really shouldn't cost too much though!Nice snark bruh! I have the real thing. 2005 American Deluxe P, the one with the humbucker in the bridge. I swapped out the stock P pickup with Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounds. Fantastic bass. The Blade has always been a back-up thing, and at the moment a platform for tinkering with. Also, I don't have any passive basses - my Fender has an active 18-volt pre and my Warwick Corvette ProLine is active/passive (sounds like butt passive) - so at this point I'm interested in setting it up nicely as a passive P.
There's your answer!Really shouldn't cost too much though!