Double Bass Yamaha SLB300 New model

[TimothyGroovy]

If you crank up the Avalon to get the same level as heard on the first part of the clip, do you have some hiss/noise?

Noise introduce when preamp engaged no matter what kind of outboard gears I'm using.

 

[HateyMcAmp]

I recently got a new SLB300 and I’d say I can definitely hear some floor noise when the mic simulations are engaged. It’s much more noticeable through my headphone amp than it is through my amp. Whether this will be a practical problem for me remains to be seen.

I’ve used it on one performance so far, a 500ish cap club gig with quality sound system. I only use the Yamaha’s built in electronics for arco on this gig, but my bandmate commented on how great the bowed sound was when I was warming up. I didn’t hear and him coming through the monitor, and the sound person didn’t comment on any hum.

I also used it for a recording session where the primary sound was my magnetic pickup, but I also sent a line from the Yamaha’s internal electronics for an experiment and to have something to potentially blend. The engineer didn’t comment on any intrusive hum, but I’ll be sure to listen back to those tracks isolated and see if I can hear anything overly noisy.

 

[Francois Blais]

Noise introduce when preamp engaged no matter what kind of outboard gears I'm using.

I meant: with the SLB preamp disengaged, and cranking the Avalon to get the same relative level as heard on the first part of the clip, do you have some hiss/noise?

 

[TimothyGroovy]

I meant: with the SLB preamp disengaged, and cranking the Avalon to get the same relative level as heard on the first part of the clip, do you have some hiss/noise?

no, noise level is significant drop whenever the preamp disengage and use the piezo only. Thanks.
I can always disengage the pre but it becomes pointless like what I stated in the post, part of the reasons I purchased the slb300 is because of their pre.

 

[uprightbass.com]

What if find uniquely different is that unlike bass guitar pre’s turning down the volume on the SLB actually doesn’t reduce the noise floor as well. In other words, the noise floor stays constant but the signal decreases. So I keep the volume at max because turning down the volume and turning up any input gain results in more noise.

When is max out the volume I find the noise level acceptable an in fact no greater than a quality bass guitar onboard pre (as compared to my Audere set flat)

I can see how this would be an issue and not possible to do if your preamp has no attenuator and clips unless you turn the SLB’s volume down.

 

[Eric Swanson]

Update on my new SLB300; bowed neck, Yamaha is replacing (yay for Yamaha's warranty department!). Added a couple of accessories.

Due to the bowed neck, the bass is tough to play.View attachment 4821343 View attachment 4821344 View attachment 4821345

. . .

I can't say enough about how pleasant and helpful Yamaha's Warranty Department has been. I'm grateful for that . . .

Update is a very happy ending.

After Yamaha happily replaced the instrument with the bowed neck, I took it to an profoundly able, creative, and resourceful Boston bass luthier Gian Pangaro Studio Pangaro — String Instrument Repair, Restoration, and Design

Gian did a wonderfully-thoughtful setup that replicates the string length, string spacing, feel, and curves of my DB. Now when I go from instrument to instrument, all the notes are in the same places. The instrument play and feel the same.

He skillfully:
- Extended the bridge well to create the same string length as I have on my DB, then painted the well black; happily the "D" orientation still works well at the neck heel
- Added a Saddle Rider endpin socket (the stock socket didn't have enough support to have the endpin out as far as I need it for my tallness)
- Made a custom-milled and blackened steel plate to support the endpin socket and hold the bass together at that high-stress area
- Changed the string spacing to the 1-1/16" I like and increased the curve of the bridge to facilitate bowing
- Re-dressed the rosewood fingerboard to be a bit rounder from side to side and a bit flatter end to end for easier playing
- Filed the nut so the lowest positions work much easier

I added a new steel tube from Online Metals (aluminum was flexing too much) Invalid Link Removed, blackened it with steel blackener from Jax Chemical JAX Iron, Steel and Nickel Blackener - JAX Chemical Company, and epoxied on a New Harmony tip/ball combination Bass Tips – New Harmony Music Bass Balls – New Harmony Music

I still have to make a collapsible lower bout for my left knee, while standing. That will take some head scratching.

