I've got a slight crack in the headstock of my Squier VMP5. I'm worried about it spreading. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix it or at least prevent to crack from spreading?
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First the cause. It looks likely the proper sized pilot holes were not drilled when the tuners were installed (are they factory). That said sometimes it just happens. I would remove the tuners and work some glue into the crack and clamp it. My go to would be a thin hot hide glue but many people use a thin CA glue.
Turnaround
Commercial User
RSBBass may be right about the pilot holes for the screws. But sometimes it's caused by the tuner taking a bit of a hit. It's a really common problem and the solution is to wick some glue in there and clamp it up. Use wood glue, hot hide glue or CA.
They don't appear to be factory installed (original to the bass). You can, clearly, see filled in holes for the original tuning keys.
Turnaround
Commercial User
Clamping this kind of crack can be a challenge because of the asymmetrical shape of the headstock. When it's a crack that does not go all the way through try this method for clamping:
The cracked piece sits on two pieces that run on the backside of the piece parallel to the crack (the red cauls) Below that the black caul spans the two red cauls to apply pressure to them. Topside the green caul is placed over the crack (with a piece of wax paper under it so it doesn't get glued to the workpiece). When pressure is applied, it will tend to squeeze the crack closed.
Feel free to use different coloured cauls.
The cracked piece sits on two pieces that run on the backside of the piece parallel to the crack (the red cauls) Below that the black caul spans the two red cauls to apply pressure to them. Topside the green caul is placed over the crack (with a piece of wax paper under it so it doesn't get glued to the workpiece). When pressure is applied, it will tend to squeeze the crack closed.
Feel free to use different coloured cauls.
Surgical tubing is excellent for clamping irregular shapes.
The part or parts are simply wrapped with the tubing while stretching it. The clamping force can be controlled by the amount of stretching.
The wrap is started by capturing the start end under the first wrap. And is finished by folding a portion of the tubing near the end of the wrap and tucking it under the last wrap.
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The part or parts are simply wrapped with the tubing while stretching it. The clamping force can be controlled by the amount of stretching.
The wrap is started by capturing the start end under the first wrap. And is finished by folding a portion of the tubing near the end of the wrap and tucking it under the last wrap.
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It’s quite telling how that crack leads right to the tuner anchor screw. Chances are the crack will close when you pull the screw. You can put it back in once the tuner is off to open it and wick the glue in. If you’re lucky it will close tight when the screw is removed. If it does, consider the CA glue route. You won’t need to clamp it then.
Roger that. Your best bet is to remove the tuner then re-introduce the anchor screw to widen the fissure. Wick-in the glue of choice then remove the screw. The crack will close to some degree...don't forget to address any run-out. Turnaround's clamping array works like a champ!
Riis
Thank you everyone for your help and advice. Since I don't have the tools or the skills for this job, I'll bring it to a pro.
At least now I have a better understanding of the problem. Thank you again!
At least now I have a better understanding of the problem. Thank you again!
