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Who's been wanting a Naimish Bridge ??

#21
REAPER52 said:
Oh by the way what colors are there going to be- Hopefully Black....
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fivestringgecko said:
....Specifically, I'm wondering about color options (I'd be after gold), what kind of routing is required and if string-through-body is an option. Pete mentioned your 5 string bridges are standard Fender spacing... that's 19mm?

You know, stuff like that. :)

5sg.
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Finishes will be matte black, matte gold, and matte clear hard Anodized. You can see the black and the clear in an earlier post in this thread. I'm working on a picture of the gold finish, it's going to take a while.

There is no routing required. However, (Now stay with me here, I tend to ramble. Especially when I'm trying to be brief), Mr. Fender will forever be a genius in my mind. Simply look at the original Precision and Jazz Bass designs. Not convinced? How about Music Man instruments? Still not convinced? Then how about G&L? Nuff said.

The G&L saddle lock bridge design is the culmination of a lifetime dedicated to the production of solid body electric stringed instruments. He understood, as well or better than anyone, the instrument as more than the sum of it's parts. Leo Fender knew how important the coupling of string to body is to the final character of the instrument. The most obvious reflection of this is in the evolution of his designs.

Now with that being said, I feel the G&L saddle lock might be overkill. That big old hunk of metal on the bottom of those bridges, which is sunk deep into the body of the instrument, does exactly what it was designed to do. It couples string and instrument in rock solid fashion. I believe the same or similar results can be achieved by placing a bridge down into a very shallow route in the body. (As opposed to having it mounted on top of the finished surface of the guitar) Check out the KSM web site. I'm not alone in this belief.

There is currently another thread here on TB in which I briefly discuss how the Naimishbridge does not really need a conventional base plate at all. The two piece saddle/anvil assembly can sit directly on the surface of the guitar. Better still, have it sit in a shallow routed groove in the surface. All you need then is a back rail for the intonation screw.

Here's a link to the other thread I mentioned. Oops! must have been thinking of something else I wrote today. I don't see any mention of the sans base plate explanation over there. Oh well, you'll be able to glean some useful information anyway.

O.K. Have I managed to answer your questions? If not or if you have any more, please fire away. And thanks for your interest.

Rick
 
#22
Oh yeah, I forgot to address the five string spacing issue.

Now, please, before you rush to respond. I've spent countless hours scouring the TB forums to find the exact string spacing on the late model Fender fivers. There seems to be no consensus. I've sent an email to Fender. I do not expect to hear from them, but sometimes desperate needs require desperate action.

I'm aware that the late model Fender bridges afford the user adjustable string spacing. What I'm after is the exact distance between the center grooves on the saddle pieces. Another way to determine this would be to measure the exact distance, center to center, between the string ferrules on the back of the instrument. Ideally this should be done with a dial caliper.

Also, does anyone have the exact distance between the mounting holes for the five string Fender bridges? Both MIA and MIM.

Thanks in advance.
Rick
 
#23
Here's a little copy/paste job with some relevant info from The Other Thread.

_________________________________________________

O.K. A little update. This is the latest info I have available. If you need any further details please don't hesitate to to send me an email, or post right here in the thread.
_________________________________________________

I appreciate your interest in the Naimishbridge, but most of all I appreciate your time. I'll take as little of it as possible.

Spacing on the 4 string will be 19mm, or 0.750". Spacing on the 5 string, as far as I can tell you at this point, will be slightly less. My best guess, as you read this, is 18mm, or 0.710". I'll have an exact figure for you by the end of the week.

Now the four and five string models with the string through body only option will be drop in replacements for made in America Fenders.

If you want the top load only model you'll have to make some choices. You can buy a drop in for a MIA, (3 mounting holes), or a MIM, (5 mounting holes). However, I will not guarantee that these base plates will not pull up from the surface of the guitar. This is due to the increased leverage exerted because the back rail on Naimishbridge is considerably further from the mounting holes compared to the stock Fender bridge.

I also have 4 and 5 string top load models available with mounting holes closer to the back rail. This, of course, will require drilling on the Fender model guitars, but I guarantee these models against pulling up.

As to the six string models, I currently have no designs available. However, due to the number of inquiries I've received in regards to bridges for six strings, it's something I'm forced to consider now as opposed to down the road. As for right now I just don't see the feasibility of it unless people are willing to pay a premium. (As Pete Skjold has pointed out in the threads, all of these bridges are extremely expensive to design and manufacture). And seeing as how the cost is my biggest draw back at this point, I just don't see it happening in this production run. I'm having enough trouble securing the one hundred,(100), orders that will make this batch of bridges happen.

Thanks again to everyone.

