• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Bass Palatino Megathread part II

B

bassbob

Oct 16, 2004
176
3
Midwest
#1
EDIT: In order to keep the software from bogging down, Paul requires that all threads which contain more than 1000 posts be split up to keep them more server-friendly. This thread has been split from the previous longer version. To view the first thousand posts on this topic, go here. - CF



Getting a pro set up may be tougher than you think owing to the reputation of Palatino basses. A lot of Luthiers won't touch them due to the quality control issues etc. If you found a luthier who would do the work the cost may be a large fraction of what you have into the VE already.

What you might want to try is DIY or get a friend with some woodworking skills. Take a straight edge 36 to 48" long and check the scoop/warp/relief on the fingerboard between the nut and the end of the board. Mark the fingerboard around the octave with chalk and hold the bass sideways so you can see where the string movement up and down is the greatest. You can then use chalk to mark the location of the scoop/warp etc and see if there is a warp at the end of the fingerboard. Post a picture so we can check on the location and amount of warp/scoop etc. ( be prepared to get a lot of sandpaper and steel wool if you go this way. )

If there is a warp, you have a couple of choices, a: take a plane or a chisel and slowly and carefully take down the end of the fingerboard to reduce the warp. b: order a new fingerboard from Gollihur and get rid of the warped one. Good luck.

I should have noted that I used the Rev solo along with a homemade piezo strip under the bridge foot on the VE500 all the time. I ended up selling my VE500 when I bought an Eminence. ( the deal was too good to turn down. )
 
#2
bassbob said:
Getting a pro set up may be tougher than you think owing to the reputation of Palatino basses. A lot of Luthiers won't touch them due to the quality control issues etc. If you found a luthier who would do the work the cost may be a large fraction of what you have into the VE already.
Click to expand...

I was afraid of that. I haven't stopped into the local shop here in the Seattle area, so I'm not sure how open-minded they are towards EUBs or if they've got their noses in the air. Think I'll do that this afternoon.
 
#3
Just want to vent here that they're customer service is...non-existent? I wrote to them asking for a part, and didn't really expect much (based on the reply to my last post) but a simple "Sorry, we don't do that" is not really that hard. I never heard back from them, and just wrote a second note asking to just hear SOMETHING.


No reason to tell anybody this, I'm trying to tempt fate. Any time I bitch about something like this, I'll get what I was looking for on the next day and then feel like an ass. Come on, fate, make an ass of me :o
 
#4
Not to hog this thread or anything, but just a couple things to reiterate that everyone's already heard a thousand times already:

-Sounds best with the volume (on the Pal) rolled way down, the tone knob all the way to the bass side. It really doesn't sound too bad that way.

-Found the SA-22 stand works pretty well for it too, and I can see how it could be easily modded with another stand or something to make it work as an option while playing as well.

-So far, I believe it's working quite well with my Markbass F1, though my only cab at the moment is a Berg AE410 (which I need to remedy) I use for elec. I'm definetly not getting a thin or nasally sound that I've heard some describe when talking of impedance mismatching. Actually, it's overly bassy/muddy with the Pal's pre volume up anywhere past halfway, but sounds good once adjusted.

I've only had her home a few days now, but I think she's gonna be a good bass to get my feet wet. The action is a bit high for my taste, but it's definetly not unplayable; in fact, except for the little extra relief in the neck (that causes a bit of that E string buzz when stopped), the action measurements taken at the end of the fingerboard are almost exactly what Rufus Reid recommends/uses in the Evolving Bassist. It's not what I'm used to (having played upright in college) but it makes it hard to complain about... :rolleyes:

One more question for you guys out there with experience. I'm on a limited budget (~$200-250) at the moment and was wondering which mods would have the biggest and most immediate effect on the amplified sound: new pup and pre, eminence bridge, steel cable stuff to replace the tailpiece, strings?

Thanks again!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SteveBassJr
#5
Scott,
IMO change out the bridge with the Eminence $90.
Put some better strings on it $100-$140.

Total: $190-$230.

I have read that the Di'addarios work pretty good, I use Correlis but you might find to much finger noise if you are just getting use to the upright feel.

The luthier shop up here is way overpriced and I've been getting all my upright stuff from Bob at GollihurMusic.com.
I have had nothing but fast, courteous, and prompt customer service with these guys. They will also respond to your emails quickly to answer whatever questions you have.

