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Wood sources?

#22
RichterScale said:
What kind of tools and work space do you have at your disposal?
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Basic hand tools. I have a small trim router, table saw, chop saw, jig saw, an electric hand planer, and a drill press. I'm not a professional (or even experienced amateur) wood worker. I build my projects on temporary workstations on sawhorses, etc. Still, I've built some pretty cool things (I think they're cool anyway).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/D6Tst84rP1GXqWMH6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fdoTKBxX4AaNgExD6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kG2zAWMNyJCyhC1C6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8m49HJmUc8s9KWHL9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/P3Fj8P9qwaQjuTTK6

So I think I'm pretty resourceful. I also know what I can and can't do.

I've looked at several DIY jigs for turning routers or hand planers into a makeshift surface planer. I know I could go that route, but if I'm going to that much trouble and expense it makes more sense to just buy an inexpensive surface planer. Or for that matter, pay for one of the more expensive ready made drop tops.

I do have a Stew Mac Safety Planer attachment for the drill press. But it's a small drill press. I think I could get maybe a 10 inch board planed with it coming at it from both sides. Not wide enough for a full width drop top.

Which is why in my OP I said I'm looking for sources of relatively affordable drop tops.
 
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#23
topper said:
DIY jigs for turning routers or hand planers into a makeshift surface planer. I know I could go that route, but if I'm going to that much trouble and expense it makes more sense to just buy an inexpensive surface planer.
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I'd beg to differ, and I OWN an inexpensive surface planer. I wouldn't suggest wasting your money on one, unless you have a use-case different from instrument builing or hobbiest woodworking. And if you have a use-case for a surface planer, the inexpensive one will still be a waste of money on the way to buying an expensive one...

A router in an appropriate sled jig can outperform it in may ways, and the router has many other uses.

But go ahead and have fun shopping online for wood, if that's your choice at this time!
 
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#24
topper said:
I've looked at several DIY jigs for turning routers or hand planers into a makeshift surface planer. I know I could go that route, but if I'm going to that much trouble and expense it makes more sense to just buy an inexpensive surface planer. Or for that matter, pay for one of the more expensive ready made drop tops.

I do have a Stew Mac Safety Planer attachment for the drill press. But it's a small drill press. I think I could get maybe a 10 inch board planed with it coming at it from both sides. Not wide enough for a full width drop top.

Which is why in my OP I said I'm looking for sources of relatively affordable drop tops.
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I agree with @T_Bone_TL , a router planing setup is superior to a surface planer right up until you get into the multi-thousand dollar units. And even then in a well-equipped shop, I'd rather use a high quality thickness sander. Router planing is the way to go, even if you do have a lunchbox planer. :thumbsup:

It's a pain in the butt, but you can also use a tablesaw to cut a top, and then go through the remaining piece in the middle with a handsaw. Lots of folks have done that around here. :)

All that said for convenience, I completely understand and endorse just ordering some blanks. :D
 
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#25
micguy said:
On bodies, I taper under the neck pocket (on the back side) so the 2 neck screws at the end of the body (the ones handling the torque from the strings) get about .080” more engagement. I also put in holes for flush mount strap locks and a mode switch.

On necks, I reshape my headstocks.
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On necks from Musikraft, I slightly adjust hook in the facing profile of the headstock, heavily ease/soften the transition area between the back of the headstock and the neck profile behind the nut, and re-contour the transition into the flat-bottom heel.

I'm tempted to try thinning Warmoth bodies down to 1-1/2" and adjusting the tummy cut but that puts me at the fence where I think I might as well make the whole body myself from lumber. There are some very good lumber places around here.

I'm already setting up and equipping my garage to do various projects for home reno, including make cabinetry for 2 bathrooms and 2 kitchens, doors, furniture, etc. Making some bodies wouldn't be a big deal. Eventually I might even dive into making necks.
 
#26
A decent hand saw, either western or eastern, will cut a pretty thick board. This is a 1x8.
20220928_173423.jpg

It took a couple of hours, and I cut a guide slot with my tablesaw.

My planer is only 10" and I could easily make an 18" wide top. (You run both sides through at the same settings) so you don't need a super wide planer.

As far as thicknessing a top, a decent router jig (there's a super thread about them, this is one of them Building: Tools, Fixtures, Jigs & Templates )
Will go a long way for making things flat for a pretty low investment.
 
