For me its not a string slippage or neck flex issue. I like the quickness and ease of string changing and streaching as well as a shorter A-B contact that has more response.
Musiclogic- I read in a few forums that saliva is a good way to clean gum out of rosewood. I did that and is seemed to work fine. What would you say about thinning the linseed oil just a bit with alcohol for a 1 coat conditioning? Please let me know if this sounds rediculious or damaging to...
Would boiled linseed oil be OK to condition a fingerboard? I know that there are specific oils for fingerboards, but I am trying to use what I have.
Thanks
Cough Drop mic silencers are cheap and can be mounted on the same home-made board. Use 2 Cough Drop''s, one for each amp on a ghetto piece of plywood. I have never used that for bass, but a guitarist who's band shares my jam-room swears by it.
Great question. I have been on a long seach for the best string retainer for metal. I found a Swedish company that makes string retainers specifically tailored for metal/grindcore/speedcore, but its $125. I have been saving for 2 months now and cant stop daydreaming about how brutal my sound...
Thanks for the advice. Now I'm thinking no oil for neck or board. Just dont want my skin oil to gunk up the open grain in the wenge. Sweaty hands. I have never built a bass w/ a completly raw neck and board so I just wanted to make sure this was an acceptable plan. I'll stop overthinking it.
Ordered a raw wenge neck w/ ebony board from Warmoth. I want to finish the neck with a light oil so that it still feels very raw. Dont want any seep lines through the masking to the ebony. I have done several Warmoth builds but never done any finishing. Any advice?