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Worst Neckdive You've Experienced

I put Hipshot USA Ultralites on my JC a few weeks ago. It removed over a half pound from the headstock and *almost* completely eliminated the neck dive.
Besides the weight savings they are simply better quality tuning machines than the stock ones. Money well spent. I'm very happy with them.

As @vegas532 said, the Ultralites will leave the screw holes from the original tuners exposed. I thought it would drive me crazy and I talked to my luthier about it. For $50 he can fill the holes (with white inlay material since the bass is white) but really, any fill material on any color bass will still be visible. Surprisingly I found the holes don't bother me at all. If they ever start bugging me I can get them filled.

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I also added a Hipshot Supertone bridge. Love it!

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Try using the"we're moving out of our apartment and we don't wanna lose our deposit 'cause of nail holes" trick- Toothpaste(or spackle)but the tooth paste is white.:thumbsup:
 
I put Hipshot USA Ultralites on my JC a few weeks ago. It removed over a half pound from the headstock and *almost* completely eliminated the neck dive.
Besides the weight savings they are simply better quality tuning machines than the stock ones. Money well spent. I'm very happy with them.

As @vegas532 said, the Ultralites will leave the screw holes from the original tuners exposed. I thought it would drive me crazy and I talked to my luthier about it. For $50 he can fill the holes (with white inlay material since the bass is white) but really, any fill material on any color bass will still be visible. Surprisingly I found the holes don't bother me at all. If they ever start bugging me I can get them filled.

View attachment 3033601

View attachment 3033602

I also added a Hipshot Supertone bridge. Love it!

View attachment 3033612

View attachment 3033604
Thanks for that, cool photos. The hipshots don’t look out of place, and even the holes aren’t too bad. At least they look symmetrical.
My JC is white too, but still with pickguard. That black bridge really looks great.
 
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I hear a variety of reports on Gibson EBs (0s and 3s). I own an Epi EB-0, but is is a completely different animal, with the (feels like) structural concrete body and bolt on neck.

On the originals: is it production year/series specific (ie: stamped bridge, slot head, middle pickup) that steers the balance of the bass or was it a grab bag during any era, simply reflecting whatever slab of wood they grabbed when they cut it out?

I've always loved the EB bass balls, but they turn up rarely locally. You can't see balance in an online listing.
 
....You can't see balance in an online listing.
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Very true.

And I reckon that it is mostly determined by the density of the slab of wood from which the body is cut.

This also seems to hold true with Fenders, and any other solid body basses & guitars, and less so with semi-acoustic models, because makers can achieve more consistency in the smaller pieces of wood which are involved.
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Very true.

And I reckon that it is mostly determined by the density of the slab of wood from which the body is cut.

This also seems to hold true with Fenders, and any other solid body basses & guitars, and less so with semi-acoustic models, because makers can achieve more consistency in the smaller pieces of wood which are involved.
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Yes, body density (and wood species) influences balance on a strap, but many other factors do as well, including: body size - thickness and shape, bridge and electronics hardware, scale length, tuner weight, neck material, truss rod weight, and location of strap pins, both upper and lower. It's a tricky thing to make a bass that hangs well, and this thread is proof not all of them do :).
 
Yes, body density (and wood species) influences balance on a strap, but many other factors do as well, including: body size - thickness and shape, bridge and electronics hardware, scale length, tuner weight, neck material, truss rod weight, and location of strap pins, both upper and lower. It's a tricky thing to make a bass that hangs well, and this thread is proof not all of them do :).
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I am not disputing any of that.

However, IIRC, the post to which I was replying was comparing instruments of the same make and model, in which case most/all of the other variances would be less likely to have happened than inconsistent slab weight, and that was all I was pointing out.
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I am not disputing any of that.

However, IIRC, the post to which I was replying was comparing instruments of the same make and model, in which case most/all of the other variances would be less likely to have happened than inconsistent slab weight, and that was all I was pointing out.
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No disagreement intended here either, but this thread has wandered some and, for some reason I no longer recall, I thought a summary would be helpful :rolleyes:
 
Some T-Birds are worse than others but basically any bass that has an upper bout that doesn't get out close to the 12th fret is likely to neck dive a bit, it's just basic physics. This one (Epi Pro V T-Bird) is the worst I've ever had hands on (neck through, laminated walnut and maple neck with mahogany wings, 11+ lbs total) but I found a very simple fix, which I've posted in various threads before. Works like a charm now and balances perfectly.
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Some T-Birds are worse than others but basically any bass that has an upper bout that doesn't get out close to the 12th fret is likely to neck dive a bit, it's just basic physics. This one (Epi Pro V T-Bird) is the worst I've ever had hands on (neck through, laminated walnut and maple neck with mahogany wings, 11+ lbs total) but I found a very simple fix, which I've posted in various threads before. Works like a charm now and balances perfectly.
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Where would one get that Steinberger part?