Which string scale for my Pbass

[Sparkl]

Hey guys!

Having a weird dilemma I never had before in over 15 years of playing bass.

Spotted a set of GHS precision flats in the local music store I really want to try. Thing is, they only had the long scale + (38'') which proved to be too long at the 4th string (the silky winding goes completely beyond the tuner for approximately 1/2 an inch or so).

GHS flats are offered in couple lengths with numbers off of my head:

Universal long (37.25) medium (35.5 IIRC) and the shortest one, can't remember.

Are these numbers measuring string length or bass scale? I am assuming the latter since there is no such thing as a 38'' scale bass AFAIK. But!

If this is the case, then the universal long scale will probably just be able to wrap the silk around the tuner while the medium will obviously be too short.

Obviously I need the universal long scale. Can anyone confirm that the silk winding goes around the E string tuner nicely?

Thanks!

 

[GIBrat51]

GHS strings always seem to run long, in my experience; no matter what instrument they're for. Their regular banjo strings, for example are actually long enough for a long scale banjo - which makes them really long. I know; I have one of the stupid things, and strings for it are... hard... to find. If you want to be sure about what fits on your bass, you can measure it from the nut to wherever the ball ends go. Then, go to the sticky posts at the top of the Strings Forum here. There are a couple of posts there with pretty much all the bass strings listed by "speaking length"; from the ball end to where either the silk at the tuner end starts, or where the string starts to taper. Don't be shocked at all the variation between strings of the same "scale" length. String companies like to go their own merry way in a lot of things.. Just look for the ones that fit your bass the best. And, as the owner of 24 of the things, I can attest to the fact that bass companies like to go their own merry way a lot of times, too. That distance from nut to ball end on a bass can vary an awful lot, too... However, unless the tuner posts on your bass are small, most flat wound strings will tolerate the speaking part of the string going around the tuner post some. Just be careful when you do it. Yeah, it looks unsightly, but it will work. Sometimes, if you really, really want those strings on your bass? Well... you gotta do what you gotta do...

 

[Yosbank]

GHS strings always seem to run long, in my experience; no matter what instrument they're for. Their regular banjo strings, for example are actually long enough for a long scale banjo - which makes them really long. I know; I have one of the stupid things, and strings for it are... hard... to find. If you want to be sure about what fits on your bass, you can measure it from the nut to wherever the ball ends go. Then, go to the sticky posts at the top of the Strings Forum here. There are a couple of posts there with pretty much all the bass strings listed by "speaking length"; from the ball end to where either the silk at the tuner end starts, or where the string starts to taper. Don't be shocked at all the variation between strings of the same "scale" length. String companies like to go their own merry way in a lot of things.. Just look for the ones that fit your bass the best. And, as the owner of 24 of the things, I can attest to the fact that bass companies like to go their own merry way a lot of times, too. That distance from nut to ball end on a bass can vary an awful lot, too... However, unless the tuner posts on your bass are small, most flat wound strings will tolerate the speaking part of the string going around the tuner post some. Just be careful when you do it. Yeah, it looks unsightly, but it will work. Sometimes, if you really, really want those strings on your bass? Well... you gotta do what you gotta do...

+1
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[jd56hawk]

I have these on my L2000...length is just fine.

 

[Sparkl]

I have these on my L2000...length is just fine.

Thanks for the photo. Yes, apparent from the pic, the wining just barely fits the length. My Thomastik's fit on the tuner perfectly though. Is this their regular long scale or something else?

As soon as I get to my home computer I'll upload the picture of long scale + precision flats on my pbass.

 

[Sparkl]

GHS strings always seem to run long, in my experience; no matter what instrument they're for. Their regular banjo strings, for example are actually long enough for a long scale banjo - which makes them really long. I know; I have one of the stupid things, and strings for it are... hard... to find. If you want to be sure about what fits on your bass, you can measure it from the nut to wherever the ball ends go. Then, go to the sticky posts at the top of the Strings Forum here. There are a couple of posts there with pretty much all the bass strings listed by "speaking length"; from the ball end to where either the silk at the tuner end starts, or where the string starts to taper. Don't be shocked at all the variation between strings of the same "scale" length. String companies like to go their own merry way in a lot of things.. Just look for the ones that fit your bass the best. And, as the owner of 24 of the things, I can attest to the fact that bass companies like to go their own merry way a lot of times, too. That distance from nut to ball end on a bass can vary an awful lot, too... However, unless the tuner posts on your bass are small, most flat wound strings will tolerate the speaking part of the string going around the tuner post some. Just be careful when you do it. Yeah, it looks unsightly, but it will work. Sometimes, if you really, really want those strings on your bass? Well... you gotta do what you gotta do...

