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Fender Is Dead In The Water - CEO makes their Cease and Desist worse

In other corporate harrassment news, Buc-ee's is suing a local convenience store here in Ohioland for trademark infringement. The store in is the city of Beavercreek, where the beaver theme is pretty common including the high school mascot and many businesses. It has been in operation since way before Buc-ee's was somebody's pipe dream and is fourteen miles from the behemoth travel stop.

I understand that mega corporations need to defend their trademark, but this is just stomping on a little guy who is in no way competition. It isn't sitting well among the locals.

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NBD: 1976 Fender Precision

Thanks! As a recent convert to mostly 70s instruments I have to agree. This one does sound surprisingly sweet. That’s the perfect word to describe it.

I was a little taken aback at how pale the fretboard on this one is but have grown to like it! Guessing it sat in its case when not in use, and it’s been doing the same here.
Might perhaps muster up the courage to keep it on a stand.

Definitely tempted to pick up another P from this era, so I guess I’m a lil nuts too lol.
The maple neck and fretboard of my '75 also are pale. It's the headstock and natural body that have bronzed. My earlier post was misleading.
I think your bass is very classic-looking and cool! 😎 I like it that there are things about old basses that set them apart from each other and from modern instruments. Enjoy that bad boy!
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Double Bass String indentification : John Patitucci at Emmet's "Modern Jazz Masters"

I think he bailed on the Temperas fairly quickly

I believe he was involved in the Perpetual Stark development, and for a while was using Stark G+D with Evah A+E, so I bet these are stark

The green ring that denotes Stark is so small though, no way to ever see it on a video

Fender Aerodyne (MIJ) Jazz Neck Profile (vs "standard" Js)

Can any one tell me if the neck on the Aerodyne Jazz is a standard profile across all non-signature Jazz models? Having a hard time verifying anything. I'm not a real bass player and the reason I'm asking is, after spending the weekend with the Yamaha BB734A and then going back to my Aerodyne, there is no comparison for my preference in the way the neck feels. I found a killer deal on another MIJ Fender Jazz but it's not the Aerodyne. If I know the neck is the same I might pull the trigger. I actually might prefer a non-Aerodyne, as the A's hard line on the arm contour annoys the crap out of me when playing in the sitting position for a long time.

This is what I'm looking at. If I get a Jazz it has to be a PJ...

sandpaper shim in neck pocket?

Sandpaper or other light abrasive would keep the wood and shim from moving in relationship to each other.
That's bordering wives' tale / myth territory, and typical TB folklore, unless one is using sandpaper with grit on both sides. . Otherwise the plain paper side slides around, business as usual, haha.

Alas, the same mechanism to "hold" single-sided sandpaper in place is the very one that secures the neck in place: bolts or screws.
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How do STAINLESS flats compare to nickel rounds (tone)

Disclaimer: not a bass player!

A bass-playing friend of mine said he always hated flats because they were so dull compared to nickel rounds, until he tried some EB Group 3 stainless. He swears they hold a similar amount of top-end zing, but are a bit smoother overall.

As primarily a guitarist, I did love the feel of the flats on his bass...those huge ridges take some getting used to when crossing to the dark side. But is he right...do they really deliver the same amount of punch and zing as rounds? (rock tones, primarily). Many thanks!!
How long has he had them on? They take a long time to break in and then sound pretty similar to most other flats

Who else love and uses the Joyo Orange Juice and/or Oxford Sound or Tech 21 Oxford?

I was wondering if anyone compared the Tech 21 Oxoford, with cab sim disengaged, with the One Control Fluorescent Orange, which is supposed to be an emulation of an Orange amp as well, without any cab sim.

I was thinking that since I use my Oxford withe cab sim disengaged, and almost falt EQ, the One Control might be a cheaper backup alternative.

I can't find any videos or sound clips on people demoing the One Control on bass.
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iSolo A.I. Separation App for iOS

Anyone using this ?

I've downloaded it for the free 3 day trial which expires today I think but have only had time to try a few tunes and am trying to determine if I want to keep or cancel it before I get charged.

