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While replacing my bass strings, the nut fell off.

#5
A word of caution - if you use superglue, use only a DAB, not a whole bunch, as if you ever have to replace that nut at some time in the future, it will be a royal pain to get off if you overdo it.

But these guys are right, superglue works, titebond works (available at any hardware store). Carefully clean the nut slot and bottom of the nut, put a small amount of glue, set your nut. An hour is sufficient for superglue and two should work for Titebond (an hour may but I've seen it where an hour wasn't enough time before).
 
#6
I typically put a dab on either side on the nut, just a small dab, of super glue. An hour is way overkill for superglue set time. Maybe wood glue or elmers white glue.. super glue will set up in a matter of seconds or minutes depending on the atmosphere.

Taking all the strings off at the same time isn't a problem either. If leaving them off for extended periods, loosening the truss rod is probably a good idea.
 
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#9
berwick63 said:
I typically put a dab on either side on the nut, just a small dab, of super glue. An hour is way overkill for superglue set time. Maybe wood glue or elmers white glue.. super glue will set up in a matter of seconds or minutes depending on the atmosphere.

Taking all the strings off at the same time isn't a problem either. If leaving them off for extended periods, loosening the truss rod is probably a good idea.
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True, reasonably it shouldn't need an hour for superglue, 20 minutes is more than enough time.

I just have seen where even an hour wasn't enough for wood glue, the nut came loose in putting the strings back on, so I was giving him the hour for superglue and 2 for titebond just to be safe so that doesn't happen to him, as general rules of thumb. It's impossible really to predict exactly how long is ideal, with the white glue type stuff. Better safe than sorry and having to wait all over again. But I do agree, an hour is overkill for superglue.
 
#10
AudioOfTime said:
really, why not?
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Mostly as a joke - but really taking all the strings off at one time and not changing them just one at a time goes counter to the Fender Official post that says it just isn't penguin.

However, in this situation, it might've been a good thing because the nut fell off and who'd-a known it was loose otherwise?

So - I was just being a wise butt. It's the medications I take.
 
#12
DON'T USE SUPERGLUE!!!!

Sorry, but although it will work, at some stage down the road the nut may have to be replaced for any number of reasons. You need to use a glue that enables the nut to be easily removed. A couple of drops of Titebond or similar will do.

Or don't use glue at all - on one of my Basses string pressure is quite adequate for holding the nut on.

I learnt this the hard way with a vintage lap-steel...
 
#15
phatbass said:
DON'T USE SUPERGLUE!!!!

Sorry, but although it will work, at some stage down the road the nut may have to be replaced for any number of reasons. You need to use a glue that enables the nut to be easily removed. A couple of drops of Titebond or similar will do.

Or don't use glue at all - on one of my Basses string pressure is quite adequate for holding the nut on.

I learnt this the hard way with a vintage lap-steel...
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dang that sucks dude, so what happened to your vintage lap steel?
 
#16
Let me tell you what I'd do. I'd use whatever happened to be available at the time. If the nut slot was cut correctly, and it's at least a reasonably tight fit in there, it's probably not going anywhere, if your tuners are lined up for straight string pull. If I happened to have a hot hide glue pot next to me and already heated up, I'd use that. If not, I'd use Titebond unless I ran out, and then I'd probably go for a basic white glue. If I didn't have superglue, I'd throw an audible with the superglue, and just try to remember I'd done that, so I knew how to get it off later. At this point, I'd probably start improvising with caulk or bubble gum or something in an effort to avoid cleaning up and going to the store.

Bottom line: This is not a critical glue joint.
 
#19
phatbass said:
DON'T USE SUPERGLUE!!!!

Sorry, but although it will work, at some stage down the road the nut may have to be replaced for any number of reasons. You need to use a glue that enables the nut to be easily removed. A couple of drops of Titebond or similar will do.

Or don't use glue at all - on one of my Basses string pressure is quite adequate for holding the nut on.

I learnt this the hard way with a vintage lap-steel...
Click to expand...

You can use superglue just fine, heck think about it, superglue is used to glue in frets and eventually they need to be replaced.

The trick is don't over do it. If you put a boatload of superglue on, yeah it's going to be a REAL pain to get off there, I speak from experience having replaced a nut where someone did that, took 45 minutes to work that off, so believe me I know where you are coming from here. But as long as you don't over do it, just a dab, it should be fine.
 
#20
I never knew that so many people got glued to a toilet seat with Super Glue. It must've left a horrible mental and psychological scar to condemn it for nut work.

It will release if you know how. A little acetone and a moderate slap on the side of the nut later on if you want to remove it and it releases just fine.

SG will NOT hold in high shock areas very well at all. I've build RC aircraft firewalls with it mixed with baking powder and it forms a really tough joint - but it is brittle and gives up it's hold in a shock application especially on an inorganic bond.
 

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