Who plays with a really low action? Pics please?

[murph7489]

I think a good place to start would be like 5/64" on the low string, and 3/64" on the G or highest string...in mm that works out to be 2mm bass and just a hair above 1 on the high side..or G string

remember that is a starting point..you can set your action to whatever you like but my numbers are a good jump off point..like someone else said you may have to add a shim on the neck if you have a bolt on..to get it where you need it..if you do, use a laminate wood product..not cardboard or anything that can compress..obviously..

 

[klyph]

Cant realy understand this eccocast bridge, that has 3 screws, but has to control 4 strings, I really did try to figure out for a long time... I cant...

Dude, if you can’t figure out how to lower your bridge saddles...time for a replacement bridge. If they’re all the way down and your action is still 4mm, then tweak the tuss rod. If the neck is “almost straight” then leave the truss rod alone and shim the neck. It kind of sounds like this is where you are at. It would be really helpful to see the bridge and better pictures of the neck.

The ultimate low action is achieved by fret leveling with the neck in a similar state to being strung to tune. That is why the PLEK process is so in demand. But you’re still at least 2mm away from even thinking about that. Until you can lower the bridge saddles right down so that the strings are sitting on the frets, no amount of messing around with the neck will get you where you want to be. Get that sorted first.

 

[Mastermold]

I never measure, just go by whether it feels comfy. I also own a lot of basses and each one is unique, action varies from bass to bass.

 

[jpmcbride]

Can someone post me pics of their low action bass , so I can see how close the strings are to the fretboard? Thanks

Looking at a pic without any scale is not really they way to accomplish this. Just get a simple ruler and measure the distance between the string and frets. It doesn't really matter exactly how you do it or where exactly you measure, as long as you get a consistent way that works for you.

As an example, I like my action low. I try to set the distance from the bottom of the strings to the 12th fret at 1.5mm. This can be hard to get without fret buzz and is lower than many players like. Maybe start at 2.5mm and see how it works for you. Then adjust to your playing style.

 

[THany]

Ok. Thank you all. You are all right, its just that I only started lpaying like 3 moths ago the other bass, I think the luthier ate it (kidding, but its taking ages bc he was abroad) and I dont have anyone close t me who could fix this (already paid twice for something that wasnt good) there arent any pros around, and I just cant send it away and not play so thats why Im acting weird .
And Im not a dude,Im a dulady.
Thanx all, really.
I will pust pics for those who asked . Thanks again
P.s. I know the scale should be put behind, but I wanted you to be able to see

 

[THany]

 

[mikewalker]

That's a bizarre bridge! Fixed-radius with individual string heights NOT adjustable? Not what I would call ideal...

 

[jj.833]

From the pic it seems that the strings are bit too high at the nut. Can be helped with a file. Trouble is that if you file the string groove too deep, it cannot be repaired, the nut has to be replaced. So if you do it, be extremely careful. Do it with strings on, just loose the string you're working on, move it aside, file few times, then put the string back, tune and check. There's a bit more to it; read about how it should be done before you start.

As for bridge, I think you can screw the bridge out, see from the bottom whether there are options to raise it, and put it back. I guess there's some plate than can be lifted, and it is well possible it's rusty. No harm can be done if you tighten the screws reasonably. Also, a manual can be usually found on the net.

Don't forget the right sequence: first, set the truss rod. Then the nut. Then the bridge height.

 

[UntitledUser]

I think that using the ruler to measure strings distance can be confusing (because difficult to read in a precise way, in my opinion)
I glued with the SuperAttak, multiple 0,50mm + 1,00mm picks by Dunlop to form a 2,5 and a 3mm flat "big feeler gauge".
Specifically Dunlop Tortex because the are perfectly flat on their surface.

