WIRE GLUE, has anybody tried it?

[mech]

From my understanding, one of the first electrical uses for solder was to seal twisted wire connections on the wiring of early electrically activated pipe organs from air to prevent oxidation of the mechanical connection. I was taught that any soldered electrical connection should not depend on the solder for conduction, there should be a solid mechanical connection. Think hardwired tube circuits from a long time ago. In this type of application I can see the "Glue" being of use where a solid mechanical connection just needs to be sealed and electrical power is inconvenient. Repair or or rewiring would be another story.

mech

 

[Smilodon]

This might useful for people who not-so comfortable with using a soldering iron and want to be able to change a pickup. Say like, twist two 22 awg (or smaller e.g. 22-30 gauge) wires together and put a dab of this glue to keep it from separating. Yes?

Then you could just as well use screw or crimp connectors. <or you could even use tape/heat shrink tubing.

From my understanding, one of the first electrical uses for solder was to seal twisted wire connections on the wiring of early electrically activated pipe organs from air to prevent oxidation of the mechanical connection. I was taught that any soldered electrical connection should not depend on the solder for conduction, there should be a solid mechanical connection. Think hardwired tube circuits from a long time ago. In this type of application I can see the "Glue" being of use where a solid mechanical connection just needs to be sealed and electrical power is inconvenient. Repair or or rewiring would be another story.

mech

Sometimes the solder is used as a mechanical connection. Especially on PCB based electronics. SMD components rely entirely on the solder for holding things in place.

On wires you usually twist the wires because it makes soldering much easier. Wires usually break before the solder joints do.

 

[mech]

Then you could just as well use screw or crimp connectors. <or you could even use tape/heat shrink tubing.

Sometimes the solder is used as a mechanical connection. Especially on PCB based electronics. SMD components rely entirely on the solder for holding things in place.

On wires you usually twist the wires because it makes soldering much easier. Wires usually break before the solder joints do.

I'm familiar with the use of solder on PCBs from dealing with them in a manufacturing facility for 30 years, from the good old days of point to point wiring, to hand stuffing/soldering PCBs and lead free SMT with all the RoHas male bovine meadow muffins that goes along with it. I'm also aware of the wire breaking before the solder joint, especially solid wire or the portion of stranded that gets tinned when the joint is made. I've seen the aftermath of 72 hour shaker table testing and had to deal with the result. Early lead free solder and SMT easily comes to mind. :scowl:

I think the context of the OP was more toward home repair of the average type of connections found in guitars. Screw and crimp connectors in this context are bulky and inconvenient. Although properly made crimp and screw connectors can seal a connection from the atmosphere, heatshrink will not keep oxygen from a mechanical connection. Over tightened screw or crimp connections will weaken the lead(s) being connected and will most likely cause failure in any device subject to vibration due to lead breakage unless the leads are firmly supported outside the connector.

Do-it-yourselfer repair/modification of PCBs of any technology as used in guitars are relatively few and far between. Personally the few thousandths of an Ohm added by a few mills of this Glue, if used for a few average connections in a guitar or any other low current application, other than RF, wouldn't bother me at all, but I would not use it for dozens of connections. It's kind of like stacking gnat's hairs. If you stack a few it still doesn't add up to anything significant. I would still want a good mechanical connection for anything with a lead or that had significant weight. Due to the cure time the connection would also need to be stable to prevent it from pulling apart due to any stress caused by twisted leads, gravity, poking at it to see if it's dry, etc.

BTW...I've not used this product but may get some just for grins to test. I would like to test some on a poorly made high power connection for flammability to see if it lets the smoke out.

mech

 

[SGD Lutherie]

Wires usually break before the solder joints do.

+1

I'd say every time, unless it was a poorly excited solder joint.

Making a good mechanical connection first makes unsoldering harder, but in the long run things stay connected.

 

[dincz]

a poorly excited solder joint.

I've got thousands of those

 

[Smilodon]

I'm familiar with the use of solder on PCBs from dealing with them in a manufacturing facility for 30 years, from the good old days of point to point wiring, to hand stuffing/soldering PCBs and lead free SMT with all the RoHas male bovine meadow muffins that goes along with it. I'm also aware of the wire breaking before the solder joint, especially solid wire or the portion of stranded that gets tinned when the joint is made. I've seen the aftermath of 72 hour shaker table testing and had to deal with the result. Early lead free solder and SMT easily comes to mind. :scowl:

I think the context of the OP was more toward home repair of the average type of connections found in guitars. Screw and crimp connectors in this context are bulky and inconvenient. Although properly made crimp and screw connectors can seal a connection from the atmosphere, heatshrink will not keep oxygen from a mechanical connection. Over tightened screw or crimp connections will weaken the lead(s) being connected and will most likely cause failure in any device subject to vibration due to lead breakage unless the leads are firmly supported outside the connector.

Do-it-yourselfer repair/modification of PCBs of any technology as used in guitars are relatively few and far between. Personally the few thousandths of an Ohm added by a few mills of this Glue, if used for a few average connections in a guitar or any other low current application, other than RF, wouldn't bother me at all, but I would not use it for dozens of connections. It's kind of like stacking gnat's hairs. If you stack a few it still doesn't add up to anything significant. I would still want a good mechanical connection for anything with a lead or that had significant weight. Due to the cure time the connection would also need to be stable to prevent it from pulling apart due to any stress caused by twisted leads, gravity, poking at it to see if it's dry, etc.

I agree. My comment was more angled towards those considering alternatives to soldering.

BTW...I've not used this product but may get some just for grins to test. I would like to test some on a poorly made high power connection for flammability to see if it lets the smoke out.

mech

If you do, make sure to make a video and post it here.

+1

I'd say every time, unless it was a poorly excited solder joint.

Making a good mechanical connection first makes unsoldering harder, but in the long run things stay connected.

That's why I never run cables through the eyes of pots. I tend to change things long before any solder joint gets a chance to go bad.