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Winter 2017 Build Off - Padauk Single Cut

#45
The last of the wood for the bass:

tumblr_okib01UGB61qi8q1ao1_540.jpg


I don't really need flame maple for this, but it saves me from buying more maple right now. This is the maple that was originally going to be the neck of the 5 string buckeye burl bass I made, but the board has a bow in it, so I got another board for that one. I only need two 1/4" stringers of maple for this neck, so I *think* I can just cut straight strips out of it.

A bunch of other stuff has been ordered. The pickups I decided on weren't in stock, but they're supposed to get them soon, so I have those on order too.

I've been working on blueprints for a while and they are finally done. I tried to put every little detail in them. Hopefully getting them printed this week and start cutting wood soon.
 
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#46
I don't know if you have visited wood-database.com but the guy who put the site together discusses Padauk darkening (and similar woods) over time quite a bit. I have found it to be true. I bought a padauk board a couple years ago to use in a picture frame and then used a different piece of wood instead for that project and stored the Padauk in my garage. I went to find it a couple months ago and couldn't find any orange wood. I found what looked like a piece of walnut and thought "that's odd, I don't remember buying this nice piece of walnut..."

Steve
 
#47
SLivinghouse said:
I don't know if you have visited wood-database.com but the guy who put the site together discusses Padauk darkening (and similar woods) over time quite a bit. I have found it to be true. I bought a padauk board a couple years ago to use in a picture frame and then used a different piece of wood instead for that project and stored the Padauk in my garage. I went to find it a couple months ago and couldn't find any orange wood. I found what looked like a piece of walnut and thought "that's odd, I don't remember buying this nice piece of walnut..."

Steve
Click to expand...

I have read that, but forgot where it was. Thanks

I do find it odd though that the padauk I have was sitting out in the store (Woodcraft) un-gaurded from the sun unless they have tinted windows, maybe? It's all very vibrant.
 
#48
I was at the Woodcraft near Sacramento last week and was rummaging through their small board section and saw a piece of Purpleheart there that was behind several other boards. The top four inches of the piece was exposed to just the light in the store (the windows are on the opposite end of the building) and it was incredible. The top four inches was essentially walnut colored with a slight purple tint. I moved the board in front of it which was blocking the light and the rest of the piece was typical looking Purpleheart. After seeing your post I wish I took a picture of it to show. I think the suggestion on wood-database.com is right. If you want a vibrant color piece of wood, use maple and then a dye.
 
#49
SLivinghouse said:
I was at the Woodcraft near Sacramento last week and was rummaging through their small board section and saw a piece of Purpleheart there that was behind several other boards. The top four inches of the piece was exposed to just the light in the store (the windows are on the opposite end of the building) and it was incredible. The top four inches was essentially walnut colored with a slight purple tint. I moved the board in front of it which was blocking the light and the rest of the piece was typical looking Purpleheart. After seeing your post I wish I took a picture of it to show. I think the suggestion on wood-database.com is right. If you want a vibrant color piece of wood, use maple and then a dye.
Click to expand...

I really like the padauk I have even if it doesn't end up staying that vibrant color.
 
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#50
Lonnybass said:
These just came out of the shop the other day.
View attachment 1032244
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Hey Lonny, what diameter did you get?

I decided against buying binding in favor of using scraps from the bass woods. I was thinking padauk binding would look good, but since the luminlays need light to charge, the charger against the padauk would probably leave some really weird color changes. So, I'll probably use maple, which means I'll want to get the black piping on the luminlays. Blue with black piping only comes in either 3 or 5 mm. I'm thinking 5 might be too big, but not sure.
 
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#51
lbridenstine said:
Hey Lonny, what diameter did you get?

I decided against buying binding in favor of using scraps from the bass woods. I was thinking padauk binding would look good, but since the luminlays need light to charge, the charger against the padauk would probably leave some really weird color changes. So, I'll probably use maple, which means I'll want to get the black piping on the luminlays. Blue with black piping only comes in either 3 or 5 mm. I'm thinking 5 might be too big, but not sure.
Click to expand...

Nevermind, I just found a picture of an instrument with 4mm dots and they looked huge. 3mm looks like the winner.
 
#52
lbridenstine said:
Hey Lonny, what diameter did you get?

I decided against buying binding in favor of using scraps from the bass woods. I was thinking padauk binding would look good, but since the luminlays need light to charge, the charger against the padauk would probably leave some really weird color changes. So, I'll probably use maple, which means I'll want to get the black piping on the luminlays. Blue with black piping only comes in either 3 or 5 mm. I'm thinking 5 might be too big, but not sure.
Click to expand...

3MM is the way to go :-)
 
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#54
It's probably about time to start this bass, eh?

I ended up having to get another piece of maple. That other one is not usable, unfortunately. It moved in every direction.

I got my blueprints printed, but the one for the templates somehow got printed bigger than it's supposed to be so I can't use that. The print company said they would re-print it, but I haven't heard anything about it being ready to pick up yet. So, I decided to go ahead and change the bandsaw to the re-saw blade now and do the templates when I'm done with this blade.

My workshop is looking a little better for actually working in.

tumblr_olagzmUy7v1qi8q1ao1_1280.jpg


If you look close, you can almost make out the bass design on the blueprints, haha. I got the blueprint laminated and it will end up being hung on a wall in the workshop when I'm done with it.

I picked up this cool little T-rule last time I went to Woodcraft. It came in very handy today. The holes are too small, even for a mechanical pencil, but the slots work.

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So I ripped and re-sawed the neck woods, ripped the black limba for the body, and marked the cuts for the wenge layers of the body and headstock, but haven't cut that yet.

I need to plane these pieces before I can glue it up. I cut all the boards wider than they need to be, which is why the neck looks super wide. This is the basic layout for the back, except the neck laminates will be tapered:

tumblr_olagzmUy7v1qi8q1ao4_1280.jpg


The re-sawing turned out pretty nicely and the bandsaw setup was much easier and quicker than it usually is for me.

Next time I get to try out my new planer. :)
 
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#58
lbridenstine said:
So, I tried out my planer for the first time. I bought it last summer before I moved and haven't had anything to try it on until now.

This is straight off of the planer:

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Super smooth, no sanding or anything required.

I didn't have time to glue today, but it looks ready for glue-up.

tumblr_ole69qFbsE1qi8q1ao3_1280.jpg


I'm definitely happy with the planer.
Click to expand...
Looks good. I think we have the same planer (Cutech). I got excellent results with mine too. Do you have the carbide insert cutterhead?
 

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