But for now, I couldn't be happier. When I close my eyes and play, it feels like my DB.

Many thanks to Yamaha's customer service and Gian Pangaro! Great work by both, from start to finish!

I feel very lucky . . .

 

[TimothyGroovy]

Update is a very happy ending.

After Yamaha happily replaced the instrument with the bowed neck, I took it to an profoundly able, creative, and resourceful Boston bass luthier Gian Pangaro Studio Pangaro — String Instrument Repair, Restoration, and Design

Gian did a wonderfully-thoughtful setup that replicates the string length, string spacing, feel, and curves of my DB. Now when I go from instrument to instrument, all the notes are in the same places. The instrument play and feel the same.

He skillfully:
- Extended the bridge well to create the same string length as I have on my DB, then painted the well black; happily the "D" orientation still works well at the neck heel
- Added a Saddle Rider endpin socket (the stock socket didn't have enough support to have the endpin out as far as I need it for my tallness)
- Made a custom-milled and blackened steel plate to support the endpin socket and hold the bass together at that high-stress area
- Changed the string spacing to the 1-1/16" I like and increased the curve of the bridge to facilitate bowing
- Re-dressed the rosewood fingerboard to be a bit rounder from side to side and a bit flatter end to end for easier playing
- Filed the nut so the lowest positions work much easier

I added a new steel tube from Online Metals (aluminum was flexing too much) Invalid Link Removed, blackened it with steel blackener from Jax Chemical JAX Iron, Steel and Nickel Blackener - JAX Chemical Company, and epoxied on a New Harmony tip/ball combination Bass Tips – New Harmony Music Bass Balls – New Harmony Music

I still have to make a collapsible lower bout for my left knee, while standing. That will take some head scratching.

But for now, I couldn't be happier. When I close my eyes and play, it feels like my DB.

Many thanks to Yamaha's customer service and Gian Pangaro! Great work by both, from start to finish!

I feel very lucky . . . View attachment 4892657 View attachment 4892658 View attachment 4892657 View attachment 4892658 View attachment 4892659 View attachment 4892660 View attachment 4892661 View attachment 4892662 View attachment 4892663 View attachment 4892664

Would you mind how much this service costs you? Thanks!

 

[Slim Pickins]

 

[gtmalone]

Very nice!

 

[Neon Scribe]

The tuner for the A string on my SLB300 took a hit. It is bent, but it still operates. It still seems quite sturdy. I expect I can leave it alone, but if the day comes when it must be replaced, what can I use as a replacement?

 

[bradd]

I'd find someone who could straighten and solder the key.

 

[Neon Scribe]

I'd find someone who could straighten and solder the key.

No, it's definitely better to leave well enough alone. Bending it back could only shorten its life.

 

[Wasnex]

No, it's definitely better to leave well enough alone. Bending it back could only shorten its life.

I believe the Yamaha P/Ns for the tuners can be found in this thread: What replacement tuners for a Yamaha SLB200?

Here are the P/Ns

VCG85600
VCG85700​

The thread also points references for other tuners that may work.

I suggest ordering a new part, and possibly some spares. I don't know about how well Yamaha support currently is. Based on my experience long ago, it may take a while.

Looks like you may need to create an account (click on the link titled "US Consumers" at the top of this page: Yamaha (yamaha24x7.com)

Also, from the bottom of this page: Ordering Parts and Manuals - Yamaha - United States

"In order to use the Yamaha 24x7 parts order website, you will need to know the Yamaha part number(s) you would like to order. If you do not know your part number(s), please contact us for assistance by dialing (888) 892-6242, Monday through Friday, from 7:30AM - 5:00PM Pacific Time (closed 12PM - 1PM)."

Good Luck!

 

[Hasty]

The tuner for the A string on my SLB300 took a hit. It is bent, but it still operates. It still seems quite sturdy. I expect I can leave it alone, but if the day comes when it must be replaced, what can I use as a replacement?

View attachment 4906404

You can call Yamaha and get a direct replacement.

if you scroll back a few pages in this thread some did a pretty cool machine upgrade that looked really nice with some aftermarket machines.

 

[bradd]

No, it's definitely better to leave well enough alone. Bending it back could only shorten its life.

