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Rockin John said:

This request might also apply to the DB forum but I’ll just post here…

The thread title says it all, I suppose. I’d like to find the dots for the bass line on the recording above. Various tries have revealed little or nothing.

Can anyone please point me in the right direction?

Tks.

John

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Not to leave well enough alone, here is Ray Brown’s bass line (mostly), transcribed from Summertime, a somewhat similar tune.
Maybe this helps someone.

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iiipopes said:

Any more about the pickup? If the pickup is truly dead, I would send it to Tom Brantley. He used to work with Lindy Fralin before going out on his own. He has rewired or redone covers on several pickups for me, including rewinding a dead Squier Tele pickup that I had custom made as a split-coil humbucker that was DOA. He explained to me how the guy who made it did not put a proper base on the pickup, and it flexed and failed. He truly understands these pickups, having worked with Lindy, including understanding the value of fixing a vintage pickup if possible, rewind only if all else fails.

Fender and Gibson Pickups — Purchase New Guitar Pickups

testing

tombrantleyrewinds.com

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I actually managed to fix it myself! The connection between the coil and the hook up wire had broken and there was just enough left to scrape back the coating and re solder a new hook up wire to. I dropped some molten wax on the repair to try and keep it in place and it seems to have worked so far so all good and it sounds amazing, really snarly and gritty (in a good way)! Did people originally change these pickups out because they didn't work well at volume I wonder because I'm only playing at non stage level and I suspect they may feedback at higher volumes hence the need to swap to a P-bass humbucker pickup for less noise etc? Anyone had experience of this?

Ahhh, the grandfather of Rob Trujillo's crab walk.

Just a thought. I did 20years+ in the Infantry. HHC Mortars so LOTs of equipment, LOTs of loading/unloading; rough handling would be an understatement now add on field time, all weather conditions, bumpy roads/trucks you get the idea.

Something comparable to Bass / Amp: The equipment goes inside a soft case when equipment is in hand cary. If it goes in a truck or even short term storage or bad weather situation; the soft case goes inside a hard case (Usually Pelican). Most are not pretty at all. 50/50 there is a medium/thin layer of closed cell foam on most interior surfaces, then glued in harder closed cell foam blocks to keep the soft case in the middle.

Point is, the Army system works, no question. If you have a decent soft case, just need to find a comparable hard case that fits it. Pelican is the standard, they have dozens of sizes and .gov surplus with only minor cosmetic wear and can be found on eBay at lest 50% off. There is also Hardgig , SKB and Seahorse; all just about as good as Pelican. Don't forget about checking weights. (FWIW: Harbor Freight is just OK IMO. They are heavy and smell. 100% I would spend a fraction more and get surplus Pelican every time)

Jeff Scott said:

They have their own headstock shape and logos; the way I see it all is good to go.

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They look to me copies of EBMM, but that’s just my opinion. The bodies look like Fender bodies.

Last night I had a 90 minute set and my feet and calves cramped through the whole thing. That was manageable by keeping moving. I'm the band front, so I had to do that anyway. Then, last song, my two picking fingers on my right hand seized. Every time I tried to use them the cramp went all the way up my wrist. I finished the tune picking with my ring finger. I've been playing 40 years. I get cramping in my feet a lot but never in my hands. Freaked me out. I haven't been eating much. I wasn't dehydrated, though. I drank a lake of Gatorade. Bumping this thread to see what I can learn.

Ridiculous!

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ProbablyTooLoud said:

I think you gotta post this in classifieds.
There's a "want to buy" option (or similar) or you can put your current neck up "for trade" and specify what you wanna trade for.

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Thanks I’ll try that

Ended up keeping the Storm Trooper bass and doing a passive conversion. Used Bartolini XXM45M pickups, but installed them upside down to get a more open voicing on the A-string. Pretty satisfied with the results, although it took quite a bit of trial and error (and money) to get it right. At their price point, these basses are really well made. And while I'd still categorize it as a "modern" instrument, it now has a much more traditional-sounding voice, similar to a PJ but not quite.

