Greenboy Designs Official Club - Part 3: Loud, Light and Low!

[CL400Peavey]

When I first posted here, I was wondering if anyone had any real world, anecdotal feedback to offer.

And that is what you got. Loading that driver in to that cab is a mistake. You risk damaging the driver, and will have poor performance on top of it.

It is not the validation you were looking for, but it is the reality of your situation. Why are you so financially motivated to throw good money after bad at this?

 

[jbybj]

And that is what you got. Loading that driver in to that cab is a mistake. You risk damaging the driver, and will have poor performance on top of it.

It is not the validation you were looking for, but it is the reality of your situation. Why are you so financially motivated to throw good money after bad at this?

Sorry.


Technically speaking, I didn't throw good money after bad, I only threw money once.


Please accept my apologies.

I'll report back in a couple of years and let you know how it's going.

 

[Passinwind]

When I first posted here, I was wondering if anyone had any real world, anecdotal feedback to offer. While I find all the suggestions valid and well intentioned, they require that I rise to a level of financial and motivational commitment that I am not currently willing to make. Thanks.

I will promise you this, out of respect for the fEARful brand and reputation, I will only refer to my ugly stepchild as a "single 12" custom cabinet".

Just re-tune the danged cab to around 55 Hz and it'll work fine.

 

[jbybj]

Just re-tune the danged cab to around 55 Hz and it'll work fine.

TB to the rescue again! Thanks, I'll look into that.

 

[Stu_Bass]

How do you guys secure your amps to the top of the fearless cabs when in tiltback mode?

 

[Passinwind]

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TB to the rescue again! Thanks, I'll look into that.

Here's a Max SPL comparison, green is 3012LF and red is 3012HO w/ same box tuning:

Now re-tune your cab to 55Hz:

And although you won't get the same response below 50Hz (by a lot), IMHO you will have a much more usable standalone cab than a fEARful 12Sub, since the high end will be far superior with the HO driver. So I think you may have inadvertently lucked out, actually.

 

[BurningSkies]

Here's my real world experience. I've been gigging an early fEARful 15/6 (and 15sub) now for just over 8 years. I've used it for 99% of my playing (band rehearsal, plus frequent gigs). A couple gigs ago I noticed some funky distortion in the 6" and after rehearsal the other night I took it home, resigned to opening it up and checking over the crossover for failed solder joints or components and the speaker for damage.

After pulling the grill off and the speaker out, what I found was that even after being abused in real travel and gigging situations with high wattage amps and no real concern for treating it carefully. There was absolutely nothing physically, electronically or mechanically wrong. The components and box looked just like the day I did the final assembly.

After putting it back together, I decided to do what I should have BEFORE going to the effort. Another amp at the same volume. No distortion or problems. A quick review showed that I'd re-jiggered my gain structure recently and also changed my bass setup with SS strings instead of nickel. Higher output somewhere along the way...which is good because I have two regional traveling gigs this weekend, and a busy spring heating up.

Even Dave tried to convince me back in 2008 that I was unwise to adopt a IPR3000 for my setup.

 

[wisconsindead]

Here's my real world experience. I've been gigging an early fEARful 15/6 (and 15sub) now for just over 8 years. I've used it for 99% of my playing (band rehearsal, plus frequent gigs). A couple gigs ago I noticed some funky distortion in the 6" and after rehearsal the other night I took it home, resigned to opening it up and checking over the crossover for failed solder joints or components and the speaker for damage.

After pulling the grill off and the speaker out, what I found was that even after being abused in real travel and gigging situations with high wattage amps and no real concern for treating it carefully. There was absolutely nothing physically, electronically or mechanically wrong. The components and box looked just like the day I did the final assembly.

After putting it back together, I decided to do what I should have BEFORE going to the effort. Another amp at the same volume. No distortion or problems. A quick review showed that I'd re-jiggered my gain structure recently and also changed my bass setup with SS strings instead of nickel. Higher output somewhere along the way...which is good because I have two regional traveling gigs this weekend, and a busy spring heating up.

Even Dave tried to convince me back in 2008 that I was unwise to adopt a IPR3000 for my setup.

I also run a high power amp (Crown XLS 1500, bridged into 12/6) into my fearful. I've always worried I'll finally blow the thing but so far so good (almost two years).

