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funkinbottom · Aug 8, 2026

Yeah, not a bad plan. No sense investing more than necessary. If you can't get it playing/functioning to your liking, no pre, or electronics can fix that problem.

UnDoNe · Aug 8, 2026

Heck yeah, man! Great job on this!

I'm so pleased I was able to at least offer some information to help this great build! That body and neck are superb. Great personal mods too.

Enjoy the heck out of it! =W=

dadglasser · Aug 8, 2026

dadglasser said:
View attachment 7552679

View attachment 7552680

No yard work around here other than watering. Our air quality is very bad:

My lovely and talented does all of the yard work.

96tbird · Aug 8, 2026

Due to the style of the button, ima guess JinHo (Korean), with that button as the optional.

I have a set of JinHo open gear that have the exact same buttons.

jinhomusic.com/bass/jb_150.html

Buttons: jinhomusic.com/accessory/accessory_03.html

These are what I have. jinhomusic.com/bass/jb_450.html

tubedude · Aug 8, 2026

BishopHastur said:
I've got a bunch of basses, but I mostly stick with playing this one 5 fretted string: View attachment 7552879

The legendary Mothman lives!

FilterFunk · Aug 8, 2026

I have to cheat a little here and go with 1977-78.

Among many others - and I'm just sticking with R&B/funk - and in no particular order:

"Funkentelechy vs. the Placebo Syndrome" - Parliament
"All 'n All" - Earth, Wind & Fire
"Go For Your Guns" and "Showdown" - The Isley Brothers
"Bootsy? Player of the Year" - Bootsy's Rubber Band
"Get to the Feeling" - Pleasure

For a multi-year window, 1975-1979 would cover it.

Bruce Calin · Aug 8, 2026

These are all good suggestions. I went to more flexible strings and a much lighter touch on purpose about four years ago and this has really helped. That last hour on a four-hour gig does seem to be when most problems occur. In that case, I try to play even more relaxed and as lightly as I can. The impulse for me is to dig in more, but if I really let up and relax, it helps to get me through. Let the amp, if used, do the work. Even if playing ampless, you project a decent amount if you don't force it. It takes an adjustment in thinking, but it does work IMO.

Mustang Surly · Aug 8, 2026

2saddleslab said:
Hubert Sumlin's funeral expenses were paid by Mick & Keef.

The Stones were longtime Wolf fans. In 1965, they refused to appear on the TV show "Shindig" unless Wolf was also brought on. 18-year-old Billy Preston and Tele-master James Burton were members of the lineup who backed him on the show:

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The Stones instrumental "2120 South Michigan Avenue" was named after the 1964 location of the Chess Records Studio, where their album "12X5" (which featured the track) was partly recorded.

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They covered Wolf on a track for their 1965 album, "Rolling Stones, Now!"

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1961:

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jholling · Aug 8, 2026

I did try it from about an inch from the bridge, slowly moving it towards the bridge. For my sound, I like it right up against the bridge saddles. When it was an inch away, I heard more attack than tone. There is a sweet spot just a little away from the bridge that could be a good fit for the upright sound (playing on top if the fingerboard and mixing your eq just right). I like it when I sound close to an upright in articulation, but a more pure, amplified tone.

I did try the reverse install that Obra suggested. Definitely a different sound profile. It suppresses the G string a little more. I will be trying it the next time I gig with it.

Dr. Cheese · Aug 8, 2026

sawzalot said:
I just did a thing.

I have a Dingwall Combustion that I love. I customized it a little while ago by putting in the Fret Nation 6-way switch that gave me the solo middle pickup. That was good, but then I heard the Dingwall Nashville Combustion "all pickup combinations" video and I wanted to try it out. So I figured out how to rewire my Combustion as a Nashville Combustion. I pulled out the 6-way switch, installed a blend, put in a push/pull volume pot for active/passive switching, and installed a DPDT on/on/on mini switch for the special sauce Nashville middle-pickup switching. A key difference that I picked up in the Dingwall Facebook group is that the middle pickup on a Nashville is wired in series with itself, where on a regular Combustion it's in parallel with itself. So I made sure to make that change.

I love the solo middle pickup in series, and I like the blend knob, but I wasn't super happy with the mix of middle pickup and blend, it just sort of seemed thin and not super differentiated.

So.

I had wired the blend and middle pickup on/on/on switch so those two outputs were in parallel. I thought, "what if I could wire those in series?" It took me forever to figure out how to wire up the DPDT on/on/on switch to make that happen, but I did. So now, the middle switch position has blend in series with the middle pickup.

Holy moly, it sounds AMAZING. When the blend is set to the bridge or neck position, it sounds terrific with the middle pickup. Ballsy, nasty, super powerful. But when the blend is in the middle, it is just a MASSIVE sound. Unbelievable. I love this thing. All I have to do is be careful I don't blow the windows out.

Please post a video or an audio file.

Mario Lewis · Aug 8, 2026

Stylee Mousse said:
Convenience culture is pervasive to a crazy point.

- VERY TRUE!!

agedhorse · Aug 8, 2026

el murdoque said:
Here's what I'd do in your case:

Build the signal chain on a less cramped space to rule out the power supplies creating noise for being in close proximity to the audio signal carrying devices - especially the LED stuff.
Take off the pedals from the board. Start with the DI and the last pedal in chain before that. Check for noise, and if there is none, add one pedal and check again. Space them out a bit, as far as your cables allow. If the whole signal chain minus the LEDs operates without noise, then the culprit has to be either LEDs or the proximity to the power supplies.

