If you could have any bass, and money was no object, what would it be? It can be a discontinued model, but I would prefer something made within the last 10 years.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Your Perfect Bass
- Thread starter jnevi9nr
- Start date
Dingwall Z Series 5 string
I could give a rat's ass about the color.As long as the body wood is ash.
I could give a rat's ass about the color.As long as the body wood is ash.
Roscoe LG-3006
Top: Probably Box elder burl, with a wendge veneer
Body: Swamp Ash
Preamp: Audere 4-Band/18V
Pickups: Bartolini
Neck: Standard
String Spacing: Standard
Fingerboard: spalted Purple Heart, Fretted
12th Fret Inlay: Standard
Nut: Hand-Carved Diamond wood
Hardware: Black
Note that my "dream bass" changes near everyday...
Top: Probably Box elder burl, with a wendge veneer
Body: Swamp Ash
Preamp: Audere 4-Band/18V
Pickups: Bartolini
Neck: Standard
String Spacing: Standard
Fingerboard: spalted Purple Heart, Fretted
12th Fret Inlay: Standard
Nut: Hand-Carved Diamond wood
Hardware: Black
Note that my "dream bass" changes near everyday...
Custom (sort of): Fender MIA Standard Jazz V, Sunburst/Maple with Black PG, wired V/B/T, and Fender Samarium Cobalt Noiseless Pickups, strung with D'Addario Chromes. 
I own my dream basses and because I am alive I keep on dreaming (more Dingwalls on their way here)
My Avatar Z1, my Z3, my Villex-loaded Voodoo, my Emerald Green Prima, my fretless "Brazil" and my "Uber Alles" are my dream basses really and I USE them!!!!
My Avatar Z1, my Z3, my Villex-loaded Voodoo, my Emerald Green Prima, my fretless "Brazil" and my "Uber Alles" are my dream basses really and I USE them!!!!
i will have to say that the perfect bass for me is being done at this moment 
its specs are like this:
nut width: 45 mm (1 3/4")
nut material: bone
width at last fret: 80 mm (3 1/8")
fingerboard radius: 10"
scale length: 34.5"
number of frets: 28
string spacing at bridge: 19 mm (3/4")
neck shape: asymmetrical D (thinner in the D and G strings and fatter in the B and E strings)
truss rods: dual
neck wood (neck through): wenge + wenge + wenge (light oil finish) (Spalted Maple head top + truss rod cover)
fingerboard wood: ebony, unlined fretless
body wood: black korina with thin ebony accent lines and spalted maple top (oil finish)
tuners: black Hipshot Ultralites (material: aluminium)
bridge: black Hipshot A bridge (material: brass)
knobs: black (JP standard)
locks: Jim Dunlop strap-lock
pickups: Lindy Fralin Hum Canceling Jazz, 10% overwound
strings: Thomastik-Infelt Flatwounds
i already paid 50%, i still have to wait some weeks for it to be finished.
its specs are like this:
nut width: 45 mm (1 3/4")
nut material: bone
width at last fret: 80 mm (3 1/8")
fingerboard radius: 10"
scale length: 34.5"
number of frets: 28
string spacing at bridge: 19 mm (3/4")
neck shape: asymmetrical D (thinner in the D and G strings and fatter in the B and E strings)
truss rods: dual
neck wood (neck through): wenge + wenge + wenge (light oil finish) (Spalted Maple head top + truss rod cover)
fingerboard wood: ebony, unlined fretless
body wood: black korina with thin ebony accent lines and spalted maple top (oil finish)
tuners: black Hipshot Ultralites (material: aluminium)
bridge: black Hipshot A bridge (material: brass)
knobs: black (JP standard)
locks: Jim Dunlop strap-lock
pickups: Lindy Fralin Hum Canceling Jazz, 10% overwound
strings: Thomastik-Infelt Flatwounds
i already paid 50%, i still have to wait some weeks for it to be finished.
My ideal bass has:
- correct balance (no neck dive), stays in at least 45 deg. position by itself, no need to hold instrument.
- fingerboard in correct position when played on strap - not sticking way out to the left like with so many basses even expensive exotics.
- 6 strings
- unlined ebony fingerboard
- narrow string spacing, no football-field-wide gigantic neck and bridge with strings miles apart.
- 5 piece laminated neck for stability
- neck-through construction for stability and flat, dead acoustics (I like a neutral, hi-fi tone).
- no exotic top, no extra cosmetic features
- no weird coloring or paint job, just plain-jane clear gloss finish
- plain-jane woods - i.e. Alder body sides, maple neck (laminated tho)
- good hardware, especially a good solid bridge.
- both active and passive modes or passive only
- Humbucker in bridge position approx 3" from saddles.
- neck PU optional, but nice to have
Turns out I was able to actually get this bass and for only about $1300 new - a Carvin BB76F configured with all the above options. Pic attached.
LS
- correct balance (no neck dive), stays in at least 45 deg. position by itself, no need to hold instrument.
- fingerboard in correct position when played on strap - not sticking way out to the left like with so many basses even expensive exotics.
- 6 strings
- unlined ebony fingerboard
- narrow string spacing, no football-field-wide gigantic neck and bridge with strings miles apart.
- 5 piece laminated neck for stability
- neck-through construction for stability and flat, dead acoustics (I like a neutral, hi-fi tone).
- no exotic top, no extra cosmetic features
- no weird coloring or paint job, just plain-jane clear gloss finish
- plain-jane woods - i.e. Alder body sides, maple neck (laminated tho)
- good hardware, especially a good solid bridge.
- both active and passive modes or passive only
- Humbucker in bridge position approx 3" from saddles.
- neck PU optional, but nice to have
Turns out I was able to actually get this bass and for only about $1300 new - a Carvin BB76F configured with all the above options. Pic attached.
LS
because of GAS I don't think that I will ever find the "perfect" bass. Right now I am tossing the idea of building a Jazz bass, But how I think Warwick would have done it. Bubinga body, Wenge neck and board, hipshot bridge... yadda yadda yadda! Warwick Jazz!!
O if was gonna splurge and get super perfect bass would probly be either a doubleneck Baseen bones bass with torzol twist necks, or a doubleneck Kidwell. On lower end would be custom monson single neck bass.
Top 3:
1) Fodera Yin Yang 5
2) Sadowsky NYC or LEJ P/MM 5 chambered body, white w/ tort, birdseye maple board, matching headstock
3) 5 string EB-2 shape with Darkstars
1) Fodera Yin Yang 5
2) Sadowsky NYC or LEJ P/MM 5 chambered body, white w/ tort, birdseye maple board, matching headstock
3) 5 string EB-2 shape with Darkstars