Hey everyone,

I recently came across a Sadowsky SBP-1 preamp/DI that appears to be an early V1 version. The thing that caught my attention is that it does not have the On/Off LED that the later versions seem to have.

Does anyone know:

Whether there are any circuit/build differences compared to the later SBP-1 versions?

If the early USA/V1 versions are considered more desirable?

What a realistic value would be today for a sealed example, and at differing qualities?

Any information or personal experience would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello again.
After my SIRE U5 saga, here is a remaining task to make my Ibby perfect: yet another ... ramp !

Started with the same remaining wood piece i've used for all the others


.

Then big sanding operation

In first get the good width


Then the good thickness


more sanding


And then painting operation.
The first step has been to go see my local paint specialist with the bass as he could analyse color and realise a good mix to be the closer possible of Ibanez Sea foam green. And i had chance cause he reached a really close one !
Not really obvious with the first layer


but then




And finally..






And now, let's go back to music !

I didn’t check the first link before but it’s fixed now

T. Brookins said:

Here is my Japanese-American queen, the deep blue 1988 ESP Barrington TMS-5 delight. 8.3lbs, upgraded with Hipshot Ultralight tuners (no neck dive) and a two band preamp with the treble portion snipped and passive tone installed instead. Treble boost on the original preamp was harsh and redundant, especially with how crisp, direct, and bright this bass is. It’s basically a great sounding 24 fret Jazz Bass with a modern zing of needed. The custom Gotoh pickups are fairly quiet while soloed for being single coils. The striped ebony board and carved alder body impart a very immediate and defined tone unlike anything I’ve heard— and I’ve heard a lot! The neck is almost dead straight, and is capable of extremely low action. The Gotoh 206 bridge is very solid and rattle free, although quite fiddly to setup. I found it on marketplace for a steal, and it appeared to have been sitting outside a case without strings for quite a long time. So much dust and grime. If I could ever find another, I’d very highly recommend it for anyone looking for a Sadowsky Jazz 24 or a rare vintage-yet-modern take on the Ibanez Mode bass. This bass is at a very high level in terms of solidity, definition, build, and mojo. The Japanese way. I can’t say enough good about it! If you are ever fortunate enough see one for sale, get it and keep it healthy!

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Love the Look of those TM Stevens, Never seen one pop up this side of the Pond (UK) but given that it's almost 40 years old it puts some of the "modern" J Shape to shame, thank's for the post very cool...Plz Go join my Barrington Owner club thread

My 4 String Newport is still in a box traveling across the world from JP to the UK......SURFACE SHIPPING...I had to back it down to Surface because ZenMarkets Air quote was WAY WAY off the mark, Before i bought the bass and had it shipped to their warehouse their Shipping Caculator gave be a Ballpark of $71/£50 for 6 Day AIR.....Great...After the bass arived and was package (99% the same Size/weight id estimated for) shipping at Check out jump to £180/$242! Air.....***

Surface was the only option i was will to pay for $85/£63 upto 3 Months.wait...that or lose the Bass, I had a bit of a go with Zenmarket's CS Via messages and the "team" have made some changes to the Estimation Caculator...It's still off by a good $30/£20 based on what i paided vs their estimates are so be warry of what looks like to good to be true shipping costs from these Japanese reshippers because once your order they have you over a barrel.

Cheers

Thanks.
I found a few threads about the original Band, back from 2013, and went through them.

Piranha The B said:

Hello,

I’d like to hear your opinion. Which strings would you recommend for a P-Bass or J-Bass (Fender) so it sounds good in an acoustic band mix?
(Acoustic guitar, vocals, bass guitar and cajón)

I currently have 45-105 DR Hi-Beams on both basses and I’m happy with them, but I’m thinking about switching to (try) Thomastik JF344 43-100 or Labella 760FS 45-105

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I've used Thomastik JF344 flats exclusively on my basses (Fender, Rick 4003 and 4005 basses) for my acoustic/electric band for more than a decade - they're low tension, sound wonderful played with fingers or a pick, and will likely be the last set of strings you'll ever buy for whichever bass you choose to play. Our instrumentation includes acoustic guitars, cajon, keyboards, flute, additional percussion and 5 vocalists.