Then I put the 3mm glued pick under the big strings at 12th fret, if the string raises/touches a bit when I put it under it is too low (for me). So in this case, I raise the saddle, until this glued pick fits without touching, that means that the distance is 3mm.
The same but using the 2,5mm on the thin strings side.
[this should be done after checking the neck relief/truss rod]

Doing so, I discovered that, using a ruler everything seems "higher" (so you are tempted to lower further the action when is already ok), bacause easily the reading can be wrong.
So what in the real world is 3mm, on the ruler seems 5mm because of perspective/optical/positioning issues.

In my point of view once you avoid both too high and too low action, the bass can be used well without compromises of any kind regarding the playability. Never chase the "lowest of the lowest" race.

 

[THany]

From the pic it seems that the strings are bit too high at the nut. Can be helped with a file. Trouble is that if you file the string groove too deep, it cannot be repaired, the nut has to be replaced. So if you do it, be extremely careful. Do it with strings on, just loose the string you're working on, move it aside, file few times, then put the string back, tune and check. There's a bit more to it; read about how it should be done before you start.

As for bridge, I think you can screw the bridge out, see from the bottom whether there are options to raise it, and put it back. I guess there's some plate than can be lifted, and it is well possible it's rusty. No harm can be done if you tighten the screws reasonably. Also, a manual can be usually found on the net.

Don't forget the right sequence: first, set the truss rod. Then the nut. Then the bridge height.

You are right! Bc I gave it to someone who thought he knew how to fix it and he made the nut higher! Now its worse than it was! Ugh

 

[THany]

I think that using the ruler to measure strings distance can be confusing (because difficult to read in a precise way, in my opinion)
I glued with the SuperAttak, multiple 0,50mm + 1,00mm picks by Dunlop to form a 2,5 and a 3mm flat "big feeler gauge".
Specifically Dunlop Tortex because the are perfectly flat on their surface.

Then I put the 3mm glued pick under the big strings at 12th fret, if the string raises/touches a bit when I put it under it is too low (for me). So in this case, I raise the saddle, until this glued pick fits without touching, that means that the distance is 3mm.
The same but using the 2,5mm on the thin strings side.
[this should be done after checking the neck relief/truss rod]

Doing so, I discovered that, using a ruler everything seems "higher" (so you are tempted to lower further the action when is already ok), bacause easily the reading can be wrong.
So what in the real world is 3mm, on the ruler seems 5mm because of perspective/optical/positioning issues.

In my point of view once you avoid both too high and too low action, the bass can be used well without compromises of any kind regarding the playability. Never chase the "lowest of the lowest" race.

I play only fot 3 months, but honestly, I dont use a ruler, I just did to show you guys. I know its to high for my starting/female fingers. I played another bass that was lower, and this one was lower but someone "fixed" it for me. I dont know why, but its the 2nd person I gave a bass to who thought he knew how to set up, I have found I can do it better by myself, just have to have some more knowledge. The neck is almost streight, adjusting the truss rod doesnt help. I guess it has to do with the nut and bridge ( that is old and maybe not too functionable)
But I just love this bass

 

[mouthmw]

As a rule, I go around 1.5 mm on my P bass on the 12 fret, neck straight as it allows it.
My Stingray is slightly lower at 1.25 mm to 1.00 mm (E to G). I'd say that's low action, but I have zero issues digging in, playing hard or playing with a soft touch, whatever the song and the spur of moment requires.

 

[Nashrakh]

From the pic it seems that the strings are bit too high at the nut. Can be helped with a file. Trouble is that if you file the string groove too deep, it cannot be repaired, the nut has to be replaced. So if you do it, be extremely careful. Do it with strings on, just loose the string you're working on, move it aside, file few times, then put the string back, tune and check. There's a bit more to it; read about how it should be done before you start.

I concur with this assessment. Nut looks too high. Be very careful when filing - I've done that on my most recent purchase and ended up cutting 3 out of 6 slots a tiny bit too deep. A piece of paper stuffed into the slot to raise the string helps in a pinch, but it's certainly not ideal.

