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Wood & Tronics Club

I dont know for sure never having swapped one out, but I will say that if you're gonna go Hipshot, check out Pete Skjolds oem Hipshot a style. They make a bridge specially for his basses that looks very similar to the ets design. If you ask nice, he may sell you one ;)
 
Just did some tracking with it last night on an upcoming django/swing record. It's got light gauge flats on it now and I'm thrilled with the way it sounds and plays. I recorded it last night thru a Jule Monique and a vintage API preamp, and it sounded heavenly. Can't wait to hear it mixed and mastered!
 
thanks NBK. I will let you know when it comes out. The Billy Sea record is coming along, slowly but surely. we had some setbacks with tracking, and now we're busy comping and editing, but hopefully it wont be too much longer. thanks for your support!
 
Due to me being a complete bass nut/whore... how ever you wanna qualify me... It will 99% be right anyways....

I can now confirm a 6 frettless chronos 34 scale. For early june, It'll be my 5th W&T.... :-D

That's all I know, since I told Enrico to, and I quote

"all the rest is up to you..."


He answered with something like

"i'll make something stupidly flamboyant"

over and out :)
 
Member of this club since a couple of years now...
here is my EJ
 

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I recently sent my W&T to someone who promptly stripped the truss rod nut and sent it back. I got in touch with Enrico and crew, and they were nice enough to send me a replacement bit that is now being installed by my luthier in NYC (Norio Imai). However, the replacement has the same possible issue that the original had - the socket for the truss rod tool is only about 3MM (an eighth of an inch) deep. Do any of you have the same situation or did I simply get an 'off' piece?

At 3MM it is much more likely to strip than at 10MM, I don't see why on such a high end instrument that one piece is so shallow. It makes for a single point of failure that could render the bass unplayable, and can't be more than a 3 or 4 dollar part. If you are careful withyour basses it shouldn't be too much of a problem, but it seems like a problem just waiting to happen.

Anyway, does anyone else have that same super shallow nut socket or do you get more like 10MM of insertion into the socket with the tool? I would rather think I got a piece that somehow missed being rejected as out of spec.
 
Dans not a dealer anymore and I believe he sold the last couple he had in stock. As far as I know there aren't any us dealers right now, but basses can be ordered direct and shipped over, as both of mine were. Best bet is to email or Skype Enrico from wood and tronics, unless I'm out of the loop, which has been known to happen :-)
 
Can't really offer much except to say that the channel is deeper on one of mine than the other, but both are sufficient, and there isnt much chance of stripping it IMO.

I think it comes down to the user - if you try to adjust the truss rod with the strings at full tension, you could be in for a rude surprise ;)

Are there any W&T dealers in the States? I'm seriously looking at getting one of these but would rather purchase one more "local".

I'd consider parting with mine, as I'm looking at a Fodera at the moment that is making me crazy lol You can shoot me a PM if you're interested, no pressure.
 
Killer Pics!

Of the two, which bass do you prefer? I noticed they both have different bridges on them, does that make them play any different as far a tension or feel? They both look like 33'' scale lengths? solid body and chambered I assume.

I'm considering a chambered bass, any thoughts on them?

thanks for sharing some pics of your fine W&T basses!
 
Thanks, theyre actually quite different, although they share the same electronics (Dolf dual coils, and East SP2). The Poplar topped bass is 34", neck thru, chambered, while the redwood topped bass is 33", bolt on, and semi hollow. I like them both very much, and with flats on the HB, it has a very large and clear woody tone. I use them both pretty regularly for slightly different things.

The 2 piece bridge is a custom W&T bridge, I chose that when ETS was no longer an available option. The ETS tuning fork bridge on the poplar bass is great, I like the custom one as well, very well made. (it was tough to find flats that can handle the breaking angle of those thru-body string ferrules, but luckily LaBella makes a set of flats that are designed for "string thru body" bridges, essentially, the B string is tapered and silk wrapped so it won't seperate from the torsion).

I'm obviously a fan of chambered instruments, they seem to have a little more resonance and bloom in the note attack. I could see how it would not suit some players/styles, but I really like that added dimension for the stuff I do.