Thanks for the tip! I had a feeling that things aren't as "universal" as one would think. Since I always mainly used Daddario, Thomastik, Elixir, RotoSound, Dean Markley, Ernie Ball, DR, Lakland and other strings their long scale didn't seem to be a problem. All of them sit nicely on the tuner.

In my particular case with the precision flats, the speaking part of the string would end up wrapping around approx 1/3 of the tuner circumference, which does seem to be quite a lot. I get a weird feeling that the string might snap in the least expected moment (gigging). I have read that Fender type tuners aren't as harsh to the string in this specific case the way some other smaller tuners are (particularly Rickenbackers) but I wouldn't like to test this halfway through a gig honestly.

 

[Sparkl]

Here is the promised photo (the string was inserted through the bridge and held tight).

 

[Fender_Bender]

View attachment 3373625

Here is the promised photo (the string was inserted through the bridge and held tight).

It’s certainly not ideal, but you can minimize the chances of things going wrong by taking your time with the initial installation and most important of all; leave them on for good (ie not taking them on and off repeatedly).
I suppose it wouldn’t be the worst idea in the world to put a couple of small pieces of cloth medical tape or hockey tape layered on the spot on the tuner post where the initial bend occurs.

 

[jd56hawk]

Thanks for the photo. Yes, apparent from the pic, the wining just barely fits the length. My Thomastik's fit on the tuner perfectly though. Is this their regular long scale or something else?

As soon as I get to my home computer I'll upload the picture of long scale + precision flats on my pbass.

The strings in the photo I posted earlier, 3060s, are long scale...34" scale, according to the old (red) pack.

This from GHS:
WHAT IS BASS STRING WINDING LENGTH, AND WHY SHOULD I CARE?

The winding length is the distance from the ball end of the string to either the beginning of the silked end, or to where the string starts to taper at the tuning end.

Winding length is actually VERY important! Nowadays, it is common to see basses with different scale lengths, and new and creative bridges, thru-body stringing, or fanned frets, etc.. Knowing the winding length of your instrument is imperative to ensure you get the proper string for your bass, and is more important than scale length. For example: the Hofner Violin Bass is a 30" scale bass, but with the bridge, it actually requires a set of strings with at least a 34" winding length, which depending on the string brand, is considered medium scale.

To find the winding length for your instrument, measure from the ball end of the bridge to just past the nut (ideally, between the nut and the closest tuning peg to the nut). Any string with a winding length that falls within that measurement will work well. Too short and you risk having the silked/tapered end over the nut and into the first fret; too long and the "meat" of the string will wrap around the tuner, which can compromise the string. For your information, here are the winding lengths of all GHS strings.

Short Scale = 32" Winding Length
Medium Scale = 34.5" Winding Length
Standard Long Scale = 36.5" Winding Length
Universal Long Scale = 37.25" Winding Length
Long Scale Plus / Extra Long Scale = 38" Winding Length

And here are the current tapewounds so they must be universal long scale.

 

[Sparkl]

The strings in the photo I posted earlier, 3060s, are long scale...34" scale, according to the old (red) pack.

This from GHS:
WHAT IS BASS STRING WINDING LENGTH, AND WHY SHOULD I CARE?

The winding length is the distance from the ball end of the string to either the beginning of the silked end, or to where the string starts to taper at the tuning end.

Winding length is actually VERY important! Nowadays, it is common to see basses with different scale lengths, and new and creative bridges, thru-body stringing, or fanned frets, etc.. Knowing the winding length of your instrument is imperative to ensure you get the proper string for your bass, and is more important than scale length. For example: the Hofner Violin Bass is a 30" scale bass, but with the bridge, it actually requires a set of strings with at least a 34" winding length, which depending on the string brand, is considered medium scale.

To find the winding length for your instrument, measure from the ball end of the bridge to just past the nut (ideally, between the nut and the closest tuning peg to the nut). Any string with a winding length that falls within that measurement will work well. Too short and you risk having the silked/tapered end over the nut and into the first fret; too long and the "meat" of the string will wrap around the tuner, which can compromise the string. For your information, here are the winding lengths of all GHS strings.