Good Luck and best wishes from the 49th state.
Shawn
 
#6
For sure, get the Eminence bridge and use a belt sander to flatten the feet so it fits in the bridge holder. You may have to chip out the sides of the bridge holder to get the Eminence bridge to fit in there.

Next check Ebay or another site for some slightly used strings like Euro's or Daddario Hybrid lights.

Get rid of the stock electronics and take a rev solo or bassmax into a good preamp like the LR baggs or a K and K. You should be able to find all this on ebay or another bass site.
 
  • Like
Reactions: blakelock
#7
Has anybody tried these yet on there Paly?
I was thinking about changing my BassMax out on my Paly the pickup is a bit heavy on the E side and light on the G side.

They are selling this "The Six Rounds Double Barrel Pickup" on ebay new for $75 it's a double wing style. The reviews on Ebay sound good. I was just hoping someone here maybe is using one or has used it on there DB.
 
#8
Hi all again, another quick update on my Pal. EUB. STILL got the stock pre in it :-( haven't had the confidence to rip out the wiring etc...as I've a regul;r Sunday gig where I use it. I did put extra inner-tube rubber under the pup & on top of it & a bit extra under the "G" side bridge feet- UNTIL I bought a homemade plexi-glass bridge from TB Pal. user "Yvarg". He made me a lovely see thru bridge that works a treat. STILL got the rubber under & over pup but not on bridge ass.
I also took off the POS tail piece.....bought a nylon cello one- fitted OK but broke after a cuppla weeks!!! Then After seeing the standard Dbl bass ones in my local store I decided to MAKE one outta the thickest BRUSHCUTTER cord I could get. This worked WELL for 18 months(did take a few weeks to 'stretch' into stable tuning-but after that -was fine) & gave the Pal a much more organic sound-less of a 'metallic' sound from the reg/stock wire one. After the brushcutter one broke, I got some steel cable(same as some Dbl bass ones are) & some special clamps for it- from a hardware store. I put this one on it a month ago now & after a week of "stretching in" it's great.
So the PAL's still goin strong... we've been performing reg. Sunday's 6-9pm at a Bar/cafe/restaurant doing our blend of blues/soul/jazz etc for 3 yrs now & the Pal's been doing it for nearly ALL of them.
NOW just gotta get the courage up to take out the pre amp- OH I bought a Fishman Platinum Pro- which I use WITH the stock pre- the comp. in it helps the Pal have a nice old sch. thump!
Cheers,
Rod
 
#9
bassbob said:
For sure, get the Eminence bridge and use a belt sander to flatten the feet so it fits in the bridge holder.
Click to expand...

If I don't have access to a belt sander, is this still pretty doable for a novice with a block and sandpaper you think? Lucky for me, Bob Gollihur says that he ships the bridges with pretty good installation instructions. That, along with what you told me above, should help, at least boost my confidence anyway. :rolleyes:

I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the bridge and strings then. And since I'm at it, I might as well opt for the stranded steel tailpiece that Bob sells for the extra few bucks and just scrap this metal tailpiece (unless you guys have any objections or bad experiences with this). Guess I'll be hitting up the bike shop now, too, of course since I'm keeping the stock electronics and all.
 
#10
rodl2005 said:
NOW just gotta get the courage up to take out the pre amp- OH I bought a Fishman Platinum Pro- which I use WITH the stock pre- the comp. in it helps the Pal have a nice old sch. thump!
Cheers,
Rod
Click to expand...

Forgive me if i'm wrong, I'm still a greenie, but you don't have to rip out the stock pre if you get a pup like the Bassmax or Rev Solo II (100-130 bucks). You could just run the signal from the pup to your shiny new Fishman and probably get an even better sound without messing with any of that wire rats nest in the bass! Just an idea. That's probably what I'm going to end up doing at some point anyway.
 
#13
So I got the bridge installation instructions from Gollihur, and the task looks a little daunting for me. My main concern is really just how much I'm going to have to take off. I'm not a very good woodworker.

You guys who have fitted the Eminence bridge, how much did you have to take off the top? Or is it pretty much the right height give or take a mm or two? How about the thickness? I don't see a problem with flattening the feet or putting in the string indents, but shaving a lot of material off the top or having to really shape the curve on the front/fingerboard side I'm not really comfortable with. Any thoughts/experience? Or is it really quite simple and easy and I'm making too big of a deal about it?

