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Yet another POS Squier Build

#21
Finally got some color on the bass! The metallic does not show up well in the pictures, but is is there in person.

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The can says to wait 7 days for the paint to cure before putting any more coats on it. So I will wait 7 days and then put on the transparent orange and see what I get!
 
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#26
Looks great. I'm getting ready to refin an Affinity P body in Metal Specks Silver. I've used the orange (or "Burnt Copper") on a previous refin, and it looked good. You have to be careful with the spray nozzle, though - it tends to sputter if you aren't careful.
 
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#29
Ok, so I sprayed on the clear orange today. Did not get what I was expecting at all. I was expecting a cherry cola color. Brownish red. The orange I used must have had more yellow in it because this is what I got.

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I am not unhappy with the color, just totally different from what I was going for. I don't think I like the white pick guard with it. Black would probably look better. So I have a decision to make.
A. Leave it as is but use a black pick guard. Down side is I am not sure another guard will line up with the holes I drilled for this one.....
B. There are a few very minor blemishes I was going to let slide. But I could fix them, sand and recoat with blue metallic again. Leave blue with white pick guard.
C. Do option B but coat with clear red. I already tested that and it comes out a very dark purple. I liked it but for some reason wanted to try the orange.

Lesson learned, always, always test on scrap wood. Doh.... I know better, what the $%$# was I thinking?? I do sort of like the green though.
 
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#36
ThaCoast said:
What's the Clear red brand? trying to find some online for a build i want to do.
Click to expand...

I used Tamiya. The guy that did the paint job I was going for used Reranch Orange over the blue metal flake. The Reranch Orange was pricey and I am trying to do this for as little money as possible so I bought two 3 oz cans of Tamiya instead. I used about a can and a half on the guitar. It obviously has more yellow in it based on the color I got. I would hold off going with it until I see how it handles the Minwax Clear Laquer Spray I am going to use. I have zero experience with doing this type of thing. Other than the unexpected color it has worked out well so far. The can says it is lacquer but it also says it is for plastics. I hope the final clear reacts OK with it.

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#37
sandman357 said:
I would hold off going with it until I see how it handles the Minwax Clear Laquer Spray I am going to use. I have zero experience with doing this type of thing. Other than the unexpected color it has worked out well so far. The can says it is lacquer but it also says it is for plastics.
Click to expand...

Which tamiya red did you get and test on a wood piece withthe blue flake to give you a dark purple?
 
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#39
ThaCoast said:
What's the Clear red brand? trying to find some online for a build i want to do.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I just realized you were asking about the clear red I was going to use. It is Testors clear red but it is an enamel. After I bought it I did more research and found you can't put a lacquer over an enamel. So if I was going to try again I was thinking of going with VHT Nite-Shades Red Tail Light paint. It is an Epoxy paint, but on car forums they say they put clear lacquer over it and it works great. So that is what I would try next.

The green is growing on me though, so I am thinking of leaving it as is.

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#40
wmhill said:
have you thought about double P configuration? Sumpthin a little different.
Click to expand...

Double P sounds interesting. This is my first attempt at doing a guitar. I have done auto body work and furniture finishing though. This isn't that much different. My plan was to try my hand at the paint refinish and rewiring the electronics. If that all works out I want to pick up another one for about $50 and try my hand at routing a new cavity for a J pickup. But a bridge P would be different. My ultimate goal is to learn enough from working on a few beater basses to try and make one from scratch.
 
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