But however, filing the slots down will make an immediate improvement - you'll find that you need much less left hand strength when fretting, especially in the lower register.

 

[kodiakblair]

@THany

Here's the manual for your bridge, it's the Accu-Cast B IV

Invalid Link Removed

Since the saddle plate is set for the radius I wonder if something has been jammed under it,previous owner could have lost the "under plate" and substituted another material.

 

[THany]

@THany

Here's the manual for your bridge, it's the Accu-Cast B IV

Invalid Link Removed

Since the saddle plate is set for the radius I wonder if something has been jammed under it,previous owner could have lost the "under plate" and substituted another material.

I know. I saw the manual. I just dont understand ... there are 3 screws for adjusting 4 strings height, I dont understand what controls what, tried but coyldnt tell, idk, confusing to me. Anyway the bridge doesnt seem to be able to concepate the nut problrm

 

[Bill Whitehurst]

If you file the but slots, stop a bit before you thin kit is enough.
It's better to leave a little extra than to be needing a new nut.
You can always come back to it later.

Looking at the bridge pics, I don't even see and adjuster screws on the saddles.
If that is the case, you may need to file the bottom of the saddles.
That is another thing where you can take off, but you can't put it back.

 

[THany]

If you file the but slots, stop a bit before you thin kit is enough.
It's better to leave a little extra than to be needing a new nut.
You can always come back to it later.

Looking at the bridge pics, I don't even see and adjuster screws on the saddles.
If that is the case, you may need to file the bottom of the saddles.
That is another thing where you can take off, but you can't put it back.

You cant see the adjusting acrews, there are inside, you reach them with a 1.5 mm allen

 

[UntitledUser]

I know. I saw the manual. I just dont understand ... there are 3 screws for adjusting 4 strings height, I dont understand what controls what, tried but coyldnt tell, idk, confusing to me. Anyway the bridge doesnt seem to be able to concepate the nut problrm

3 points [not on the same line] define a plane.
So I think that you can tilt the bridge as a single element like a plane, so in both direction. {transversal and longitudinal}
So if you turn the 2 aligned screws on the side of the same amount of turns you raise&lower the bridge in trasversal without tilting longitudinal to the neck. The side with 1 screw is just easy, it moves only the tranversal position of the bridge.

Consider that the famous gibson les paul {maybe the most used guitar in the world, together with stratocaster} has a bridge with only 2 points Aka TuneOMatic.
This gave no problems to musician that earns million of dollars using the standard les paul, so I think that those 3 screw points would be usable and more than effective.

 

[Oobly]

Ibanez sr800 bridge height adjustment help??

So, according to the other thread, the action was too high before and you had it adjusted and now it's too high and you want to lower it? May have to adjust the nut as well as the bridge to get it where you want it (but be careful if you file down the nut slots).

To lower the bridge, turn all three of the little hex screws anti-clockwise. That will lower the plate that all the bridge pieces are resting on. (Can think of it like a stool or chair with three legs. Shorten the appropriate legs to get it the height and angle you want)

Here's a pic of the action on my early 2000's SR506 (with B string pulled out the way). Just under 2mm at 17th fret with TI jazz flat strings. Easy to fret, no buzz unless I really dig in, then can get a nice buzzy "growl".

I set the neck relief to be very slight (0.3mm or so I guess), then adjust the bridge height to get the desired action (nut is already good). The order is important! Neck relief (truss rod), then nut, then bridge. Otherwise you can end up going in circles, continually adjusting and never quite getting it where you want it.

 

[Oobly]

Also, if you turn them and the bridge doesn't go down any further, it could be one of two things:

1. Either the underplate is too thick or has been shimmed.
2. Or the neck has been shimmed so it has an angle to it (usually done by inserting a thin piece of card or wood between the neck and body, requires removing the neck from the guitar).

Either of those could have been done by a person asked to increase the action previously. I notice it looks like it's already set quite low (the intonation screws appear to be angled down), so the second option may be more likely.