Winter Build Off 2022 - Explorer Bass

[Bent77]

T&G is really about installation speed (the t & g are self aligning) and a joint that allows some float - so the wood can move without the floor (or siding, or whatever) becoming uneven. On fine woodworking (like gluing up a body blank for a bass) the glue itself is far more than strong enough, we're able to take our time during assembly instead of relying on the joint to self-align, and the joint doesn't need to stay aligned as the pieces float since it's glued solid versus being tacked down every foot or two with a nail.

Perfect explanation, thank you

 

[5tring]

Straight string paths across the nut aren't really a functional requirement in most cases, just a visual thing. But when you have all of the strings pulling one way on the nut it can make it a pain to keep the nut anchored (and lead to the temptation to glue it in place really well, which creates headaches when it needs to be removed).

Since you are starting with a flat fender style headstock, you'll want a string retainer for the longest two strings anyways to get enough of a break angle across the nut. You can just plan that retainer to also allow for routing the strings so they pull straight on the nut.

I previously had this exact issue, but I didn’t want to resort to glue. I drilled right through the nut and into the neck with a 1.5mm drill bit (maybe 2mm, can’t remember) and inserted a couple of pieces of toothpick, ahem, erm, ‘micro dowels’, sanded flush and it worked a treat.
When I did it I went between the strings, which left a couple (of) visible dots but I don’t see why it couldn’t be done within the string slot

 

[Matt Liebenau]

View attachment 4518773
This is what I intend to do to create an Explorer headstock. The added piece of maple will be glued on, plus two long screws inserted from the right hand side.

All four tuners will be on the left hand side that is one with the neck. So no problem with stability there. The hole for the E tuner will be used, the partial hole for the A will get a wooden insert.

The division line between the two pieces is too prominent, of course. My original plan was to bluff my way through that. Like saying: this is how I made it, if that offends you you're out of luck! But I feel I can't do that anymore now that the difference in colour is so obvious. (The two pieces of maple looked much more similar at first, but have reacted differently to the tung oil.)

So now I'm thinking a veneer that matches the body. Objectively that's a good idea. But somehow I have trouble warming to it. The whole idea of a veneer feels alien to me. Besides, I'm already over budget.

You see, this is how difficult I'm finding it to build a truly "personal" bass. So please let me wrestle with it all in my own way, and I'll figure it out. I always do.

If you’re going to veneer the headstock anyway I’d also suggest dowels or splines on the face that’s going to get the veneer instead of screws.

 

[boxerrider]

Just well-prepared surfaces and glue.
Dowels and screws will not add any strength. They may even compromise it.

Enjoy!
Jeff

 

[Flamingo21]

In the shed, because of the rain.

Feels weird, cutting up a perfectly good headstock.

 

[Flamingo21]

Spot the differences.

I will do the final shaping when it's securely glued together.

 

[Flamingo21]

Random pic of Lzzy Hale and her signature Explorer.

I'm using this as an excuse to talk about visual impression. Please note that I do not ask you to agree with my points of view.

The largest segment of the body, as seen here on the left, is an important part of what makes the Explorer shape impressive. It flares out from the narrow middle, and it has an edge that is long and curved with all other edges being shorter and straight.

Now here's how an Explorer guitar differs from an Explorer bass: on the guitar that flaring segment is almost empty, here enhanced by it being bright white. But on a bass, due to the longer strings, it's not empty and can be less impressive.

Here's an Awful Example:

The bridge is placed very far back here, and while I like the bridge itself I feel it detracts from the impressiveness of the body shape. Again, I don't need you to feel the same way, I'd just like you to understand my thinking, because of what follows.

These look better (to me):


So I want to keep the bridge some distance from the back edge. This has a consequence: my neck is 34" and it has only 20 frets, so moving the bridge up means moving the neck almost off the body.

If I'd made my own neck I could have made it longer beyond the last fret, running under the neck pickup. Gibson did this on at least some of their Explorers. That gives enough contact area between the neck and the body, so they can be fastened well. All I can do with my pre-made neck is to extend the body under the neck. That gives enough contact area as well. But that in turn can lead to a lack of solidity, if the part of the body that connects to the neck is just a narrow protrusion.

Now this is why I've left that strange width at the neck end of the body, so the protrusion has some wood around it and can be strong. I will of course shape it into something a bit more attractive. And I may shorten it depending on where my bridge ends up.

 

[deff]

The Fernandez Function might be my favorite traditional Explorer type bass. They seem to have at least somewhat attempted to balance what you're talking about. Part of the cool part about them as guitars is exactly what you pointed out and the scale length changes the bridge position. I'm excited to see what you come up with.

 

[Flamingo21]

What do you think?

 

[deff]

View attachment 4520269
View attachment 4520270

What do you think?

Love it! Are you going to use that approximate location for the pickup? (please say yes!)

 

[Flamingo21]

Yes.

 

[Slidlow]

You should be able to trim the body to the edges of the neck, especially if the body is 1 3/4" thick and would have enough support for bolting the neck on.

 

[Flamingo21]

It is indeed 1 3/4" thick.

 

[Basvarken]

These look better (to me):
View attachment 4519919View attachment 4519921View attachment 4519933

The two Gibson Explorer basses are medium scale (32 1/2"). That is why the bridge is more towards the middle of the bass on those two.

 

[Flamingo21]

You should be able to trim the body to the edges of the neck, especially if the body is 1 3/4" thick and would have enough support for bolting the neck on.

Now that I've thought about it again, I think you're right. The "protrusion" (the bit sticking out from the body that the neck attaches to) will be 1"x2.5" of solid maple. That should be enough.

Also, I've been looking at those two pics. (Edit: I mean the pics of my mock-up.) I haven't yet decided on bridge placement, but I'm sure now I want to shape the body normally, for esthetic reasons. The "wide protrusion", as it is now, detracts from the overall shape.

This may influence the bridge placement. I'm thinking about that. Yes, I'm a slow thinker.

 

[Flamingo21]

Every one of you: thanks for being here. It's a good thing to have you looking over my shoulder and thinking along.

 

[Slidlow]

Now that I've thought about it again, I think you're right. The "protrusion" (the bit sticking out from the body that the neck attaches to) will be 1"x2.5" of solid maple. That should be enough./QUOTE] If you go with standard Fender 5/8" depth pocket you will have 1 1/8" left over. You could also build in a little angle on the bottom of the neck pocket/protrusion to correctly align your neck with the bridge depending on its height.

 

[A9X]

Every one of you: thanks for being here. It's a good thing to have you looking over my shoulder and thinking along.

What? We're not getting paid?

 

[Matt Liebenau]

What? We're not getting paid?

Exposure, man. You’re playing for exposure. There’s dozens of record producers in the audience…. Truly…

 

[RichterScale]

At the very least, I'm hoping to score a sweat pants modeling gig.