Recent content by OneNote

That is what I figured. After all, the MN taper linear pot that is recommended in the wiring schema is basically just two separate pots where either one is always full on while the other can be attenuated, if I understand it correctly…

As I understand it, the NMTB requires 250K pots, but 25K MN taper is recommended when installing the NTMB in combination with the AGDB buffer…

Wow! I am sure I searched Mouser earlier but didn't find it... apparently I suck at searching. This is great, thanks you so much for the help!! BTW: any idea what the "M" and "N" stand for?

So, just to be sure, it's always this: And never something like this: ? I need to know, because I plan to use a Bartolini buffer preamp AGDB/918-2 and EQ preamp NTMB+ F together in this configuration, which would require a 25K Ohm MN tapered potmeter. I am having a hard time finding one...

See title. Is the varying track of each of the consisting pots linear or audio? I spent quite some time searching the internet, to no avail (except for AI stating that it was neither...). All I find is diagrams/pics that indicate linear tapers, but I don't see why it can't be audio.

Update: bought this one. I saw good reviews on YT (and later also not so good reviews...) Anyway, we'll see, I haven't used it yet... Thanks for the advice all!

Yes, I found that one too. I thought that it may be a little less foolproof; it looks easier to accidentally file the top of the fret if you're not very cautious, or am I wrong? The one I found (the Boston one) has a V shaped groove, which makes it less likely to file the top of the fret...?

Hello, I plan to try to do fret levelling on my own bass(es). I searched for fret crowning files and found this: https://guitarpartscenter.eu/en_US/p/BOSTON-VFCF-01-V-type-fret-crowning-file/23000 Has anyone used it? Would it be useable for jumbo frets? Thanks in advance

Is it true that Sire basses have Ernie Ball strings now, instead of D'Adario? I just bought a V5 with Ernie Balls. I thought all Sire basses from the factory were always equipped with D'Adario EXL-165...?

From what I can see on the pictures, you can unscrew and lift the top plate quite easily. Could you do that and take a picture of the inside and post it please? I am very curious. TIA

I have a few questions on effects loops (Markbass an Warwick LWA 1000); I hope someone can answer them. First: I have a Markbass CMD121 and I am very happy with it. Sadly enough, if I want to double on electric bass and upright bass, using a seperate preamp for the upright bass, it is not...

Hello, I just bought an SLB200 and I think the frame does not fit well to the body, there's a lot of space left. Please see picture 1. It looks like the two ridges of the body plate do not fall into the openings of the frame plate, please see picture 2. It takes some effort to force the frame...

My reason: I never played a 5 string bass that had a good B string. Always weak and floppy. Admitted: I haven't played that much 5 stringers and I never searched very hard... If anyone knows of an affordable and normal looking bass that has a good strong and tight low B and is also playable...

Well, yes and no... I have played professionaly (allround, pop, rock, jazz, fusion) for 10 years after I graduated from conservatory, untill I quit some 25 years ago. I have always been a "living room player" since then, untill recently, when I decided I wanted to play with other people again...

Yes, I suppose you are right. The thing is, I am struggling enormously with my sound and I am desperately searching for a clue. Now that I got rid of the unwanted effects of the magnets and did some more adjustments and setup and put on new strings, I guess the sound, in itself, is more or less...