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Über-Jay V Spalted Maple
- Thread starter miziomix
- Start date
Last time I mentioned that I was getting into inlay territory for this build.
The drawing, again inspired to Viking mythology, revolves around the G string anchor and frames both the ferrule and the string itself.
The owner wasn't keen on MOP so the only alternative - metal aside - was wood. I tested Ebony and it wasn't very nice. Too heavy, too visible. We wanted something a lot more discrete. Eventually we found that Ash had all the qualities we were looking for. And it is easy to work with.
This is a test for the colour contrast.
Since the anchor hole had already been drilled, I had to insert a dowel to close it, otherwise it would be almost impossible to drill a precise circle.
Then I had to shape the Spalted Maple and the Swamp Ash ring. To get a perfectly rounded shape I did the following.
First, I drilled the center of the SA ring. Then I glued it to a coin - just two CA drops - and sanded the edge with a drum sand at low speed.
Then I did the same with the Spalted Maple.
In this case, the coin I had found happened to be in the exact diameter needed, thus the two parts were almost a prefect match.
The SA outer ring instead, was about 1mm wider than the forstner bit and it had to be slowly sanded to size by hand.
But the result is very rewarding.
I have prepared the four arms and should be able to inlay them tomorrow together with the MOP logo, which in the meantime, has found its way here
The drawing, again inspired to Viking mythology, revolves around the G string anchor and frames both the ferrule and the string itself.
The owner wasn't keen on MOP so the only alternative - metal aside - was wood. I tested Ebony and it wasn't very nice. Too heavy, too visible. We wanted something a lot more discrete. Eventually we found that Ash had all the qualities we were looking for. And it is easy to work with.
This is a test for the colour contrast.
Since the anchor hole had already been drilled, I had to insert a dowel to close it, otherwise it would be almost impossible to drill a precise circle.
Then I had to shape the Spalted Maple and the Swamp Ash ring. To get a perfectly rounded shape I did the following.
First, I drilled the center of the SA ring. Then I glued it to a coin - just two CA drops - and sanded the edge with a drum sand at low speed.
Then I did the same with the Spalted Maple.
In this case, the coin I had found happened to be in the exact diameter needed, thus the two parts were almost a prefect match.
The SA outer ring instead, was about 1mm wider than the forstner bit and it had to be slowly sanded to size by hand.
But the result is very rewarding.
I have prepared the four arms and should be able to inlay them tomorrow together with the MOP logo, which in the meantime, has found its way here
Update time.
The inlay is done and it looks pretty good to me. It gets more or less visible depending on the angle at which the light hits the grain of the Swamp Ash. I really dig that
Next step is lacquering. So I have inspected neck and body for dents, scratches and all those little gems that shine oh-so brightly under a few lacquer coatings.
The neck is sanded with micro mesh up to 12,000. Which is a complete waste of time when lacquering. 400 would be enough and 800 a luxury really. But you see, I have this condition and simply must sand it until it shines. It's a compulsory disorder.
I like using scrapers for the body. In fact, I like scrapers a lot. I had filled the pores with CA and at this stage I scrape off the excess. A scraper leaves the surface smooth as silk.
Then it's time to clean the wood and the tight angles, corners etc.
From now on I try not to touch the wood with my bare hands. It's hot over here and the moisture from my fingers will make the grain raise in no time. So from this stage on, gloves become mandatory.
Neck and body are wrapped in cotton towels to protect them from accidental damages.
We'll hit the spray booth in one week. Until then....
The inlay is done and it looks pretty good to me. It gets more or less visible depending on the angle at which the light hits the grain of the Swamp Ash. I really dig that
Next step is lacquering. So I have inspected neck and body for dents, scratches and all those little gems that shine oh-so brightly under a few lacquer coatings.
The neck is sanded with micro mesh up to 12,000. Which is a complete waste of time when lacquering. 400 would be enough and 800 a luxury really. But you see, I have this condition and simply must sand it until it shines. It's a compulsory disorder.
I like using scrapers for the body. In fact, I like scrapers a lot. I had filled the pores with CA and at this stage I scrape off the excess. A scraper leaves the surface smooth as silk.
Then it's time to clean the wood and the tight angles, corners etc.
From now on I try not to touch the wood with my bare hands. It's hot over here and the moisture from my fingers will make the grain raise in no time. So from this stage on, gloves become mandatory.
Neck and body are wrapped in cotton towels to protect them from accidental damages.
We'll hit the spray booth in one week. Until then....
Hey Maurizio, re: the gloves. I've found those leather type gloves can marr a finish due to the dyes and oils in the leather. I too have the humidity problem being here on the wet coast of canada and I've found the best thing to have on my hands are surgical gloves. Not the "medical inspection" gloves, but the sterile surgical gloves. I'm allergic to latex, so I buy nitrile gloves, but they have to be sterile, so that they are unpowdered and come with a very fine texture on them to improve grip. Plus if you ever get near something moving, they will just tear away rather than draw your whole arm into the machinery. Just a thought...
Hey Beej, thanks for the tip. It hasn't happened to me so far. But there's no reason why I should wait for it
Truth is, I sometimes get tired of the surgical gloves. I use them to spread CA. But they seem to be often a better choice. Yes, I wouldn't use those gloves with machinery. Too many scary stories eh?......... Thank you.
This is the new logo.
It's M for Maurizio. Duhhh.....
Does it also looks like a low frequency sound wave? No? Ok, it's M for Maurizio
I started inlaying it on this bass and it's almost done.
The first batch I ordered is all white MOP. But that's just because white goes well with this and the next few builds. Depending on the wood combo it might come in other types of MOP, Abalone or other materials. I suspect white will take the lion's share though. White, the new black LOL
It's M for Maurizio. Duhhh.....