 

[BurningSkies]

I also run a high power amp (Crown XLS 1500, bridged into 12/6) into my fearful. I've always worried I'll finally blow the thing but so far so good (almost two years).

Well, given I'm pushing 2 fF cabs with a bridged 2000w+ per gig....

I should have known to look at my amp/gain setup because early on when I first started playing the 15/6 I had a situation where I thought I'd lost the mid and it turned out to source to the head rather than the speaker. Although it was a good exercise to go in and check and tighten down everything.

 

[MTN.bass72]

Sorry.


Technically speaking, I didn't throw good money after bad, I only threw money once.




Please accept my apologies.

I'll report back in a couple of years and let you know how it's going.

Here's a thought...
Sell the 12" sub speaker, sell the Epi, amd the other 15 you previously mentioned...
Order a 12/6 flat pack, then crank out more sound than you ever could with the Epi...
If I want to be gentle, I bridge 650 watts into mine, and if I want serious bone damage I bridge around 1200 into it with my Crest Prolite 2.0

 

[TrevorOfDoom]

I'm currently troubleshooting my crossover for a 12/6… is there any way any of the components could go bad?
All my solder joints are good, everything's secure to the board…
are the caps directional?

 

[Foz]

prolly not and nope... reflow the solders just to be sure - sometimes a cold joint is not obvious - also check the connections at speaker jack - try new cables - check for loose screws / grills.

 

[TrevorOfDoom]

that's what i figured.
I've been putting the multimeter to every connection. It'd be useful if i knew how to read this thing.
I just disconnected the high pass side and did the 9v battery test on the low pass side. The cone moved so I think that means that my low pass side is connected correctly.
Gonna check all my solder joints on the high pass, see what that buys me.

 

[TrevorOfDoom]

should the 12uf cap be giving me an impedance reading?
My multimeter is set to measure Ohms, and all my connections measure at 0, except those that pass through the 12uf cap...

 

[TrevorOfDoom]

so how does a capacitor go bad?
I've reflowed all my solder connections. All good.
My coil doesn't show any impedance. Just one joint on the cap. I've measured 15 times, always the same. One of the legs of the cap is giving me an impedance reading.
One of the legs. How does that happen?
:/

 

[boamedt]

There are a lot of connections, make sure they are all correct to where things are coming in and going out to the right places

 

[s0707]

so how does a capacitor go bad?
I've reflowed all my solder connections. All good.
My coil doesn't show any impedance. Just one joint on the cap. I've measured 15 times, always the same. One of the legs of the cap is giving me an impedance reading.
One of the legs. How does that happen?
:/

Can you show a picture and show how you're measuring that one leg? It may have to do with where the cap is connected to (through a resistor through an alternate path, etc), but it's probably too many things one could imagine unless you show a picture of your crossover and how you're measuring the impedance.

 

[jbybj]

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Here's a Max SPL comparison, green is 3012LF and red is 3012HO w/ same box tuning:

Now re-tune your cab to 55Hz:

And although you won't get the same response below 50Hz (by a lot), IMHO you will have a much more usable standalone cab than a fEARful 12Sub, since the high end will be far superior with the HO driver. So I think you may have inadvertently lucked out, actually.

Retuned the cab today, added all the final hardware and foam. It's all done except for the Duratex. It seems to do exactly what I hoped for, makes my rig louder and lower when paired with my UL112. Maximized my existing gear with relatively little hassle and low cost. The Reznor 112.

 

[John D Harris]

Retuned the cab today, added all the final hardware and foam. It's all done except for the Duratex. It seems to do exactly what I hoped for, makes my rig louder and lower when paired with my UL112. Maximized my existing gear with relatively little hassle and low cost. The Reznor 112.
View attachment 1024377

Congrats!

 

[Snowglo]

Retuned the cab today, added all the final hardware and foam. It's all done except for the Duratex. It seems to do exactly what I hoped for, makes my rig louder and lower when paired with my UL112. Maximized my existing gear with relatively little hassle and low cost. The Reznor 112.
View attachment 1024377

Reznor is a cool choice. Installed/retrofitted quite a few Reznor units back in my HVAC days.