Ugh. Not sure yet if I'm up for this. :hmm:
 
#15
Francois Blais said:
Can't you simply bring the instrument to a qualified luthier for installation?
Click to expand...

Yes! But re: Bob's post above, it may be difficult to find a luthier who will work on the Pal. More importantly, I have a very limited budget ($200ish) that I'd like not to spend soley on the bridge if I can help it. Also looking for strings, and eventually a pup and pre as well. And then a Berg 112 cab. It adds up fast! lol.

Edit: I contacted my local luthier (Hammond Ashley) and they quoted me about 250ish just for the bridge installation, maybe more if they decided it might need some nut work or board planing.
 
#16
Scott,
I shaped my bridge using a sand paper, some clamps, a sanding block, a hacksaw and some small files.
You'll also need your old bridge as a template.

I'm at work and going to a practice after work, when I get some time I'll post how I shaped mine it wasn't all that hard just a little tedious.

I have some disagreements with some of Bassbobs suggestions.
I wouldn't take a "chisel" to your bass at all for anything as well as "chipping" things away from your bass.
There are kinder ways of getting things done on your bass.
No offense to Bassbob.
 
#17
Scott McArron said:
Yes! But re: Bob's post above, it may be difficult to find a luthier who will work on the Pal. More importantly, I have a very limited budget ($200ish) that I'd like not to spend soley on the bridge if I can help it. Also looking for strings, and eventually a pup and pre as well. And then a Berg 112 cab. It adds up fast! lol.

Edit: I contacted my local luthier (Hammond Ashley) and they quoted me about 250ish just for the bridge installation, maybe more if they decided it might need some nut work or board planing.
Click to expand...

With all due respect, there's nothing like a setup done by a qualified pro.
It's your choice, but I'd bring the instrument there.

The nut/fingerboard/bridge setup is the most important and critical area on a bass, IMHO.

Regards,
François
 
#18
The insructions that Bob G sends along with his bridges are for regular basses with a curved top. The Palatino bass top is flat so as was mentioned before you can use the stock bridge as a guide for shaping the feet of the Eminence bridge. Remember the feet stay flat.

As far as the top of the bridge goes you can use the old bridge as a rough guide, or try the pencil/dowel trick.

It may sound over the top when I say you can use a chisel on a fingerboard but there is no hammer involved :). It's how you handle the blade that counts. Again, remembering the Palatino rep with many luthiers: it is best to do as much of the work as possiblle by yourself. At some point, you lose the " benefit" of the low price due to the cost of bridges, strings, pickups, preamp and luthier type expenses

I do have a fair amount of wood working experience and I started with a Palatino that came in several pieces with the stock electronics in bad shape so I didn't have a lot to lose when I started modifying the bass.
 
#19
Sidenote: put the bike inner tubing under the pup and bridge. I first started with 1 layer under the pup, 1 on top and one extra on the treble side as I recall someone mentioning here before, but it made the output from the treble side quite weak. So I went back and just left it with two strips, one below the pup and one on top beneath the bridge. Sounds better, smoother. I like it.

Now, my action, measured at the end of the board, is just over 10.5mm on the E and 8mm on the G with the bridge with the bridge set at lowest position, much higher than the 7mm and 4mm I grew accustomed to in college. My left newbie hand is definetly getting a work out.

I agree with you, Francois. I'm no good with tools, so I'm going to do a little more research on luthiers in the area and try to get a better estimate. I don't need nothing fancy or uber-pro (that's a different story with my Electric! Only Mike Lull works on my Lull bass).

At the same time, I'm going to at least attempt modding the new bridge (when I get it here soon) by using the Pal's as a template. Because like Bob said above, I'm going to start losing the benefit of the cost savings of a modded cheap bass over a better bass (like the Eminence I really want) if I put too much money into this thing. As long as it's decently playable, sounds pretty good, lasts me the year, and pays for itself in gigs I'll be fine with it.
 
#20
Does anybody know if the Padded Gig Bag for Eminence will work for the Palatino? I believe they are pretty much same size, correct? I can't keep on using my original gig bag, it's totally worthless and will cause trouble soon if i do not replace it...
Thanks,
Sebastian
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back