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finished making a 100w valve amp

i've just finished making a 100w valve amp for bass/guitar. i have 2 200w tube monsters so i wanted something a bit smaller to be able to push into overdrive when i feel like it. the amp can run on 4 6l6's or 4 el34's. im running it on 2 6550's atm, but i'd be hesitant to run 4 as they draw alot of heater current and dont want to blow the power transformer which i dont have specs for.

the transformers are second hand transformers i bought from a guy i met through ebay. the power transformer is apparently from an old tv (40's or 50's he said, but it works perfectly, and havent felt the slightest heat on it yet). the preamp tubes are 6bl8's, which have a pentode and triode inside. they were designed for tuning of tv's and radio's, but they sound great in this amp. their frequency response probably isnt flat, but thats the last thing that matters with instrument amps.

the amp is quite simple, it has an input into a pentodegain stage, to the volume, to the 1st triode as a cathode follower, to the tone stack (like a marshall tone stack, but with a mid shift knob to change the mid band from 250hz to 1khz). then to the second pentode as a gain stage/input from the negative feedback and then to the split cathode phase inverter being the triode on the second tube. the output can run on a fair few tubes. the voltage is about 390V, so its probably going to put out 80-90w with el34's or 6l6's.

theres also a switch to disengage the tone stack, as well as a switch the change the negative feedback strength.

thus far im not sure wether i'd prefer 6l6's or el34's, but the amp will take both. i may adjust the grid no. 2 resistor to 820ohms if i use el34's.

here are some pics. i havent made a shell for the amp yet, but im thinking of using some type of timber for the front and back, and possibly the whole shell. i can inlay symbols for the controls and some type of logo.


the front, i will cut the pot shafts to more manageable lengths once i have a shell for the amp made.
100wfrontcomp.jpg


the back.
100wrearcomp.jpg


the gear i was testing the amp with. the guitar cab is an old australian 4x12 with some old alnico speakers. very good sounding with subdued highs. it is very inefficient (my 2x10 is louder, and the drivers in that are only 96db @1w/1m) which is good when you want to crank a tube amp. the 1x15 i made myself. its loaded with a warehouseguitarspeaker 15". the cab sounds great with quite a wide frequency range. it goes nice and low and still has plenty of high's on its own. the guitar and bass i made myself.
100wtestequip.jpg


heres the inside. there are some wires that cross the chassis which make it look pretty messy. they are just the high voltage, the feedback and the connections to the transformers, so there isn't any long signal wires adding hum. the preamp was wired between tagstrips and the sockets, making the length of leads a minimum. i like it better than a tagboard, but it does take longer to do. i put the tubes connection to ground via a spade connection making bias adjustments easy as you dont have to desolder anything.
100wcompleteinside.jpg


im really happy with the amp so far. i designed the preamp myself almost completely as i was using very uncommon tubes for MI amps. the amp has virtually no hum. because of this i thought that it wasnt working when i fired it up. i touched the input expecting nothing but got a buzz showing me that it worked. after debuggine a few bits and pieces i'm very happy with it.

i wont be able to give any samples atm, but may be able to at some stage when i get some things recorded by a friend.

if anyone has any advice on which output tubes i should get please chime in. im leaning towards jj el34's atm.
 
it sounds good. very transparent until it starts to break up (which is loud even at ~50w with only 2 6550's). can get quite a few different sounds from it which is nice just by changing pickups and equalisation. i'll have a better description once i play it in band, but the drummers overseas for a couple weeks, so that wont be for a bit.
 
I'd have a look at the wiring in some Reeves or Hiwatts as a ref. for how neat wiring can be done.

http://www.reevesamps.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=50

i think they use solid core wire or a just larger strands, because the wire i've been using is much too flexible to be able to bend it like that. i've always had that image in my head when i first saw a hiwatt, deffinately very clean looking. i will get some cableties soon, but i need to cabletie things to something.

have you thought about running 6ca7's there what i'm leaning towards in my amp build atm! looks good though, how does it sound?

was thinking of that as well. im leaning towards the jj e34l's, which apparently have a bit more headroom than the el34's, which is probably good for bass.
 
Hi.

Great amp You have made for yourself, congrats.

I especially like the recycling of the old iron, those transformers are usually perfect for MI amps. I've seen (and trashed when I was a kid :() too many old radios and TV's without salvagin the trannies and tubes. I'm kicking myself for doing that.

Somehow that chassis reminds me of the Trainwreck amp on the GT tube amp book, the one with the natural solid wood cabinet. The faceplate looks like a wooden one too.

I have all the components for a smaller amp, if only I had the time....;)

Regards
Sam
 
I'd have a look at the wiring in some Reeves or Hiwatts as a ref. for how neat wiring can be done.

http://www.reevesamps.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=50

Why? He used true point to point and not a terminal board like Hiwatt et al. The mans' building method though not neat iS electronically sound and will have less stray capacitance than using terminal boards. The amp will be a pain to service but if BlackLabb has used conservatively rated components that should not be too much of a problem.

Output tube screen resistors, I have found, work well with 1KΩ 5W. I use this value for any of the tubes I use.

Paul
 
Yes it would work but you would have to bias the tubes separately. Problem is in the differing drive requirements. One pair would do most of the work lead ing to shortened life. I would never do this although one of my designs uses both 6L6GC and EL34 but I switch in each pair as a tonal choice.

Paul
 
Another thing if I may. You are using radial filter caps just standing there hanging by their leads. That will not last too long before the leads break. You have to stabilize them mechanically. I have used silicone calk to affix such caps to the chassis and then the leads can be wired to the tag strips, upside down to the way you have them. I've never had a problem of them coming loose.

Paul