You can currently buy these on Amazon for about $90. It will likely be the best investment in strings you'll ever make.

Never seen one in the wild. My (…and shared) biggest bone-of-contention is the design introduced what would normally be components of the afterlength into the vibrating string path. I don’t recall this query ever being fully answered but, then again, the product is flying beneath the radar if still available…kinda like “My Pillow”.

Riis

Mystic Michael said:

As a bassist, you should understand - perhaps better than any other musician - the value of space. For one example: When the bassist chooses to sit out the entirety of the first two verses - then finally comes in at the chorus - with authority, gravitas and force - his presence is immediately felt, as a direct effect of his absence, far more than if he had simply played through the first two verses as well.

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Speaking of a track that illustrates this principle perfectly, I suggest for your consideration the following:

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MM

I have the Saint Soap, the long scale with the humbucker, an early production version with a mini-HB. I got it January of 2024, from a shop in the UK and had it shipped. Same bass, but with a long scale. Overall it was well built with decent parts. Think of it in the same range of higher end Squiers or Harley Bentons, to Sire midrange basses.

I had two issues. First was the mini humbucker cover wasn't properly soldered to the pickup base plate. I soldered it in properly and all is fine. Ashdown replaced the mini with the "tron styled pickup. The other issue was the A string would pop out of the groove if I played it hard. The string groove on the nut was correct height, as was the depth of the groove. The brake angle was a little shallo, so I installed a Hipshot 3 string retainer (tree). This fixed the brake angle issue and it plays well.

I did one modification, with a HipShot Bass Extender (Drop Tuner). Aside from what I've noted, everything else is tock.

It is one of my main players/go to basses. It's sort of a moder P style bass, with a little more modern sound. The roasted maple neck is a beautiful, amber-brown shade and is extremely stable.

The Onyx Green Metallic is a nice shade. At that time they also had the Shell Pink (not my style/taste) and the Ice Blue Metallic (an alright color). The Mint Green and Black weren't available at the time I got mine. The black looks good, but that Mint Green looks like nuclear pea soup! (YUK!)

I'm 69 with strong distance vision, but increasing dim within 6 feet. I recently had luminlay sidedots installed on my main gig bass - we play a few places with fancy lights that can go completely dark or suddenly stab me with a bright beam...and as a mediocre bassist trying to use the whole fingerboard, I really need to see those side dots. Since that installation I've done 5-6 gigs in those clubs, and the luminlays REALLY help.

Freezer can totally work to slow aging, but you have to use the right material for the wrap. Cling wrap and food storage bags of today are mostly thin PE and are NOT a terpene barrier, so the rosin can dry out right through those materials. You need either nylon freezer/vacuum bags or, mylar food storage bags (even better).

This is also why back in the day you could wrap your Pops in plastic wrap to keep it fresh longer. Saran wrap used to be made with PVDC which was an excellent vapor, oxygen, aroma, and terpene barrier. But it was changed to polyethylene in 2004 which is over 100,000 times more permiable to oxygen and volatile rosin terpenes. PE will also directly absorb the volatile rosin terpenes from the outside surface so it actively dries out your rosin.

For Pops, the best option is to take the rosins out of their containers (still in wax paper) and vacuum seal, or get as much air out as you can, in a nylon or mylar food storage bag.

You also don't need to worry about the freezer de-humidifying your rosin. Cigar humidors work to keep the water content of the tobacco leaves in the cigar stable so that the cigar doesn't dry out. There is no water content in gum rosin or derived resins so humidity does nothing to keep volatile components of the rosin in place.

