Wiring advice needed

[BassChuck]

Back story: I have a J-Bass with Nordy humbuckers into an Audere J3. The preamp has died and I'm replacing it with a standard passive J-Bass control plate.
Question: The pups each have 4 wires; red, green, white, and black. The white and black leads are joined, but not wired into the Audere. The wiring diagram that came with the passive (DiMarzio) control panel shows a 'ground' lead soldered to the case of the pot and the 'hot' lead to one of the tabs (same for both the volume pots).
So... Should I ignore the white and black leads (as was done with the Audere) and solder the red to the case and the green to the tab? Or the other way around? Or should I solder the black and white leads together on the case and the red and green together on the tab? Or is there another way?
Thanks for your help.

 

[ctmullins]

Sounds like they're currently wired in series. If you like that tone, then leave the white/black as is, not connected to anything. Look at Nordstrand's documentation to be sure, but I would guess that red is hot and green is ground.

The Nordstrands also give you the option of switching to parallel wiring, which is brighter and less loud. If you want to do that, then again the Nordstrand documentation should tell you which wires go where.

 

[Derek Kay]

It seems you have 4 coils that can be connected in various permutations for different onboard tone selection. A standard Jazz only has 2 coils.

Maybe you should search "coil taps" since you are rewiring anyway, and the PUs are already wired to do so. Eg series/parallel within or between PUs; using one coil from each PU like a std Jazz, etc

Cosmetically, push-pull pots look no different to a std Jazz if that matters. Having a couple of options could be useful.

 

[rojo412]

Per Nordy's website:

"All Dual Coils and Humbuckers except Music Man replacement:
Series Wiring: Black = HOT. Green + Bare Wire = GROUND. Red and White together and taped off.
Parallel: Black and Red = HOT. Green, White + Bare = GROUND (Black and White are the bridge coil and red and green are the neck coil)."

I'd do whichever version of this you're looking to achieve. As mentioned, series is higher output and more low mids, parallel is smoother and quieter and more scooped.
If there is a plain wire, it is for connecting the poles to ground for shielding purposes.

Nordstrand bass pickups don't typically do a "tap" function (which is far different than cutting a coil off in a humbucking pickup). Most people confuse something like a "coil cut" or "series/parallel" switch as "tap" because a lot of industry jargon has used the term incorrectly.
If you want to wire these pickups with the option of a push/pull series/parallel switch, you could certainly do that. You'd just need some DPDT push pull pots and to wire the pickups like this:

(depending on which brand and position you want the "push" to be would depend on how it corresponds to the attached pot section, but it's easy to figure out)