An Audere preamp doesn't have the additional two differential preamps onboard to handle the hum-cancelling setup.
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An Audere preamp doesn't have the additional two differential preamps onboard to handle the hum-cancelling setup.
Plus the electronics power consumption decreased a lot.
What happens if you wire the dummy coil with the signal coil ? I believe it cancels the hum, unlike the TRB 1st gen (the coils were coiled the same way on the 1st gen not the 2nd gen). Also hum tests should be carried out with one pup only (in case the other cancels the hum like on a JB but I'm not sure on a TRBII).
Both of my TRB6IIs and my TRB5IIF basses don't drain the battery that fast. Faster than most of my other active basses but lets say about 3-4 months on a single 9v alcaline battery (at least 150-200 hours if you play it about 2 hours a day). Now this thread deserves some fresh TRB pics!
Cheers!
Cheers!
This is mine, a brand new TRB1006j, it is a little on the heavy side but sounds amazing live and even better in studio:
Too much GAS... I must resist...
Actually I really want a TRB like yours (and same color
) but the 5 string version. My main concern is the weight...
Hey, nice ! What are those fleur de lis/lilly flower inlays on your fretted TRBII ?
It is built to resist a nuclear mayhem, so expect some heavyness hheeheheToo much GAS... I must resist...
Actually I really want a TRB like yours (and same color
Stickers from the previous owner. Too lazy to remove them from the fingerboard but they look nice to me. Here's a closeup pic:
Too much GAS... I must resist...
Actually I really want a TRB like yours (and same color
I have a TRB1005j - exact same colour as his. It's not too bad. Mine is about 9 pounds and I use a RightOn strap. I've never had a problem with its weight and I was pretty sick for a while back when I got it around 2011. TRBs in general (including most of the later Japanese models) ended up being quite heavy. Mine is lighter than my friend's late TRB5pII.
The five string model only has a single (dual acting) truss-rod.
My TRB6II chews through batteries fast too, they last only a few months compared to 12 months on the Sadowsky. But I tend to replace batteries every 6 months by default anyway. Great to know the Yamaha can be wired passive if need be. I quite like the sound of the preamp, just a little low bump hits the spot for me.
Every so often, someone asks about what strings folks recommend on TRB basses. I currently have Ken Smith Compressors on both my TRB-5II and my TRB-6P, and my goodness - these are great strings! They are fatter, thicker, and warmer than the Fodera Stainless Steels that I had on before that, but can still have enough brightness up top to be good for slap. (The Fodera SS steels reminded me a lot of the DR Fat Beams I had on my TRB-5II before that). @Versatek6 mentioned that Jason from FretNation had recommended the GHS Pressurewounds - Jason recommended those and the Ken Smith Compressors to me. (He said they're very similar-sounding strings, but he recommended going with a tapered low B and GHS doesn't offer a tapered low B on the Pressurewounds).
It took me a day or two to grow to like them on the two basses that I've put them on - had to find slightly different preamp settings and the like - but now I'm a big fan!
It took me a day or two to grow to like them on the two basses that I've put them on - had to find slightly different preamp settings and the like - but now I'm a big fan!
Hey Marty, I just realized why this is working for you. Your bass does not have single-coils with the cancelling coils. Yours has regular dual-coil humbuckers. That's why you can run it without the preamp. If you look at the preamp circuit board, you'll see that your pickups only wire up to half of the pads and there are no cancellation adjustment controls on the board.
So if anyone else wants to do what you did, they have to double check that there are no cancellation controls on the circuit (or they're not actually wired to anything.) If there aren't, then they have regular humbuckers, not the single-coils with cancellation coils.
Also, you can pull the pickups out and you should find something missing underneath - under mine there is actually a pickup pointing into the body - and that's the canceling coil. On yours, both coils should be up inside the pickup housing.
Yamaha had a couple different pickup designs for the TRB basses over the years, and some fit into the exact same casing.
I believe they're also Nickel-Iron Alloy windings, which may give you more midrange.
They used to be Jerry Jemmot's favourite string. May still be.
I've tried SS strings on various basses over the years, but could not get over the weird midrange scoop they all seem to have. For me it's always been Nickel or NPS.
I use DR Nickel Lo-Riders, by the way.
The TRBII preamp does have cancellation control through VR7 and VR8 on the electronic diagram. The difference with TRB is that the coils are inverted in the pickup so no need to invert them before cancellation. Presumably if you wire the two coils together you'll be pretty good with noise cancellation, the controls being there for fine tuning (that's how I understand it but I may be wrong).
Yeah, now I'm not 100% sure. VR7 and VR8 are the two controls on the board that control the hum-cancelling on that board. I guess I'll walk my assuredness back a bit. The schematics for both the TR1004 and the TRB4II show the pickups wired to VR7 and VR8 the same way. so maybe he's running them at 50/50 passive and they're just humbucking like a jazz bass at 50/50 blend. On the preamp, the blend happens after the two pickups have already gone through their own powered circuit where the noise canceller is.
On other models, the same (or very similar) board is used, but those control pots are actually missing from the board. I think the Pattituci II board was like that - it has linear humbuckers and requires no cancelation circuit.
Hey guys! glad I found this thread. I own a 1992 TRB-6P , I liked it a lot but it feels like its getting old. Unbalanced volume (perception) between strings, lack of output overall. But really clean sounding. Awesome Low B.
Is it worth it to move to the new TRBJP2 ? has it been upgraded that much to spend 4k (CAD)?
Or I might just keep my TRB6P as a collectible (even though its been modified, Darkglass preamp, bridge changes and tuners) and go with a nice Ibanez BTB 1936 ? those basses seem to be awesome too on the spec sheet
What are your thoughts ? havent got the chance to try any of those around here
Thanks!
Is it worth it to move to the new TRBJP2 ? has it been upgraded that much to spend 4k (CAD)?
Or I might just keep my TRB6P as a collectible (even though its been modified, Darkglass preamp, bridge changes and tuners) and go with a nice Ibanez BTB 1936 ? those basses seem to be awesome too on the spec sheet
What are your thoughts ? havent got the chance to try any of those around here
Thanks!
I just recently equipped my TRB 6 II, with Rotosound Stainless Steels. Compared to DR Sunbeams, they gives the bass a little more attack, so moves to “vintage like“ territory...and the .35 diameter makes the high C fatter, bolder sounding...
Interesting frankie5string. I had a look, and one side sticks out more and fits into a recess in the pickup routing, so... the plot thickens. Also, if I wire the white lead to hot with the red lead it does not work, only works if the white lead connects to earth. This says to me that I'm earthing the dummy coil, if it was a humbucker the white lead would surely be hot?
Anyways, I love this bass, it is like a Ferrari. My Fender P and Fender J are like 40's pickup trucks. LOL!