You might think the water vapor in a humidity pack takes up the air space so the rosin volatiles can't dry out, but it doesn't really work that way because of Dalton’s law of partial pressures. Water vapor and the terpene vapors each have their own partial pressure and more of one doesn't impact the other. What matters is air tightness and quality of barrier. So things like a Rosin Saver are only really working because of tightness of seal and thickness of the plastic container walls.

JKos said:

@Sean Baumann ,
I have working Android apps for firmware versions 2.0 and 3.7 that allow you to:

1) Control all parameters* easily,
2) Save and recall presets,
3) Automatically saves all user loaded IRs and reloads as necessary if a preset needs it or selected by user.

PM me your email address and I'll send you a link. There are currently six users and it is working properly for all of them. I did just notice a noncritical bug that I need to fix.

* The NBP-5 does not allow control of IR on/off for DI or Out via MIDI.

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Hello JKos,
I just found this amazing thread about custom Android Controller App for the NUX NBP-5 pedal.English is not my native language, but I would really love to try your application on my phone. Could you please send me the download link or the APK file?

My email address is: [email protected]

Thank you so much for your time and for sharing your work with the community!

Best regards,
Ismet Zein

badgrandad said:

I only played arco on one song out of the 4-5 we did so once in practice once at the 9:30 service then the no-go at the 11:00 service, so I didn’t think to rosin up between services.
I did think to try to cut the volume and rub across the strings enough to warm the bow up but I just elected to quiver the bow and pizz my way out of trouble.

Next time I’ll warm up my bow before the song.

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You're upper 60s temp problem a classic issue for Pops and similar rosins that depend on slow-drying solvent components for their grab. So when your bow sits around for more than an hour at that temperature, it needs another swipe or a "warm up" scrub, which on the microscopic level is just mixing the dried out top layer back in and heating the rosin enough to resume grab. At minimum, try wiping the strings to get any powder off during the downtime so it doesn't block the grab further.

Rather than push my own solutions, you might consider Barrie Kolstein's new Wiedoeft Ultra-Grip (seems to me like a Kolstein-soft variation with a more processed base resin for the lighter color) as a base layer you put on earlier in the day when you know conditions might get like this. Then you can put the Pops on top for the familiar feeling. That should prevent the loss of grab when the bow is just sitting.

Maybe someone with more experience with Kolstein-soft of the new Wiedoeft can chime in on this.

This site is becoming a fantastic source for Rick info, aka, rabbit hole map
Maybe you can find some useful info inside;


Replaced tuners can be a whole other universe.
Personally, I would try to return it to stock, if possible.
If not, I would use the next simplest, time proven mod.
If the hole hasn't been enlarged, you'll probably have more options.
Schaller currently offers a few different Rickenbacker specific tuner models,
but there are also many other replacement options available.

Value is in the mind of the beholder…
If you want a AV 63 precision but prefer a jazz neck, There is no better way to buy one then have it be a factory mistake!!
IMHO… that factory mistake is more valuable than someone who just put a jazz neck on the body.
Personally, I would buy it if it’s in good condition and the date on the neck coincides with the date on the Body…
Also is the jazz neck from one of the American vintage Jazz basses that they were making during that series which was
2013-2017?

nyctigerintx said:

I just bought an AMP BH-420 this past weekend for $250, including the very nice gator road case it was racked in, and I am in love with this amp already. I normally play an Eden 550 head on the road, and this AMP seems to match up very well so far in rehearsal. If anything, it seems punchier and clearer than the Eden. I also REALLY like the Bass/Treble tone balance knob that comes after the EQ section. I haven't found anything to complain about yet. BTW, at rehearsal room I'm playing a 70s Jazz bass and driving an Eden D115XLT and an old Eden D210T. My brief experience with this amp is very positive. My wife even commented on the killer tone which quite surprised me.

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That is funny when the wife compliments bass tone. Mine did the same which is so out of character with "the whole house is shaking" as she starts randomly turning off any with a light on it.