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Double Bass Wood Endpin (end pin)

Hi everyone - I thought I'd share my recent experience with a custom-made wooden end pin. The design is by Rick Williams (of the bass-buggie, http://www.dblbassbuggie.com/), and I purchased mine through KC strings, though he does sell them individually.

To help you know where I'm coming from, I'm playing on a 170 year old Tyrolean instrument, and I'm speaking to classical, bowed playing exclusively.

I ordered this end pin with a 10mm carbon fiber post, and a 175mm end pin length. Pictured below:

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I then cut mine down to 4.75 inches (the length of the 2nd stop on my steel endpin) with a hand saw, and sanded down the flat end. It comes a crutch tip, so fine detail sanding is not required.

The sound difference is significant. I read on another forum that the difference is more when playing on hardwood floor, rather than carpet. This is true.

The bass takes on new characteristics: Warmth, depth, darkness and a woody tone. The steel endpin gives it a more solid, pointed tone, but it's also brighter sounding, less depth and more metallic.

I do not know whether this is due more to the shorter post inside the bass (it does not protrude past the endpin block and into the resonating chamber) or the lighter weight materials absorbing less sound, and carrying more into the floor, but I'm sure it's some combination of the two.

The wood endpin definitely opens up the bass. It has more resonance, and you can hear more sympathetic vibration throughout. The dark sound quality contrast between wood and steel is prominent in all registers, but most stark in the upper register, through thumb position to the end of the fingerboard.

Rick Williams is on talkbass and might be good enough to chime in with details or experiences of his own.

Needless to say, I'm very happy. If you're playing pizz, this might make you lose some focus to your sound, but add some oomph.

Pictures of mine are forthcoming.
 
After the cut.
 

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I stained the natural wood a darker color to be a little closer to the bass, or at least so as not to stick out in a section. I also switched out the white crutch tip for a black one.

I honestly can't believe the change between this sound and the steel endpin. I had no idea it had that kind of effect on the timbre, and even the volume!
 

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I work with Rick and am glad to see this. It certainly is in line with my experience as well. If you have any problems with slipping across the floor, you might try a cane tip which is flatter and grips the floor better. That's what I have and it's been working well. Nice job.
 
I've swapped out the endpins on almost every bass I've had over the last five years - using either one of the KC strings pins, Lemur's Onyx rosewood pin or Johnny Atomic's pins.

In every case the sound significantly improves over steel endpins both in volume and warmth.

An interim step is to cut the steel pin down to the shortest length you need and get all that metal out of the guts of the bass.

Louis
 
An interim step is to cut the steel pin down to the shortest length you need and get all that metal out of the guts of the bass.

I had cut the steel endpin down on my other bass years ago. They're interchangable between basses (both 10mm) so before Rick's endpin came in I was switching back and forth to see if I could hear a difference. It definitely effected the sound, but not as drastically as the CF/wood endpin.

I have two playing heights - seated (classical), and standing (jazz). Instead of buying two pins, Rick recommended to me that I have a wooden bushing cut to fit the 10mm CF rod and insert that between the bass and the pin to add height. I may try it someday, but I don't have the tools right now.
 
We have a 1950 Kay with three 14mm endpins: one long carbon fibre, one short carbon fibre and one maple. Its fun to let players try all three - they are often astonished at the different timbres produced by the three different pins - almost like three different basses. ;)
 
Its fun to let players try all three - they are often astonished at the different timbres produced by the three different pins - almost like three different basses. ;)

It's amazing how much these little things can change the sound. When I have my long steel post in, it's like having a solo bass. When I have my wood pin in, it sounds like a big, old Italian orchestral bass and when I have the short steel pin in, it's somewhere in between.

Even the smallest details have an effect - I tried the cane tips recommended above, and I swear is changed the resonance. The cane tips, being larger and thicker, muted the resonance and sound carrying into the wood floor. The crutch tips, which are thinner, harder and smaller make the bass sound bigger. Maybe it's all in my head at this point...

But really, on a short wood endpin like mine, the cane tip covers half the length of the wood! I wouldn't be surprised if it affected the sound. It also has a metal bushing and significantly more rubber on the bottom, that may dampen the pin-to-floor transfer.

But I'm ramble...
 
My setup is a bit different. Rick also makes a totally wood pin which normally is used with the tilt block. I reamed my receiver for it and have a traditional 'old school' pin. For transport, I made a pin just long enough for a cane tip. When Rick first introduced his pins a few years ago, I used the one which is the subject of this thread in a 10mm unit and liked it quite a bit.
Today, I asked Rick why he uses the white crutch tip and he told me it was chosen because it won't mark floors like the black rubber. BTW, although we work in the same building, Rick's company is completely separate from KC Strings/Krutz.
 
For transport, I made a pin just long enough for a cane tip.

I think I'm going to need to do this. Although my bass is small (5/8 or 3/4), I do play with the bass very low to the ground compared to most classical players (as shown by the length of my pin in the pictures), the endpin still sticks out.

At some point I'll have to figure out something to put on the bass, as you said, just long enough for the cane tip so that I don't have to put the bass on the ground. I'll probably just cut down a 10mm steel rod or a cheap endpin way down and mount a tip on it somehow.
 
I think not using a rubber tip, but a Invalid Link Removed can also change the sound of a wooden endpin. Have you tried this, too?
jonas

The endpin you linked was actually my first choice, but could not get a response about them via email from Kontrabass-Atelier. I ended up going through KC strings because it was the only other alternative (also they are domestically produced for me here in the States, and easier to acquire).

I've been thinking of ways to retrofit a spike tip onto this one.
 

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