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Wolf 5 String rebuild

Slidlow

The Human CNC
Supporting Member
Apr 15, 2009
2,941
7,702
Oshawa, Canada
Happened across this stripped down Wolf 5 string.
IMG_9356[1].JPG
Obviously the fretboard was removed and also the truss rod is stripped. It was a 35" string length so that will be new for me. I'll install a new truss rod and fretboard and refret it. Managed to remove the original truss rod and it was cranked hard which is likely why it was stripped out. There is a small chip out at the nut area and near the end of the neck that will need a little grafting and repair.
IMG_9358[1].JPG

IMG_9359[1].JPG

I think it will turn out pretty nice once done. The layering is quite good with a veneer between the main body wood (looks like a type of mahogany) and the top cap of spalted maple. There are very few nicks or dings so finish repair should be minimal. Don't think it will need a refinish.
IMG_9360[1].JPG

This won't be near as involved as my last salvage job
Carvin LB75 ressurection.
 
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In the first pic it looks like one of those water damaged scratch'n'dents that Guitar Fetish sells.
No from a private individual. Someone had previously taken it apart to likely see if they could do something with it. I expect after the nightmare of removing the phenolic board (it probably came off in pieces) they just put it aside.
 
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Happened across this stripped down Wolf 5 string.View attachment 5373940 Obviously the fretboard was removed and also the truss rod is stripped. It was a 35" string length so that will be new for me. I'll install a new truss rod and fretboard and refret it. Managed to remove the original truss rod and it was cranked hard which is likely why it was stripped out. There is a small chip out at the nut area and near the end of the neck that will need a little grafting and repair.View attachment 5373943
View attachment 5373944
I think it will turn out pretty nice once done. The layering is quite good with a veneer between the main body wood (looks like a type of mahogany) and the top cap of spalted maple. There are very few nicks or dings so finish repair should be minimal. Don't think it will need a refinish.View attachment 5373945
This won't be near as involved as my last salvage job
Carvin LB75 ressurection.

That's sad to see. But I'm glad that you've grabbed it and decided to make it well again.

The builder put some real work into that bass. Nice design, good craftsmanship. But, I'm assuming that they took some shortcuts on the engineering of the neck. The neck warped or twisted a bit, and someone got on the truss rod with a big wrench and broke it. I presume that's what caused all this destruction.

I keep lecturing everyone around here about the importance of building your necks so that they don't warp. So this doesn't happen to your basses.....

Roll up your sleeves and fix it. It should be a nice bass when it's healthy again.
 
That's sad to see. But I'm glad that you've grabbed it and decided to make it well again.

The builder put some real work into that bass. Nice design, good craftsmanship. But, I'm assuming that they took some shortcuts on the engineering of the neck. The neck warped or twisted a bit, and someone got on the truss rod with a big wrench and broke it. I presume that's what caused all this destruction.

I keep lecturing everyone around here about the importance of building your necks so that they don't warp. So this doesn't happen to your basses.....

Roll up your sleeves and fix it. It should be a nice bass when it's healthy again.
As far as I can tell one issue may have been a low quality rod. When I got it out I noticed a couple of kinks in it. It wasn’t fully straight and the adjuster end had bent slightly out of alignment. With the rod out the neck is quite flat. There is a bit of butchery that will need a few pieces glued on and the surface trued before installing a new board. I’ll take photos of how I deal with them and post for all interested parties. Of course there is always several ways to do repairs and I also tend to come up with some as I go.
 
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As far as I can tell one issue may have been a low quality rod. When I got it out I noticed a couple of kinks in it. It wasn’t fully straight and the adjuster end had bent slightly out of alignment.

To me, that indicates that the truss rod was overtightened. Abuse. Maybe the neck wasn't warped and the owner cranked on the truss rod to lower the action or adjust the pickups or something. That's extra sad. Oh well. It's certainly fixable.
 
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First up is the missing splinter at the nut.
IMG_9364[1].JPG
This picture is after I carefully smoothed out the missing area and created a smooth surface to glue a piece to. Then I fashioned a sliver to glue in place cut from a similar color and grained maple piece.
IMG_9365[1].JPG

The piece laid in place.
IMG_9366[1].JPG

Glued and taped down.
IMG_9369[1].JPG

When that dries I'll shape it.
 
I see your mention of it being a phenolic fingerboard. Probably Richlite. That may have been its problem. The dreaded Differential Expansion. The wood neck soaked in some moisture and tried to expand, while the fingerboard tried to hold it back. The neck bowed forward. And the owner cranked on the truss rod, trying to stop the battle. With the resulting destruction.

The #1 reason why I don't like to use Richlite fingerboards on wood necks.
 
I see your mention of it being a phenolic fingerboard. Probably Richlite. That may have been its problem. The dreaded Differential Expansion. The wood neck soaked in some moisture and tried to expand, while the fingerboard tried to hold it back. The neck bowed forward. And the owner cranked on the truss rod, trying to stop the battle. With the resulting destruction.

The #1 reason why I don't like to use Richlite fingerboards on wood necks.
I believe you are right:thumbsup:. The elements I removed were definitely phenolic like and what you say is likely what occurred:meh:. It will be getting a nice new wooden fretboard:hyper:.