I've got nothing to add to your oil debate, but I'm very much looking forward to see the result!
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Your Favorite Finish for Bubinga?
- Thread starter J Posega
- Start date
Oil - tung or linseed. Maybe a little Howard's to keep it conditioned. Love bubinga - it's a magical wood.
@TheEmptyCell I have done a couple of "oil" finishes with Osmo Polyx-Oil hard wax oil and I'm a convert. It literally feels silky to the touch, there's nothing quite like it IMHO. The closest thing to it has been Rubio Monocoat, but that has some hurdles in mixing and application which don't exist with Osmo, plus it's more expensive. A small can was not super cheap, but it has enough to do at least 5 instruments I'd guess. I used gloss on this bass below, but unless you buff it up, it doesn't get a shine to it and stays kind of a semi-gloss sheen.
My one caveat is that the bass above has been fully grain filled with dyed pore filler and then epoxy first before the Osmo. I like the slick feel of fully filled grain, but you could totally do this on unfilled bubinga.
My one caveat is that the bass above has been fully grain filled with dyed pore filler and then epoxy first before the Osmo. I like the slick feel of fully filled grain, but you could totally do this on unfilled bubinga.
Oil based polyurethane will tend to have at least a slight amber tint. Varathane Ultimate formerly from Home Depot but I think it has to be ordered online now is completely water clear over even black paint. VU would have to be thinned to wipe on well but it does work. However, testing a finish product, especially a new one is never a bad idea.
Ric5
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- Jan 29, 2008
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I have a Schecter with satin gold hardware, don't know if that helps you at all.
I have a friend that used to build basses, he's made wooden knobs before.
I have a friend that used to build basses, he's made wooden knobs before.
This epoxy finish looks interesting, and I have no experience with it:
My 4-string Stambaugh has a simple oil finish that really brings out the Bubinga figuring in a natural but subtle way. I'm not an expert on oils and finish techniques but in my opinion the flat finish has an elegance that would be lost with a glossier sheen.
I have a Bubinga Warwick so I'll be watching this closely. I've only used the Warwick beeswax on it so I can't contribute much more than that to the finish conversation.
For hardware, I'd go all black hardware. I had a Bubinga Cirrus with gold hardware that was cool in the late 90's, but my Warwick has black hardware and I think it looks better against the Bubinga.
For hardware, I'd go all black hardware. I had a Bubinga Cirrus with gold hardware that was cool in the late 90's, but my Warwick has black hardware and I think it looks better against the Bubinga.
JeezyMcNuggles
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- Feb 23, 2018
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I would go with a satin Varnish Oil mix. Check out Minwax antique oil finish. Really easy to apply and looks great on anything.
Also I agree that chrome hardware isn't a good match. I'd go gold, black or maybe even those bright colored finishes they have.
Also I agree that chrome hardware isn't a good match. I'd go gold, black or maybe even those bright colored finishes they have.
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Howards feed n wax, absolutely love that stuff for my Warwicks!I like the natural oiled finish like I have on my Bubinga body Thumb 5… just a little Howards from time to time to keep it healthy.
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I used to have a Corvette 6 with Bubinga body but it was just too darn heavy.But Bubinga sure is purdy
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Try Howard Feed n Wax, it's much easier to apply, and you can really lay it on thick. It's much cheaper per oz, and it smells amazing! I used the Warwick bees wax for a long time until switching, and honestly the Howard does a better job in my opinion.
One more vote for the Osmo Polyx oil, amazing stuff. From what I understand, they have mat, satin and gloss nowadays, but I just use the satin.@TheEmptyCell I have done a couple of "oil" finishes with Osmo Polyx-Oil hard wax oil and I'm a convert. It literally feels silky to the touch, there's nothing quite like it IMHO. The closest thing to it has been Rubio Monocoat, but that has some hurdles in mixing and application which don't exist with Osmo, plus it's more expensive. A small can was not super cheap, but it has enough to do at least 5 instruments I'd guess. I used gloss on this bass below, but unless you buff it up, it doesn't get a shine to it and stays kind of a semi-gloss sheen.
My one caveat is that the bass above has been fully grain filled with dyed pore filler and then epoxy first before the Osmo. I like the slick feel of fully filled grain, but you could totally do this on unfilled bubinga.
Here's the raw body:
And here it is with one coat of Howard Feed-N-Wax (FNW). It smells ridiculously good paired with the roasted ash body, and it's absolutely dead simple to apply. I'm going to build up a few coats of this stuff and try to get a slight satin sheen to it.
The roasted maple neck feels so smooth and sleek that I don't think I'm going to put any finish on it.
And here it is with one coat of Howard Feed-N-Wax (FNW). It smells ridiculously good paired with the roasted ash body, and it's absolutely dead simple to apply. I'm going to build up a few coats of this stuff and try to get a slight satin sheen to it.
The roasted maple neck feels so smooth and sleek that I don't think I'm going to put any finish on it.
I suggest you put some sort of oil based finish on it or all the dirt and oils from your hand will darken the wood significantly. It will also absorb a lot of moisture from the air as well and eventually the grain will raise and it will not be butter smooth anymore. Just rub the whole thing with Danish oil or something similar or I think you will be looking at the neck in a few weeks and wondering why it looks like crap.
Before I saw this and while I was putting waiting for the first coat of FNW to dry on the body, I put some on the fingerboard. I'm not worried about the back of the neck looking dirty or worn. The fretboard I'd rather look relatively not-filthy.
How the neck looks is only half of it. An unfinished neck will be at the mercy of every change in the weather, and you'll be ever fiddling with the trussrod to keep it straight. Even a wax only finish is better than nothing.