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#27
Grinderman said:
On necks from Musikraft, I slightly adjust hook in the facing profile of the headstock, heavily ease/soften the transition area between the back of the headstock and the neck profile behind the nut, and re-contour the transition into the flat-bottom heel.

I'm tempted to try thinning Warmoth bodies down to 1-1/2" and adjusting the tummy cut but that puts me at the fence where I think I might as well make the whole body myself from lumber. There are some very good lumber places around here.

I'm already setting up and equipping my garage to do various projects for home reno, including make cabinetry for 2 bathrooms and 2 kitchens, doors, furniture, etc. Making some bodies wouldn't be a big deal. Eventually I might even dive into making necks.
Click to expand...

The Warmoth bodies I get have rear mounted controls - if you take 1/4” off the front, you’ve busted the front wall off the control cavity. If I was gonna do that, I’d take half an inch off, and glue a 1/4” top on, so I’d have a control cavity cover. Take more than 1/8th off the back, and you’re thinning the neck attachment too much for my comfort.

I think that leaves a top routed body as the way to start- that you could take 1/4” off without major issues. Except for the fact that I don’t like pickguards…
 
#32
First off, $60-$75 for a body blank is a fortune. I go to my local lumber yard and buy wood for $6-$8 a board foot. I usually spend around $30-$40 for enough wood to build a blank. My local lumberyard is about 30 minutes away. Luckily, it happens to be near Costco, Guitar Center and my favorite taqueria. Sometimes, I'll go on a wood run and have and Alambre de Pollo with the li'l Lady.

I don't blame you for not wanting to drive for an hour to look for wood, but I haven't had good luck with ordering online. I've had stupidly priced wood arrive that was warped, twisted, or not what was described by the vendor. I'd much rather select the wood personally before I buy it. My exception to that rule is with fretboards - I almost always buy fretboards from LMI (they're extremely reputable and have a great product), and I'm willing to take a chance on other suppliers if it's something I absolutely can't get anywhere else.

A few guys here have already made great suggestions as far as places near you where you could find wood. Keep in mind that I've hung out with furniture guys who drive several states away to buy a single large piece of specialty wood that they're looking for. Hunting and gathering is part of the game.

Steve Burke said:
I too like to look at the wood before buying. This guy has a treasure trove warehouse here in Southern California with many different species and he will rough cut pieces to your dimensions.
Home
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@Steve Burke thanks for the tip. I'm going to have to roll down there one of these days and check that guy out. I'm trying to find a good source for holly.
 
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#33
Yeah, the closest place(es) that actually have interesting lumber (IE not HD or Lowes although I’ve bought walnut and oak there) are about an hour away but, fortunately, I can often sneak by there while I’m working but I have made the trip on a Saturday so I can browse around and not feel like I have to get moving.

I’d also second the opinion to get a good, larger router then a surface planer. A router with a 1/2” collet and a speed control can plane, joint and numerous other operations. Plus, it can even be used to make specific sized and shaped holes in guitar bodies! :D
 
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#34
Videojunkie said:
A decent hand saw, either western or eastern, will cut a pretty thick board. This is a 1x8.
View attachment 4863773
It took a couple of hours, and I cut a guide slot with my tablesaw.
Click to expand...

Slowly and carefully, or ripping with a crosscut saw? (or a dull ripsaw?)

A sharp ripsaw will eat wood like mad, but taking your itime to be sure you're on track is quite reasonable...
 
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#36
In response to the OP, I buy almost all of my "normal" woods (maple, mahogany, etc) off the shelf at the local hardware store (Menards). It takes a bit of patience to go through the whole rack of lumber, and often I leave without finding anything worthwhile, but occasionally you find some real gems.

I might order a specific piece for a fretboard from someplace like woodcraft, but that's the exception, not the rule.
 
#39
Videojunkie said:
In response to the OP, I buy almost all of my "normal" woods (maple, mahogany, etc) off the shelf at the local hardware store (Menards). It takes a bit of patience to go through the whole rack of lumber, and often I leave without finding anything worthwhile, but occasionally you find some real gems.
Click to expand...
Sounds enviable to me. My local hardware store has nothing special. :cautious:

On second thought, that store is only my go-to because it's so damn close, like 5 minutes on bicycle.

Maybe I should give that other place (10 minutes by car) a closer look. :unsure:
 
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