Recent content by Micky-D

That is my backup/smaller amp combination. A Sansamp RBI and a Crown Com-Tec410. The Com-Tec is big and heavy and not the most powerful device out there, but they sound fantastic with a high damping factor. Also, they have the attenuators on the rear of the amp, which I quite like to neaten...

Hot diggity damn, PM SENT

I am sorry to dig up an old post, but I feel I must comment. As a FOH engineer, I disagree with that statement. Your monitors tech is there for you. Your LX crew is mostly there for you. The FOH Engineer is there to take the signal from the act and send that signal to the crowd as best as...

Me and my mates donged-up a quick whipper-snipper in typical bogan fashion with some barbed wire, a frisbee and an outboard. Too bloody broke to buy one, so a cobbled up one it was. A bit agricultural but nothing that didn't work. And I tell you what, it worked. Once we got some piss into us...

If that system design works for you, excellent. I simply find that it is my philosophy to not bridge output stages for the aformentioned reasons, and with the added reason that if a power stage does fail in an amplifier, if I am running a large amplifier in stereo config I can simply migrate...

No, you can't. Subs are subs. Sub woofer, infrasonic loudspeakers, sub-bass reproducing dynamic moving coil drivers, whatever you want to call them. They are not midrange drivers. I think I know what you are trying to do. You are trying to get that BIG system sound in a smaller format? I...

We seem to see this quite a bit, and the fault often lies in the fact that the front attenuation control is NOT A VOLUME KNOB. As it has been said before in the thread, just because you have backed off the attenuator does not mean the amplifier cannot reach full power. The gain knob does not...

I use the effected 1/4 TS output to drive my Crown Com-Tech410. At unity, I can easily drive my amplifier to clip. I'm afraid I cannot remember C-T410 input sensitivity right now, but if I recall correctly it isn't very high, fairly cold inputs. Cheers, Mick

If my experience with Clair Bro's is any indicator, if you break it I will be impressed. If you are buying an RBI, another thing to look for is a high damping factor. In essence, the damping factor is the amplifier's ability to halt the loudspeaker cone's residual travel after a signal. Stops...

More common than most think. Cheers, Mick

Whilst opposing power draw polarity is a proven design for maximising power supply effeciency (think Powersoft K10-K20 and DIGAM), it is NOT reccommended that a power amplifier be placed in Bridge or Parallell mode unless you have an in depth knowledge of how that particular device will perform...

Well, by all means, blow your output stage and prove everyone right. I can assure you, you won't do it again. Learning in progress. Cheers, Mick

Apart from a bit of fixed bus architecture, the MIDAS Venice 240 or 320 is a standout choice. They are built well, low failure rate and actually sound like a MIDAS. The aformentioned Soundcrafts are a great choice too. Cheers, Mick

Holy hell, I have the same bass...exactly. And she's a beauty too, love the old 'Nez to death. Cheers, Mick

I think the book is fantastic, it really helped with my dexterity. I also found it helped with my fret precision. Cheap as chips too. Cheers, Mick