I've done it on several occasions. What's the worst that can happen? It needs to be replaced? Well, leaving it as it is isn't going to last long either.

 

[El Thumpo]

You can call Yamaha and get a direct replacement.

if you scroll back a few pages in this thread some did a pretty cool machine upgrade that looked really nice with some aftermarket machines.

That was me. Still loving my upgrade, btw.

I still haven't reviewed my SLB300 yet, because I'm too busy playing it! But here's a post on the tweaks I've made, which as far as I'm concerned tipped it from being an intriguing novelty into a genuine workhorse instrument.

First of all, I purchased the extension frame, which fits the 200 models as well. Keeps it from twisting away and deepens the pivot point against your body, getting it closer to double bass ergonomics. I bought mine on Ebay for about a hundred bucks.
View attachment 4701018

Getting there! But I was still frustrated with what I've found to be a common problem with electric uprights: the tuners. They're almost always glorified electric bass tuners, and the ones on the SLBs are no exception. You're never getting the fine control over the string length and tension that upright tuners are designed for. So I bought a set of Roth & Junius Deluxe Machines from Thomann, hoping I could just swap out the old tuners and drop them in.
View attachment 4701021

Well no, I couldn't. It was going to take some reaming and shimming, as I discovered when I put it in the extremely capable hands of Matt Bohn, The Bass Doctor, who has his workshop in the hills above Santa Cruz, California. If you live within a 200-mile radius of the guy, I'd consider it worth the trip.

Matt carefully considered their placement and position, because the SLB peghead is small and crowded. But he figured it out, and I couldn't be happier with the result.

View attachment 4701030 View attachment 4701031

Not only do they tune beautifully (and look beautiful), their extra mass makes the SLB feel more like an acoustic upright under your fingers. There's a presence, a heft, that was otherwise missing. Still fits in the carrying case just fine.

Seriously, one of my least-regretted purchases in a long while. Combined with the extension frame, it's a significant upgrade in look, feel, and playability. 10/10 would recommend.

 

[BucketOfFish]

Could the short battery life listed on the specs page be a mistake? It also says the fingerboard material is rosewood. I can’t imagine Yamaha using rosewood instead of ebony on these. The short battery life could be a deal breaker. I really hope they copy pasted the wrong numbers when entering the battery hours.

two different models of the 300. ebony on the PRO and rosewood on the other, also curly maple on the pro neck. see "specs" on the site.

 

[Hasty]

two different models of the 300. ebony on the PRO and rosewood on the other, also curly maple on the pro neck. see "specs" on the site.

I believe that post predates the announcement and release of the Pro model.

 

[HateyMcAmp]

What strings are y’all using on your Silent Basses? Has anyone experimented with Evahs?

I recently tried a really dead set (think like 4 years old with a hundred on-offs) of Evah Weich on my Yamaha SLB300. Huge upgrade in sound and feel on this bass from the Perpetuals I started out with (didn’t have the stock helicore light strings on long enough to get an impression, other than they felt very similar to the perps.) The perps started out VERY bright and were honky in the transition area at first. They seemed to have a lot of clankiness and unpleasant finger noise. This got better as they broke in and the bass sounded good, but there was some inherit thinness/hollowness/clank to the sound, particularly in thumb position. I tried the stark D+G too and that didn’t help.

I think the darker, thicker nature of the Evahs really brings out something good on the bass and provides a good fundamental along with some pleasant sustain and good pitch definition. They don’t feel too tight on my bass, either. About the same as the perps with the Stark D+G tension-wise. I’ve been impressed enough to order a new set, and I’m excited to break them in from the beginning on this bass.

 

[Martin Spure]

I have an MK Studio EUB, which in many ways are (almost) similar to the Yamaha’s and I use Evah Medium/Mittel and I have the same experience as you. They’re really great for EUB and gives me a nice ‘Thump’ in the attack and a quite short decay. Tension wise they might feel just a tad tight, so my next set will be Evah Weichs, which I also have on my DB.

For an even thumpier/short decay/old school sound, something like the Ninomute (or you could DIY a similar contraption with some sleeping mat foam, see below) is quite effective.