Rick
 
#29
NickyBass said:
Are you planning on ultimately using it for the cherry bass?
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I was convinced I'd go with a brass bridge, but I've always been very curious about Rick's design. I'll try the 4 string bridge on my Fender. If I like it then I'll try and convince Rick to make me a 6 string bridge. It's going to be costly, but I'm willing to pay the price for this next bass if I like it enough.
 
#31
Hey kids....just wanted to pipe in here. I got the bridge on my J bass. A few things....one, it's going back to Rick. There's something up with this particular bridge and Rick's going to check it out. It rattles a bit, which he's not run into before. Also, I have come to the definitive conclusion that I prefer the sound of a brass bridge....therefore I will have a brass Naimish bridge in the future. Lastly, despite my disapointment that this one has to be sent back, I am a believer. The bass was quite resonant to begin with, that's why I bought it. However, when I installed the Naimish bridge it became much more resonant than before. I've never felt a bass resonate so much as mine does now. The bridge certainly fulfills it's intention. It's a brilliant design that is also functionally a leap forward......a few leaps forward. Well worth the funds my friends....get in line.
 
#32
REAPER52 said:
Can you make one with the 5 holes for drop in on a MIM and also the holes of the 4 string model with the hole closer to the back rail
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Hey REAPER52,
I apologize for overlooking your question. Yes I can do that. Too much Swiss cheese in the bottom of that base plate and your in danger of negating the effects of the increased contact area. Do you understand the point I'm trying to make?

Rick
 
#33
O.K. a quick update. Copied and pasted from the thread in the Luthiers Corner.

Minimum string height is 0.394". Maximum String height is 0.658". Intonation adjustment is 11/16" or 0.6875" overall.

The currently available string spacing options are:
_________________________________________18mm 0.710"
_________________________________________19mm 0.750"
_________________________________________20mm 0.787"
And what I call the Marcus Miller 5 string spacing at_____ 0.725"
I'm working on 16mm spacing for a special order and hope to have these available shortly. In this same vein, please do not hesitate to contact me regarding special designs. I'll do my best to accommodate everyone.

Colors will be Gold, Black, and Clear hard Anodized. The so called clear is considerably darker than the raw Aluminum but a very beautiful finish. And yes I'm looking into matching tuning keys and control knobs. That's going to take a while.

Now, on to the bridge without a base plate. Picture the saddle/anvil assemblies sitting flush on top of the guitar. Better yet sitting on bare wood in a shallow routed groove, or pocket, cut into the guitar just like a pick up route. The design goal of the Naimishbridge is increased surface contact area between the string saddle and the instrument. By eliminating the base plate, just like we eliminated the set screws as adjusters, we're enhancing the connection between string and instrument. We've eliminated a 0.094" thick piece of Aluminum that doesn't need to be there. We can now add this 0.094" to the half round boss on the bottom of the saddle piece yielding another 76% increase in the surface contact area.

This all makes very simple sense to me but I understand how it could be confusing to others. Again, any questions? Fire away.

Rick
 
#34
i understand your point so i ask do you think it will work -with the advantage that your bridge is made for or will it take enough away that the bridge i have will end up doing as well--- you know what i mean i might not be good at explaining will i benefit enough to make the change worth doing
 
#35
REAPER52 said:
i understand your point so i ask do you think it will work...
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If you mean drilling the four extra mounting holes, yes it will work.
REAPER52 said:
... will i benefit enough to make the change worth doing
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If you mean drilling the four extra mounting holes, no. You won't benefit from this in any way that I can see.

Now you've piqued my curiosity. Why would you want to drill four extra holes, in addition to the five existing holes? I feel like I'm overlooking the obvious here.
 
#36
The way understand it is the 5 holse are close to the string end of the bridge can cause it to pull up from the back. 2 or 3 hole closer to the back would secure it and still give you the drop in of the 5 holes that match a MMI. you said more hole might have a tone effect - i was wondering if just 2 hole would have tgat much of a noticable efffect tone wise-- the hole ib cheese thing----
 
#37
REAPER52 said:
The way understand it is the 5 holse are close to the string end of the bridge can cause it to pull up from the back. 2 or 3 hole closer to the back would secure it and still give you the drop in of the 5 holes that match a MMI. you said more hole might have a tone effect - i was wondering if just 2 hole would have tgat much of a noticable efffect tone wise-- the hole ib cheese thing----
Click to expand...
Hey REAPER52,

If I said; ...."more hole might have a tone effect"...., I apologize.

More holes will definitely affect the tone. I can't imagine there's a human being that could actually detect the change.

If you're uncertain about mounting the bridge and you simply want the drop in replacement holes to ensure proper placement and alignment you would be best served by having it professionally installed.

Rick
 
#39
Why not find someone else, rather than hang some guy out to dry that we've never met? There are always other people and options to pursue.

It's pretty unfair to claim that this one man is solely responsible for the shelving of your product.
 

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