Short Scale = 32" Winding Length
Medium Scale = 34.5" Winding Length
Standard Long Scale = 36.5" Winding Length
Universal Long Scale = 37.25" Winding Length
Long Scale Plus / Extra Long Scale = 38" Winding Length

And here are the current tapewounds so they must be universal long scale.

Thank you very much! So there is ankther length they call standard long scale apart from universal long scale. 36.5 seems to be just the perfect fit for a p or jbass yet for some reason they don't offer this length with precision flats. Dammit GHS!!

I will try my luck with universal long scales and see where it goes from there. If the silky part still goes beyond the tuner I will consider the options as explained by @Fender_Bender

Thabks for the tips guys, appreciated!!

Edit: sorry for all the typos, no matter what I do I just can't get used to the keyboard on my new phone.

 

[jd56hawk]

Thank you very much! So there is ankther length they call standard long scale apart from universal long scale. 36.5 seems to be just the perfect fit for a p or jbass yet for some reason they don't offer this length with precision flats. Dammit GHS!!

I will try my luck with universal long scales and see where it goes from there. If the silky part still goes beyond the tuner I will consider the options as explained by @Fender_Bender

Thabks for the tips guys, appreciated!!

Edit: sorry for all the typos, no matter what I do I just can't get used to the keyboard on my new phone.

You're welcome.
I have a spare set of the red-pack tapewounds so I'm guessing mine are Universal Long Scale.

 

[micguy]

This is one of those secrets that shouldn't be so secret. I have string through holes on all my basses on at least the lowest string (typically the E string, but I keep a bass tuned in D standard, so there it's a D string) - with a Fender style headstock and strings that are designed to work OK with a 35 inch scale, you end up with the fat part of the lowest string wound on the tuner. Running the lowest string through the body eats up an additional inch or so (depends a bit on the bridge geometry) which neatly solves the issue. The other strings - no problems; they can be top loaded.

 

[jd56hawk]

This is one of those secrets that shouldn't be so secret. I have string through holes on all my basses on at least the lowest string (typically the E string, but I keep a bass tuned in D standard, so there it's a D string) - with a Fender style headstock and strings that are designed to work OK with a 35 inch scale, you end up with the fat part of the lowest string wound on the tuner. Running the lowest string through the body eats up an additional inch or so (depends a bit on the bridge geometry) which neatly solves the issue. The other strings - no problems; they can be top loaded.

Some people recommend against going though the body with flatwounds or tapewounds. Have you had any problems doing it?

 

[micguy]

Some people recommend against going though the body with flatwounds or tapewounds. Have you had any problems doing it?

Never had a problem with tapewounds or flats through the body as....I don't use them.

Am I wrong in thinking that early P basses strung through the body? How did we get from that point (where flats through the body were all anyone did) to fearing that combo?

 

[jd56hawk]

Pretty sure the originals used string-through but Fender dropped it and reintroduced it in the mid nineties.
I use only flats and tapewounds, myself, and simply have no need to go through-the-body on my two Reverends.

 

[hieronymous]

Definitely an issue with these strings - fairly certain I've seen discussions of it, but whether they were here or elsewhere I don't remember - it was a while ago, I put a set of these on my Duck Dunn P about 6-7 years ago. I loved the strings, but that E string must've tweaked my OCD, I switched them out even though I never had a problem and had people say they didn't think it would be an issue. Here's what it looked like:

 

[nerkoids]

Never had any problems with the GHS E string, even with a 3/4 turn around the post. Unless you have the Danelectro or Hofner type bass tuning machines, it's not going to matter.

I use nothing but top-loading strings anyway.

 

[geesharp]

Some people recommend against going though the body with flatwounds or tapewounds. Have you had any problems doing it?

My Jazz bass is through-body, and I don't have any problem with a GHS Flatwound on it. A

 

[stefaniw80401]

These are the Galli JF45105 "long scale" set. The winding length is 38". They're way too long for my P-bass.

 

[michael_t]

These are the Galli JF45105 "long scale" set. The winding length is 38". They're way too long for my P-bass.
View attachment 5374173

Those look longer than 38" in winding length, the E in particular.

I've used GHS Precision Flats with 38" winding on my P bass and here's how they fit, top-loaded... Less than one full wrap of E string around the post with no issue.