If I was looking for a different sound using what you have and like so far. I would fool with the knobs to get something different or I might look at a different speaker cabinet for a different voice or projection.
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Will I benefit from upgrading my amp?
- Thread starter Stygian1
- Start date
I’ve never used or heard the HB amp, but if it’s anything like most them out there it should be fine. I’m using a Mesa WD800 and love it.
It's a class D amp he is using the power section in to amplify his pedal board. It’s a not-bad-budget bass amp. One may have issues with the front end, the power amp should be pretty neutral
harleybenton.com
Block-800B - Harley Benton
Power: 800 W RMS at 4 Ohm | Class D power amplifier | 4-Band EQ | Smart Compressor | DI output with pre/post and lift/ground switches | High/Low switch for active/passive bass | Mute function | Tuner output | Line input with volume control | Headphone output | FX loop | Speaker Twist speaker...
harleybenton.com
Last edited:
Sure, you’ll get that new gear rush that most people get. Then maybe G.A.S. Will raise its head.
Based on your description (going from your pedalboard to the return on the HB head), you are not even using the HB's preamp. I would expect that any differences between class D power stages will be a) subtle, and b) completely masked by all the gear your signal is passing through before it gets to the return of the HB. If you don't have any specific quality you are looking for, I would say that trying another class D power section is unlikely to give you any discernible improvement. You might just have GAS.
I`m picking up some cosmic vibes.......
I see....in the near future.....a new post stating ......NAD!!!!!
I see....in the near future.....a new post stating ......NAD!!!!!
The only reasons I replaced bass heads in the past are:
- Power (volume)
- Weight (lighter is more good)
- Size (portable is good)
- Hiss (we don’t like a hissy head)
- Fan noise (silent at practice/studio volume = good)
There have been features I’ve liked in all heads I’ve had, but haven’t missed when I’ve moved to a different head, which I’ve moved to to solve one or more of the above downsides.
Currently use two different heads which are both satisfying me. A Genzler Magdaline and a Phil Jones 800
- Power (volume)
- Weight (lighter is more good)
- Size (portable is good)
- Hiss (we don’t like a hissy head)
- Fan noise (silent at practice/studio volume = good)
There have been features I’ve liked in all heads I’ve had, but haven’t missed when I’ve moved to a different head, which I’ve moved to to solve one or more of the above downsides.
Currently use two different heads which are both satisfying me. A Genzler Magdaline and a Phil Jones 800
Let's assume your current amp is loud enough and has the features you require to get the job done. Whether a different amp will be an upgrade is totally dependent on your subjective perceptions.
Let's use the Mesa 800W subway amps as an example. There are four models. D800, D800+, WD800, and TT800. AFAIK these amp all use the same output section, but the way the outputs are tuned varies a bit across the product line. Each of the amps is rated 400W at 8 ohms and 800W at 4 or 2 ohms. So you get pretty much the same level of power regardless of which amp you choose.
The variance in the way the output sections are tuned means they respond a bit different as the power is increased. Also, AFAIK the TT's output section is tuned to interact a bit more with the impedance of your speakers than the others. I believe this is intended to give it more of a tubey quality.
The D800 and D800+ preamps are pretty similar. The + has a few more features, including a bright switch and a variable HPF. AFAIK otherwise they sound and respond fairly similar. Both of these amps are pure solid state.
The WD800 and TT800 have fairly different preamp architecture and voicing. Also these amps are hybrid with tubes in the preamp. The TT800 has a two channel preamp. The Boogie channel is based on the old 400 and 400+ all tube amps. The Subway channel is based on based on the D800+ preamp, but uses tubes.
Which Subway 800 amp is best? Well that's for you to decide.
Let's use the Mesa 800W subway amps as an example. There are four models. D800, D800+, WD800, and TT800. AFAIK these amp all use the same output section, but the way the outputs are tuned varies a bit across the product line. Each of the amps is rated 400W at 8 ohms and 800W at 4 or 2 ohms. So you get pretty much the same level of power regardless of which amp you choose.
The variance in the way the output sections are tuned means they respond a bit different as the power is increased. Also, AFAIK the TT's output section is tuned to interact a bit more with the impedance of your speakers than the others. I believe this is intended to give it more of a tubey quality.
The D800 and D800+ preamps are pretty similar. The + has a few more features, including a bright switch and a variable HPF. AFAIK otherwise they sound and respond fairly similar. Both of these amps are pure solid state.
The WD800 and TT800 have fairly different preamp architecture and voicing. Also these amps are hybrid with tubes in the preamp. The TT800 has a two channel preamp. The Boogie channel is based on the old 400 and 400+ all tube amps. The Subway channel is based on based on the D800+ preamp, but uses tubes.
Which Subway 800 amp is best? Well that's for you to decide.
If you just need to spend some cash send it to me.
