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Wooden Control Knob Tutorial
- Thread starter Tdog
- Start date
- Jun 6, 2004
- 6,351
- 543
- 66
- Disclosures
- Owner and builder Clementbass
Things are OK we are a big soggy but at least no fires or hurricanes ....yet....
Fort Myers is a ways from me I am in-between Daytona Beach and Orlando
No fires or hurricanes...Wait for a while, that'll change!
I just made these this AM.....Deer Antler!.....Should look really cool on the right instrument.
Attachments
- Jun 6, 2004
- 6,351
- 543
- 66
- Disclosures
- Owner and builder Clementbass
Very nice work and very informative!! ....I just wish I had a lathe!! I do have a question about the setscrew,do you think a #6-32 size tap would work? As an electrician I've got all kinds of taps,even a wratcheting tap handle but that's the smallest size tap I've got.If you think that would work I've even got a tool to cut(shear) the screw to length without messing up the threads.
Thanks for the great info on this thread!!!
Thanks for the great info on this thread!!!
Great thread and work. Not to be a drag but I question the use of cocobola - most people are have negative reactions to the oils/resins in it, which is why it isn't generally used for things that make bodily contact. Sweaty hands could have issues. I have a sweet block of cocobola someone gave me but I have yet to use it for that reason. Beautiful, heavy wood though.
CrashClint
I Play Bass therefore I Am
It is the dust created when working with Cocobolo that can cause skin and respiratory reactions. Some people CAN develop allergies to woods like walnuts and rosewoods.
"Negative reactions" do not occur by simply touching finished Cocobolo, even with sweaty hands....(There may be a rare case of contact dermatitis, but I'm not a doctor).......FYI....Fretboards and fingerboards are commonly made from Coco.
Bottom line.....Use proper precautions when working with Cocobolo, the dust can be nasty........BUT!......It is not like you are working with a radioactive isotope!
I wasn't knocking your work or anything, your technique and finished products are fantastic. I was just throwing it out there for those unaware of the possibility so they might remember and use a little extra precaution. Your knobs once waxed/oil or other wise coated would be fairly inert I'm thinking. You have inspired me to consider taking the tablesaw outside and chopping my gifted chunk up. It currently is a very humped-back turtle about 10" long - incredibly heavy but it really looks meh, especially the overly thin head.. Probably could make a dozen knobs once the main body is squared up. I'll get my popcorn and be quiet now.
Peace.Well done I must day. Sorry for reviving an old thread but I couldn't help with an idea I had related to this. For merit, I'm a former machinist of 20 years turned computer geek. If this were my project I'd do it a little differently.
I'd purchase narrow inexpensive yet heavy knobs since they already have an internal spline. I'd take most of what was exemplified here, but I'd instead machine a wooden "jacket" over the metal knobs. This way you could use standard garage tooling (and shims for symmitry if you need them) to affix the wood over the top of the metal knobs. This will also provide a nice weighty feel. I'm going to do exactly this for my SR755!
I'd purchase narrow inexpensive yet heavy knobs since they already have an internal spline. I'd take most of what was exemplified here, but I'd instead machine a wooden "jacket" over the metal knobs. This way you could use standard garage tooling (and shims for symmitry if you need them) to affix the wood over the top of the metal knobs. This will also provide a nice weighty feel. I'm going to do exactly this for my SR755!
That deer antler one looks great, I have an antler sitting here, I think I'm going to try that!
I'm working on a way to make natural looking knobs - a maple branch. I cut it into sections and add a layer of accent wood to the top. I'm not done with these and still working out the process, but so far it's looking pretty good. My biggest problem is that a branch is not perfectly round, so no matter where you put the hole it's not going to rotate perfectly. I'm not sure that's a problem, but some may not like it.
I'm working on a way to make natural looking knobs - a maple branch. I cut it into sections and add a layer of accent wood to the top. I'm not done with these and still working out the process, but so far it's looking pretty good. My biggest problem is that a branch is not perfectly round, so no matter where you put the hole it's not going to rotate perfectly. I'm not sure that's a problem, but some may not like it.
