It's either a 1005 or a 1005J... Great base - I've had mine for years and I still love it.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
It's either a 1005 or a 1005J... Great base - I've had mine for years and I still love it.
Love seeing these recordings, y’all! Please keep them coming! I’d particularly love to see more of the 1st Gen bolt-on TRB-x series, but I’m enjoying them all!
On the 1005J: Smoked (instead of plain silver) hardware, 5 piece neck instead of 3, slightly updated active preamp that's a bit less hissy.
That's one of my records with my TRB 6 II
Very cool; great playing! I dig the tune.
What’s your setup here? (What strings are you using? Are your pickups stock? Are you using any pedals? Do you happen to know what onboard settings got you in the neighborhood of that tone? Did they record you direct, or direct + amp?).
John Patitucci w/ Chick Corea, 1992, with a TRB6P:
I really wish Yamaha would release some of the cool models they made for Nathan East, like this updated one-off TRB6P:
Thank You! I’m happy you like it!
In that time, I used DR Sunbeams strings, Medium Gauge. I shared this here, because on this record there is no amp, just goes direct to an Avalon U5 Tube DI, no pedals, the Bass has its original pickups and pre, the settings, as most of the time I using, bass=flat, mid-flat, treble all away down, the bass has more than enough highs in that way, so I don’t think it cut….
At the mixing, no amp simulation used, only compressor, I think LA2A, SSL EQ UAD plugin only a little more high cut somewhere, because there was a little fret buzz, this bass should refretting….and sometime this sound engineer guy used a hint of chorus H3000 on bass, but I’m not sure on this record….
Not sure if I posted mine before, so practice makes perfect. Actually, I should practice more...
Hi,
Lately I became drawn to Yamaha TRBs, mainly because of 35" scale, 24 frets and classic looks. I really want to get a TRB 5 II MIJ, but unsure about the electronics. Currently I have a Sire V7 and I use the preamp rarely, if ever. My question is, how feasible it is to mod a passive switch to TRB 5II? I'm talking about the old Japanese TRB 5 IIs, not the Patitucci models or the newer TRBs. Thanks.
Lately I became drawn to Yamaha TRBs, mainly because of 35" scale, 24 frets and classic looks. I really want to get a TRB 5 II MIJ, but unsure about the electronics. Currently I have a Sire V7 and I use the preamp rarely, if ever. My question is, how feasible it is to mod a passive switch to TRB 5II? I'm talking about the old Japanese TRB 5 IIs, not the Patitucci models or the newer TRBs. Thanks.
When I bought my TRB 6 II MIJ, the preamp was not original, but I put back an original preamp, I dont explain the process, but there was few days when, no peeamp was in the bass and pickup was wired passive….
This pickup really designed, to work with the orginal preamp, the output was very low without the preamp.
This pickup really designed, to work with the orginal preamp, the output was very low without the preamp.
This is a good question. I recently got a new TRB JP 2, and I was wondering if anyone had been able to modify it with a passive/active push pull on the volume knob? This can be a lifesaver if the battery dies during a gig, (it has happened to me on other active basses) or their are no shops open nearby to get a new battery (always wise to carry a spare though). This would seem like a no brainer for all solely active basses.
My TRB 6 II doesn’t eats batteries fast, I use long life Varta batteries, and allways keep two of them in the gigbag…..I hear when the battery starts to die, it doesn’t stop working immediately, just started distorting, and produce some strange noises, and I know time to change battery…
Otherwise I don’t think is easy to modify the preamp….
Hi y'all,
Complete Yamaha noob here other than knowledge on thew awesome SBV series and BB, I want to get into the TRB series as my true up there bass. I was eyeing the TRB1004J, however it's a little bit out of budget as of now for me, so I was thinking the TRBX604FM, what are your thoughts and any upgrades done to it? I was thinking down the line for me to do a pickup upgrade. Do you think they compare to the TRB1004J or is it something different? I want something versatile, I'm not a tone-chaser or traditionalist so I like to look to it as a something that can fit it anything. I play for fun, record for fun, jam for fun and if there's money in it, it's just enough money to fund food LOL. So this isn't a pro setup or anything is what I'm getting at. Anyway, thanks for the help anyone gives. Appreciate y'all!
Complete Yamaha noob here other than knowledge on thew awesome SBV series and BB, I want to get into the TRB series as my true up there bass. I was eyeing the TRB1004J, however it's a little bit out of budget as of now for me, so I was thinking the TRBX604FM, what are your thoughts and any upgrades done to it? I was thinking down the line for me to do a pickup upgrade. Do you think they compare to the TRB1004J or is it something different? I want something versatile, I'm not a tone-chaser or traditionalist so I like to look to it as a something that can fit it anything. I play for fun, record for fun, jam for fun and if there's money in it, it's just enough money to fund food LOL. So this isn't a pro setup or anything is what I'm getting at. Anyway, thanks for the help anyone gives. Appreciate y'all!
Hi all,
Wondered if anyone knew the reason for the early trb5p basses having slightly different bridge positions. I know the 5pII was 35", but did they make the 5p in 34 then 35?
Hopefully the pictures make it clearer what I mean...
Thanks.
Wondered if anyone knew the reason for the early trb5p basses having slightly different bridge positions. I know the 5pII was 35", but did they make the 5p in 34 then 35?
Hopefully the pictures make it clearer what I mean...
Thanks.
Well, in the second case, the upper horn strap attachment is at the 12th fret which is a better balance point than in the first case: the 13th fret.
Indeed. I'm wondering whether they "set the neck" a bit deeper in the body for balance purposes and obviously the bridge position would need to move to compensate, but its just not clear if there is increased scale length too. To my eye it does appear that the scale might be different because the bridge seems to have moved further towards the bottom of the body than the 24th fret has moved in the same direction.