So far tried separating bass on Deep Purple " Perfect Strangers " and that seemed ok, but Led Zeps " what is and what should never be " seems glitchy

Reviving elixir strings

More irritating to me is the way the coating frays where they contact frets and where you pluck/pick, though fingerstyle is much less destructive than a pick.

it doesn't happen anymore, at least since 2012 when they changed the formula of the coating, and in recent years they also upgraded it making it less slippery.
I have use them on acoustic and electric guitars since 2001, and since 2012 the stopped flaking, it just deteriorate a bit, but no more snow on the pickups :D

Has anybody here tried to extend the life of elixirs or are they so durable that they never go dead.
Elixirs are not cheap and I have a bunch of basses. I would like to know what my options are in that regard.

if you don't play them 8h straight every day, they are the perfect string, because the coating maintains them fresh and without dirt (they don't have space in the gaps of the winding, they are coated over the entire string.

the wonderful thing is that you don't have to worry about strings not sounding anymore if the bass is kept in the case for a long time.

the only downside is that the coating is not conductive, so with passive basses you won't lose the buzz from the ground when you touch the strings.

What makes elixirs age?

physical stiffing of the steel core, nothing else. the core of the strings is made of spring steel (acciaio armonico), which is the same kind of steel used for swords, which is elastic and can bend up to a certain breaking point.
the strings, contrary to a sword, are always in tension, the steel is stretched almost to it's breaking point (lower strings are farther from the breaking point, higher strings are nearer), so after some time, depending also on the use/abuse (plucking, bending, vibrating...), the steel start to become "stiff" and it loses flexibility.

one unknown method to revive strings is just detuning them for a while, to let the steel "rest" and regain his physical flexibility. however doing it too many times makes the steel lose strength, it's not an infinite method.

so, coated strings like Elixir only go dead when the steel become stiff and loses it's flexibility. they just start sounding with less harmonics, due to the stiffness. you can revive them a bit detuning for some hours.

also flatwound strings die in the same way, the only reason we can keep them for years is because we expect a dead and dull sound from flats, and they are stiffer (the flat wire makes them less flexible, without gaps, like every kind of wire in the world), so once they lose the initial brightness, they keep the same sound forever.

How long do Elixirs really last

Elixir last A LOT, until the coating don't start to deteriorate in the plucking area (if you play with a pick mostly), but still go.

the thing is that, compared to other coated strings, the coating is on the entire string, as you probably saw on the website and package. this preserves the gaps from dirt, so they can sound identical for a long time.

after a while they start to lose the steel's physical flexibility, that's the only kind of "death" they meet.

on my Manson JPJ there's the same set since three years, still working great. it's been 25 years since I started using them on my acoustics and electric guitars, and on the acoustics they are the only string I use.
usually I change them after an years or so, because they start to feel "stiff", but the overall sound is still great. they also have anti-rust treatment on the plain strings, so they don't suffer oxidation, and stay shiny forever.
a set on my "battle" acoustic was on since almost 10 years :D plains still shiny, wound/coated lost the coating in the plucking area, but the remaining area of the strings were still perfectly coated.
now that guitar is in my music school, used and abused, and still sounding with that set.

Nickel strings with less nickel?

But that was a long time ago. Is it still an issue?

sorry for the late response:

in 2012 they changed the "formula" of the coating, and now it doesn't "flake" anymore. in the last couple of years they upgraded again, and it's also less "slippery", they feel a bit more natural.
I have a set on my Manson JPJ since at least three years, abused with a pick in punk gigs, and still not flaking.

Thus, I reckon -- the irritation in the past must have had nothing to do with nickel per se.

GHS Boomers IMHO are some of the "more nickelish" out there, so probably the issue was not nickel irritation.
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Wanna upgrade OpAmp on old active bass. OPA2134 any good?

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For some reason, in the 10pin socket, only the pins 4 and 8 receives the pickups input. I strongly believe that this pcb board was also used for other projects at that time. My bass is a 5 strings Vantage from 1994. Someone burned the copper trace when trying to change two potentiometers (As you can see in the pictures). Because of that I will probably build a new pcb with the same circuit.
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