Recent content by davemonkey

Do you happen to know the Genus and species? If it's Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, Gilmer Wood Co sells it for musical instruments. I don't know anything about it, but I bet Marc (at Gilmer Wood) could tell you what kind of sound it has.

The aforementioned thread: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=499418

This is 4 coats of Tru-Oil. Obviously it was not applied per manufacturer's recommendations (that would have taken 4 days) but you can get a really good idea what that oil will do to the wood. The cedar is quite a bit darker, but there is not much difference on the maple and mahogany. On the...

I just found the Tru-Oil I had left over and oiled a strip down some of the cedar plank I'm usind for my bass build (the scrap section). I also put some down a strip of the scrap neckwood (maple and mahogany). I'll post pics when it dries (maybe get a good couple coats on it first) so you...

The Tru-Oil is a very dark amber (straight out of the bottle) and if Tung-Oil is lighter and equal in quality, I'd use the Tung-Oil. I have no experience with the Tung-Oil. Here's a sample pic of the gun I re-finished. It's a 1930's 410 that my Grandmother and Dad found in a road-ditch when...

How does Tung oil compare with something like "Tru-Oil"? I've used "Tru-Oil" to refinish a rifle and was very pleased with it, but it did darken the wood. I'd like to use Tung Oil for my bass, but I'm curious how it will finish out. -Dave

You might need to adjust the truss-rod. I used to get a buzz about the same spot on a Peavey. A couple turns on the truss rod and all was well. +1 on checking the bridge adjustments as well.

I like the body shape. Are you going to cut elbow and tummy contours?

Also, if you are planning on cutting round logs and storing them that way, it really is better to go ahead and quarter saw them and cut out the middle heart of the wood. Everyone I have talked to about logs says the middle ALWAYS crack up...and that has been my experience as well, even waxed.

A freshly cut tree will be full of water, depending on the species. Regardless, it will be wet, as woods go. The best thing would be to have it kiln-dried. If you don't know anyone with a kiln and don't feel like trying to make one, you should wax the ends of the boards that you cut right...

Mikey, that's a crappy joke... HAHA! :D No idea. I "should" have 5 inches left over from the fret board. Since the grain pattern is super beautiful (IMHO) I'm hoping to be able to use that. If that fails, I have all the cedar I could ever need to make endless veneers. (The rest of that...

That surprises me about Gibson, but that just shows my inexperience. Greenman, I see what you're talking about, but that is still a great looking bass!

HA! No, it's not a toilet, it's a chalice. I'm working on an inlay for that. As a matter of coincidence, however, I HAVE seen a bass made from a toilet...some outdoor music show in Tennessee if I remember correctly. :smug: @ majestic; thanks for the heads-up on pre-treating the cedar so...

I finally put a pencil to the wood and I am pleased so far. As this is a first, I'm using my current bass as a template, making just a few modifications here and there to suit it more towards me (like the headstock, neck width and thickness, and body shape...I like it a little "fatter" )...

Thanks, Jason. Okay, that gives me lots of confidence then, since this will just be 4 strings. Man, there sure is ALOT of info to nail down for necks!! I think I'm where I need to be now to get started...so, maybe in a couple weeks (or sooner) I'll have some updates for my build-thread...