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Wiring Difference hot to jack versus tone pot

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Whil57, Nov 25, 2017.


  1. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    Looking at the common wiring diagrams, it seems for one pickup alot of diagrams show the hot coming off the volume pot to the jack. The standard j bass diagrams with two pickups, have a hot jumper from vol to vol then tone, then the tone to the jack. Does this difference do anything?
    I'm trying to wire in a push pull for the two cap mod, on the tone pot, and both Duncan and Fralin have mods for this, but it doesnt make sense to me that neither has the tone pot going to the jack.
     
  2. It's doesn't really matter where in the circuit the treble cut (tone pot) is.
    It can be between the "hot" & the jack or anywhere else, as long as it's connecting the signal to a capacitor to ground through a resistance, it's doing it's job.

    add: We've since been informed that it does matter, so don't wire the treble cut to the wiper/center lug of the volume pot.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2017
  3. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    How is that working- some kind of electrical signal attraction. Because in the one instance it seems the flow (if there is a flow) seems dead ended?
     
  4. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    Thanks guys. I had it working last night, when to change one cap value as it wasnt doing much, and then it went to crap. Hope i didnt melt the push pot.
     
  5. If it wasn't doing much, maybe you had it wired to the wiper terminal (center lug) of the volume pot.

    You can check the status of your push/pull with a Ohm meter.
     
  6. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    1 C.
    This was how i had it when i had 4 tones (2 open to close)
     
  7. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    Not sure what you mean on using one pole on the switch. But if the standard P shows the wiper of (my second) volume pot going right to the jack, is that what you mean about the P wiring? As far as the switch, would the caps to the wiper be better?
     
  8. Don't wire the cap across both lugs of the switch. One lug is fine & it doesn't matter which side.

    1 C.
     
    PawleeP likes this.
  9. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    No i hadnt- i assumed that was a visual error based on other diagrams. Whats confusing me, and maybe Line6 didnt know, was this was a J wiring originally, the vol/vol/ tone. So my second volume pot has the hot from the pickup on the sweep, so i cant send it to the jack.
     
  10. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    But i have two pickups.
     
  11. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    Unless, but i never seen it, skip the jumper the volumes have on the right side (left side?) and wire each volume direct to the tone.
     
  12. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    JazzBass_Standard.
    thats how it was
     
  13. Do you have some macro (close-up) photos of what you've got now?
     
  14. I guess I wasn't clear on what you were doing. I deleted all previous posts, for clarity.

    If you have a standard VVT scheme, it should look something like this:
    free-schematic-and-jazz-bass-wiring-diagram-standard-neck-volume-bridge-volume-master-tone.

    To add a push/pull capacitance switch, you won't be needing to alter the wiring of the volume and tone pots.
     
  15. Whil57

    Whil57

    Aug 7, 2013
    Long Island
    no, my bad, i should have started the thread with a FULL diagram. Ok, i'll see what happens.
     
  16. Hey! You forgot to erase the ground connection between the two switch contacts!

    Actually one can wire it either way.
    The advantage to doubling up the contacts is that you double the switch contact surface area. If one set of contacts start to get flakey, the other set may still be fine, so longer *mean time to failure* with double contacts. It's what I'd ' cause that's how I roll Y and KBD MMV. Of course, if one set if contacts get flakey, you always just re-wire things to the second, previously unused set of contacts.
     
  17. No, I didn't forget, which is why I said it wouldn't matter which side the OP connects to.
    With the ground wire across both terminals, it wouldn't matter.

    Won't having the cap connected to both terminals cause popping when switching?

    (Also, if I'd have removed the wire between the center terminals, neither of the caps would have a connection to ground)
     
  18. The reason that you don't want to "double up" on the poles is that it causes more popping noises when switching. Instead of just having one pole hitting one throw, when switching, you have two poles hitting two throws. Ideally, you want the switching to be as silent as possible, so you just use one pole, and preferably a light duty switch with a low ampacity.
     
  19. How long is the duration of one pop, compared to two, and what is the timing difference between the two?
    Or do they happen at the same time with the resultant pop being louder than the original, by double?
    Like I said everyone's MMV on this.
    For my money, I don't see louder or longer pops being an issue vs having more reliability in switching.
    If your milage varies fine. I have no arguement with you over your preferences.
    But please note that it is a personal preference. Implying that I am wrong, especially since I've stated that I'm OK with either method, is just picking at nits.

    Perhaps we'd both better serve the conversation by suggesting that anyone doing this not skimp and purchase a quality switch. Maybe something with make before break contacts?

    Thank you.
     

  20. I never implied that you were wrong. I just pointed out the reason that double pole schemes are questionable.

    In the real world, the OP probably isn't going to be at any advantage or disadvantage, either way.
     

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