Throwing money at a problem that does not exist will help you get to welfare faster
Throwing money at a problem that does not exist will help you get to welfare faster
in typical TB speak … and it’s already been said, today amps are mostly irrelevant
For me, every room sounds different and the only reason I'd consider changing amps is if I was having trouble getting what I wanted in places I play regularly. TBH the only reason I've changed amps besides I just wanted to was if I needed more volume, other than that I tend to get something that works and fun it into the ground, then start looking all over again.
Low E said it best first. If you can't describe what you are trying to achieve. You may well be chasing a change. Not an improvement. Behringer are pretty good really. If yours happens to be reliable. & your pedal board seems great. I have a cheap @$$ suggestion that can offer both. Most 210's suffer acoustic comb filtering.
That is the two drivers. So close together on a small front baffle. Their output in waveform. Tends to cancel each other out. The frequency can vary but usually around or half the roll off frequency. & causes mid suck. My Eden 210 does this, Ampeg 810's do it. The ones that do it less are Marshall 412' Guitar cabs. Where the top 2 speakers are are angled back, so face up slightly in the cab. So what you can do. Is get a woodworking shop to make an angled washer. That sits where the foam or rubber seal around the driver seals it from the front baffle. To the width of that sealing lip or rim about 6.5 to 7mm thick. Then have it belt sanded flat with one side 3-3.5mm thinner compared to the other. It won't cure . But will to some degree mitigate that comb filter effect. Enough for a change that might surprise you. Also sitting proud like that. It's a real good idea. To back radius the inside of the front baffle behind that speaker. And make sure the driver splays out, not in. Otherwise things will be much worse. Not better! & put neoprene washers between the wood screws & the speaker rim that may need to be longer. Otherwise if the lip is stamped steel. You might gall it out due to the slight angle on the screw. & FFS don't over tighten or you may have a real bad day if you strip the wood! Markbass tend to make small cabs with a high tuned low cutoff frequency. With low bass to mid colouration. Sacrificing bass accuracy for higher power handling. If my above suggestion does nada for you. Try elevating the speaker by stand or placing on a very sturdy box. To waist or ear level Orienting the 210's vertically instead of horizontally. You will sacrifice low end boom for greater accuracy & WAY better dispersion @ virtually NO cost!. In fact that's the first thing you should do! If all that fails to improve which I doubt. A new slightly larger cab like a Barefaced 3 10 will DEFINITELY make one hell of a difference. Way more than changing your amp ever will. Speakers ARE the main dictators ( pun very much intended) of tone in any electric stringed instrument. After close to half a century of playing & diy'ing with em & custom studio monitor engineering. I don't think, theorise or mental masturbate. I KNOW. I've got no vested interest in Barefaced other than their performance & tone. Also I don't hear a comb filter colouration with those 3 10's in particular. They direct market from the UK. & their CEO plays bass.
Cheers from Australia
That is the two drivers. So close together on a small front baffle. Their output in waveform. Tends to cancel each other out. The frequency can vary but usually around or half the roll off frequency. & causes mid suck. My Eden 210 does this, Ampeg 810's do it. The ones that do it less are Marshall 412' Guitar cabs. Where the top 2 speakers are are angled back, so face up slightly in the cab. So what you can do. Is get a woodworking shop to make an angled washer. That sits where the foam or rubber seal around the driver seals it from the front baffle. To the width of that sealing lip or rim about 6.5 to 7mm thick. Then have it belt sanded flat with one side 3-3.5mm thinner compared to the other. It won't cure . But will to some degree mitigate that comb filter effect. Enough for a change that might surprise you. Also sitting proud like that. It's a real good idea. To back radius the inside of the front baffle behind that speaker. And make sure the driver splays out, not in. Otherwise things will be much worse. Not better! & put neoprene washers between the wood screws & the speaker rim that may need to be longer. Otherwise if the lip is stamped steel. You might gall it out due to the slight angle on the screw. & FFS don't over tighten or you may have a real bad day if you strip the wood! Markbass tend to make small cabs with a high tuned low cutoff frequency. With low bass to mid colouration. Sacrificing bass accuracy for higher power handling. If my above suggestion does nada for you. Try elevating the speaker by stand or placing on a very sturdy box. To waist or ear level Orienting the 210's vertically instead of horizontally. You will sacrifice low end boom for greater accuracy & WAY better dispersion @ virtually NO cost!. In fact that's the first thing you should do! If all that fails to improve which I doubt. A new slightly larger cab like a Barefaced 3 10 will DEFINITELY make one hell of a difference. Way more than changing your amp ever will. Speakers ARE the main dictators ( pun very much intended) of tone in any electric stringed instrument. After close to half a century of playing & diy'ing with em & custom studio monitor engineering. I don't think, theorise or mental masturbate. I KNOW. I've got no vested interest in Barefaced other than their performance & tone. Also I don't hear a comb filter colouration with those 3 10's in particular. They direct market from the UK. & their CEO plays bass.
Cheers from Australia