A good start, I would also want to rule out the power supply as they can cause issues if the internal boost/buck converters are noise or there is a defect present.

DWBass · Aug 8, 2026

bought a broken Peavey Headliner 210 what to do

Why?

echo008 · Aug 8, 2026

Bergerama said:
I ended up putting on a set of La Bella low tension flats medium scale. They fit perfectly and I love them. The factory rounds sounded great but I just love the smoothness of flats.

Hey Good to know for future. I was going to buy a set before I went with the Dunlop long scales. Which work very well just a slight overwrap on the "G". I love the LTFs Ive had them on other basses, one of my favs.

AlBass · Aug 8, 2026

Thank you so much for the info!

AlBass · Aug 8, 2026

I recently purchased one of these 2 years old. It's a good feeling guitar, though a little on the heavy side, with very comfortable neck. On plugging it in however, I immediately discovered the pots were scratchy and noisy - to the extent that an active tone control would cause scratchy nose even when the bass was in passive mode. More problematic than this though, is that the pickups are so hummy, that him is even produced by touching the plastic sides, and touching pieces causes MASSIVE hum. I expect a little bit not too this extent.
Opening the bass I discovered clear signs that the pickups had been changed, but I do not know how to tell whether they have been changed back to original, or whether they are inferior pickups contributing to the problem. The J pickup has the "Noiseless" logo on the cover, but that is just the cover. Is there a way of identifying whether that really is the original Fender noiseless pickup?

JBarz · Aug 8, 2026

In a similar vein, I still hold that an Acme B1 on the floor coupled with a BF One10T on a stand is near sonic perfection. Decoupling the one10 like that gets it totally out of the inefficient B1’s massive low-end turf while the 10CR fills the space with those warm tube-like mids. I know Alex used to play/study Acme cabs, so it wouldn’t surprise me if they’re “accidentally/not-accidentally” designed to play so nicely together.

Joshua · Aug 8, 2026

Outstanding!

Fondsdale · Aug 8, 2026

When looking at the history of bass bridges, you basically had Fender bent steel and nothing else commercially... until the Badass came along.

While a Badass (or similar hi mass) may do nothing for tone, the reason lots of pros had them in the 70s-80s was the fender bent steel bridge has a tendency for the saddles to move laterally and the screws to back out. So, to fix this problem, you bought a Badass (or, DIY I guess).

So, no, they don't really 'do nothing' when you look at the context of a studio or touring pro needing a bridge that was reliable over many sessions and string changes. Sure, there are less bulbous models that fix those issues now, but not at the time (70s-80s).

jimok · Aug 8, 2026

Pickup replacement is an option. The Bridge Pickup doesn't really add anything for me. It's so close to the Bridge that it sounds too honky to my ears by itself and blending both pickups just right takes a little finesse. Thanks for the reply!

pepj · Aug 8, 2026

I think its more important how you run the bass rather than which model.
Its true the 750 eq has less range..if that's fair to describe it that way... but the point of those Aguilars are the reproduction of the bass rather than drastically colouring it.
If you need that EQ, look elsewhere. Imo.

catalin gramada · Aug 8, 2026

The13thFret said:
Thank you for the advice.
I'm pretty sure I understand the theory, and after getting a USB inspection camera in there, nothing appears to have come unglued, the bridge seems solidly affixed. I think its a combination of some of the things mentioned above, (top isn't stiff enough, braces are not stiff enough & too heavy a gauge of string). The truss rod was maxed out and there was an obvious belly behind the bridge, it was low at the front (rotating forward under string tension)
While it sounds quite pleasant, it's not an expensive or rare instrument, and I can't get a bridge doctor locally (will have to get one shipped from the US). Also the bass is not mine, I'm just trying to help out as a favour.

Since the bridge doctor will need a 9/64" hole anyway, I got approval, drilled, and made something up out of what I had laying around, it seems to be a marked improvement. I'll order a bridge doctor, and maybe creep another 1/8th of a turn in 24 hours and see what happens.

View attachment 3361194

Hello. I know is old, but despite the structural corection how the mod it sound please ?...it gains/loose sustain ? , is louder/quiet ? It loose or gain bass, mids ? Any appreciations about how it modified the tone in respect with original please ? Thank You.

2saddleslab · Aug 8, 2026

Jeff Scott said:
View attachment 7552559

Bass Viking · Aug 8, 2026

Bright Midnight said:
HI all, can anyone tell me if the necks on the CST's are a bit thinner than on the Euro Classics for example? I play a lot of chord stuff and when testing out the Euro Classic a couple of times, the neck felt chunkier than the neck on my old SK Squier Precision. The neck on my Precision sits somewhere between a regular US Precision and a Jazz neck, and it's too thin for my long fingers and hands, yet the Euro Classic felt a bit too much. It could be just that I need to adjust to a different neck and that after a while my hands will adapt, but 'if' the CST has a faster neck, I'm all for the CST.

Ask on the Spector thread, they can probably help you. I can tell you that the neck on my CST feels slimmer than my RST neck.

macburner · Aug 8, 2026

sorry it's been so long I don't remember!

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bought a broken Peavey Headliner 210 what to do​

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bought a broken Peavey Headliner 210 what to do