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Winter 2017 Build Off - Padauk Single Cut

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Scattered updates:

I got my (second) template re-print and this time it's correct, woohoo!

My luminlays arrived about a week after I ordered them. For some reason none of my Hipshot stuff I ordered seems to be shipping...? I ordered the bridge/tailpiece set from one website and the tuners from another and haven't gotten shipping notifications from either one. Pickups are still not in stock either.

If I actually manage to get this build done by the deadline I will be amazed. Not just because of the lack of parts, but obviously for waiting to start until there was only about 5 weeks left!

Anyway. I glued up the neck in 2 halves. I will cut the taper on each half, then joint and glue them together. I'll post pictures when I do that.

I put some Sugru on the knobs of my LMI fret slotting jig in preparation for the fretboard. Last time I used it the knobs killed my fingers, so this should be better.

I think I'm going to have a hard time deciding which section of the ziricote to use for this fretboard. There's a lot of options.

I need to make a radiusing jig soon, I think I'll make it similar to this one: Electric Bass Guitar Build - Page 6

I also want to use this setup for an easier way to route the truss rod and stiffening rod routes, so I'll make a flat router base for it too. I'll put a hole in the base of each to plug in a dust collector hose.

Does anyone know if the pvc pipe rails need to be a certain diameter?
 
Does anyone know if the pvc pipe rails need to be a certain diameter?

Just needs to be straight and parallel - does not need to be a particular size, be PVC or even be pipe. MDF or wood with a roundover to reduce wear on the edge would do fine. EMT (thinwall metal conduit) would be another affordable approach. A fatter pipe will be stiffer if the jig is only supporting the rails at the end - if the rails are fastened to the base, that should not matter much.
 
Just needs to be straight and parallel - does not need to be a particular size, be PVC or even be pipe. MDF or wood with a roundover to reduce wear on the edge would do fine. EMT (thinwall metal conduit) would be another affordable approach. A fatter pipe will be stiffer if the jig is only supporting the rails at the end - if the rails are fastened to the base, that should not matter much.

Thanks!
 
Hi, my name is Lisa and I suck at time management.

There's no way I'm going to make the deadline (you may have noticed?)

I have about 1-2 days of woodworking left (I hope no more than that) on one of the guitars in my "Double Sevens" thread before I can start putting finish on it, so I think I'll focus on that, then get back to this bass. No sense in letting it wait longer when it doesn't have too much left to it.

As far as this bass goes, look what finally came in the mail!

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Only a little over a month after I ordered them...! The tuners...? Nope, they're still not here. The pickups were the only thing listed as back ordered, so I don't get what's going on with all of the Hipshot stuff. Kind of annoying.
 
The easiest way out would be to cut out a mask from cardboard and place the wood underneath, you can find the best matching pattern easy that way. :)

Yeah, but I want the padauk visible while doing it because I think the color and grain pattern play a role in my decision. I was going to take those pictures into Illustrator and create a mask on there.
 
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Yeah, but I want the padauk visible while doing it because I think the color and grain pattern play a role in my decision. I was going to take those pictures into Illustrator and create a mask on there.

Hey Lisa

If you have the time, I second the idea of an Illustrator mask. I like working that way because masking photos can sometimes tell a tale or reveal a detail that looking at the wood can't.
 
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Yes, I also would go with a mask for the whole guitar shape, not just the neck. Either way (illustrator or not) it should give you a good insight. What I always found a bit confusing while doing it on a computer is the right scaling and color matching the picture. It always tends to be off a bit, but I worked with separate wood piece images.
 
I forgot to ask, I like the way you taper the neck pieces, I guess I saw a similar approach on Wyn basses, is there a benefit in having the taper when it comes to strength/ stability, or is it aesthetical thing rather? Do you match or reverse the grain?
 

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