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Double Bass Yamahiko Double Bass Pickup

Been dialing in the Yamahiko lately and heres a few interesting points about having two: first when they are bridged they need a higher impedance (20mohm) when they are single they don't (10 or 5 or 1Mohm). The bridged version can be really useful with the right imp setting and a good MAS type cab. Blending the two pickups independently yields a lot of tonal variation. This is all made possible by the microdot connectors that are badass and make this system so modular. I think more people should get the two pickup version and experiment. Since basses and rooms are so different, it makes sense to have this system with it's discrete adaptable possibilities.
There are a ton of pickups that try to get into the leg of the bridge, but with this system the pickup is in the shaft of the adjuster so it is in the middle of the center of where it should be, embedded in wood (not hanging off it like the gage or in the wheel of the adjuster like the FC) and then you get one in each leg.
The advantage of mixing them separately, with a 2 ch. preamp, is that even if you keep the eq flat for both, you can HPF and control the blend separately which adds tons of dimension to the sound (3/4 E side to 1/4 G works great on my bass) and you can change that for the room. You can also set the imp differently as a kind of bass eq.
 
can't tell if you are joking? Kiyohiko make the original version which I have (metric 8mm) and now he makes the 1/4 in thread which I asked him to make for the US market because it is the most common here. He is one guy, making pickups without compromise. I never heard of a 5/8in thread on an adjuster unless it is that weird wooden thing that Kolstein makes (I have played basses with them and I dont think they work very well and weaken the bridge)...but I just remembered that you got the Busetto...does it have the wooden adjusters?
The Yamahiko works great on the small bass, the E side has way fat bass and the G side way mid clarity. Highly recommend.
 
Sorry, meant 5/16"...not enough coffee when I posted that.

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yeah just the two that I know of....hey what kind of strings are you using on the busetto?

Spiro reds. Currently the E and G are 3885 and the D and A are S42. Wish I had ordered a full set of 3885. I struggle a bit with the floppiness of the strings because of the slight difference in scale compared to Dominants on a 41.5" scale.

Have you asked your teacher what size your threads are, Chris?

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A question to those with an original 8mm Yamahiko:

Does the Yamahiko thread go into the wood or is there a threaded metal insert in the bridge foot?

I got a used Yamahiko and found the one-page sheet for installation and it looks like that the thread goes into the wood with no insert.
On the other hand my 6mm Full Circle did come with a threaded metal insert and my original 6mm brass adjusters had them too.

I just want to ask to make sure how it needs to be installed.


And one more:

Has anyone installed the Yamahiko threads up?
(The mounting sheet shows threads down.)
 
yes. It isn't that complicated. I hope you have the dummy adjuster (the matching non pickup adjuster?) the shaft is kinda long so make sure there is enough leg on your bridge so that it does not poke out the bottom...
 
yes. It isn't that complicated. I hope you have the dummy adjuster (the matching non pickup adjuster?) the shaft is kinda long so make sure there is enough leg on your bridge so that it does not poke out the bottom...
That's exactly the problem. The feet are only long enough for the Full circle thread, but not for the Yamahiko. So I wanted to know if someone uses it threads up.
I have one more bridge without adjusters (don't really need adjusters in Europe), but I'm not sure if I want that bridge cut.

Yes, I have the additional non-pickup adjuster and the cable.
 
I had to shim mine when I installed it. Else it would have bottomed out on to the table.
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Thanks for your hint and picture.

I was thinking of a shim too, but I have metal inserts for the adjusters/Full Circle, so the hole would probably already be to large. So I may need to fill it and redrill. Not sure if I can do that myself and keep the holes in line. Don't have a stand drill at home.
And I need a shim that is much thicker, since the top of my bass has been sunken in os one mm at the E bridge foot. I'm afraid that the thread sits only I the shim then and I won't feel good that way.

How did you fix the shim to the bridge foot? With hot hide glue?
 
best to have a luthier do it but yes hide glue. My luthier (Gaiel) practiced on an old bridge ...he showed me, he just basically screwed the Y into a pre threaded (only slightly smaller hole 1/4in) by hand it wasnt rocket science. when he did it for real on a brand new bridge he did it on a drill press with the bridge lined up. Any luthier should be able to do this...filling it and retapping is not rocket science either....
 
How did you fix the shim to the bridge foot? With hot hide glue?

I used hide glue on mine but I don't think glue choice is a big deal for this particular joint. I was also installing a new saddle so already had the glue in the pot. If the shim doesn't come out right, just cut or sand it off and start over. You can see I didn't put much effort in grain matching or blending the shim in. It's really just there to stop the threads from bottoming out.

As for drilling and cutting threads - this wasn't difficult but I do have a lot of experience as a machinist and as a carpenter and have the right tools for the job. I used a vise, drill press, sharp tools and measured and aligned things carefully before making any sort of cuts.
 
Thanks flatback and Maple.

I originally want to let it be done by a luthier, but he might not have time for me and maybe I can do it myself but still need a drill press.

I just had the idea that I can fix the shim additionally with thin dowels in the corners (using wooden toothpicks or something similar in diameter). That takes away my fear if the threaded part sits in the shim only.

I need to take off my bridge tomorrow and remove the threaded metal insert for the adjusters.

Since the hole that needs to be drilled is the same size on both, legs and feet, before the threads are made, I had the idea of making threads in both, legs and feet, that should still hold the non-threaded part well in place (perhaps after drilling again carefully after the thread was made) and the other threaded side of the pickup gets the other threaded part of the bridge.
So the pickup could be used in either direction, thread up or down.

I know that making the thread only on one side is the cleaner solution, but I got that idea for more flexibility to try what works best.

I also sent that idea to the manufacturer and asked for their opinion.