Does it also looks like a low frequency sound wave? No? Ok, it's M for Maurizio
I started inlaying it on this bass and it's almost done.
The first batch I ordered is all white MOP. But that's just because white goes well with this and the next few builds. Depending on the wood combo it might come in other types of MOP, Abalone or other materials. I suspect white will take the lion's share though. White, the new black LOL
Thank you!
that logo looks great!! i love it!!
are you sure it's not a W ?
a w. A W? A W?? where's my gun, eh? LOL
thank you jm
Thank you bassingeorge
OK. it has been some time since the last update.
I am still waiting to start spraying. The weather has been quite tricky over here with huge humidity levels swings. But mainly I am waiting for a few other builds to be ready for lacquering so we can spray everything at the same time.
To fill the pores of the Swamp ash I am planning to shoot it with one or two wash coats and then spread one or two coats of clear epoxy over it. Sand in between, then go ahead with the usual lacquer coats.
I have sealed the Spalt Maple pores, dents and imperfections with CA and sanded it down almost to the wood, leaving the surface even. I don't plan to do the epoxy coats on it, though. Unless it's a good idea.
Does the above sound about right? Can it be improved upon? Any advice/tip would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
OK. it has been some time since the last update.
I am still waiting to start spraying. The weather has been quite tricky over here with huge humidity levels swings. But mainly I am waiting for a few other builds to be ready for lacquering so we can spray everything at the same time.
To fill the pores of the Swamp ash I am planning to shoot it with one or two wash coats and then spread one or two coats of clear epoxy over it. Sand in between, then go ahead with the usual lacquer coats.
I have sealed the Spalt Maple pores, dents and imperfections with CA and sanded it down almost to the wood, leaving the surface even. I don't plan to do the epoxy coats on it, though. Unless it's a good idea.
Does the above sound about right? Can it be improved upon? Any advice/tip would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
These videos on epoxy pore filling are as good as they get. Todd Stock is a very experienced luthier of acoustic guitars but the method applies to any sort of instrument. By the way, the epoxy used is Z-Poxy Finishing Resin. You'll get in a mess if you try to use epoxy adhesive. Excuse me if you already knew all this.
Epoxy Pore Filling Part 1: Application of First Coat & Sealing a Rosette - YouTube
Epoxy Pore Filling Part 2: Prep & Application of Second Coat - YouTube
Epoxy Pore Filling Part 3: Prep & Application of Third Coat and Prep for Finishing - YouTube
Epoxy Pore Filling Part 1: Application of First Coat & Sealing a Rosette - YouTube
Epoxy Pore Filling Part 2: Prep & Application of Second Coat - YouTube
Epoxy Pore Filling Part 3: Prep & Application of Third Coat and Prep for Finishing - YouTube
Thank you Dave. Yes, I knew those videos and it's always great to watch them again.
How would it be a mess with epoxy adhesive? This is the first time I am considering to use epoxy and any advice really helps. thank you
This should be the one, right?
Is it advisable to shoot one or two clear coats first. Or should I start with z poxy?
If I don't use any grain sealer, the grain will show, more or less through the coats and that, together with the satin finish, should give the bass a look somehow similar to oil finish. Is that correct?
I'll leave you with two recent pictures. Thank you so much for your advises.
Is it advisable to shoot one or two clear coats first. Or should I start with z poxy?
If I don't use any grain sealer, the grain will show, more or less through the coats and that, together with the satin finish, should give the bass a look somehow similar to oil finish. Is that correct?
I'll leave you with two recent pictures. Thank you so much for your advises.
Yes Maurizio, that's the stuff. Epoxy adhesive is much more difficult to sand and clogs up the sandpaper. The finishing resin sands easily.
Your finishing procedure depends on the final appearance you want. Todd Stock's method is aimed having a perfectly smooth surface before applying laquer so that, whether it's a high gloss finish or satin or whatever, you won't see any dimples caused by the laquer sinking into the grain. If you want a finish similar to an oiled finish perhaps you don't need the epoxy at all. The only real answer is to do some test pieces on scrap wood.
Nice photos BTW.
Your finishing procedure depends on the final appearance you want. Todd Stock's method is aimed having a perfectly smooth surface before applying laquer so that, whether it's a high gloss finish or satin or whatever, you won't see any dimples caused by the laquer sinking into the grain. If you want a finish similar to an oiled finish perhaps you don't need the epoxy at all. The only real answer is to do some test pieces on scrap wood.
Nice photos BTW.
Thank you Dave. I've done some test and indeed this stuff is much easier to work with than the adhesive.
Doing without epoxy altogether is the alternative I'm considering. And I suppose I could still use the epoxy after a few coats of lacquer if I changed my mind?
Thank you
Doing without epoxy altogether is the alternative I'm considering. And I suppose I could still use the epoxy after a few coats of lacquer if I changed my mind?
Thank you
I spent the afternoon masking body and neck for the lacquer.
The neck with be lacquered satin, except for the finger board, which will be given a few coats of oil.
I masked both p-ups and electronics cavities. After lacquer I will apply the last coat of shielding paint.
The cavity cover will be shielded with copper foil. The screw inserts are sealed with tape. I wish I knew a better way of doing that
The end of the neck is masked too. Since it provides the fourth side of the neck p-up cavity, I will shield that as well.
Finally, some tape to mask the truss rod adjustment nut. I almost forgot about it
ops
There they are, hanging in anticipation
I recently bumped into a great shop specialized in airplanes models and all those wonderful nerdy tools... resins, CF sheets, bits, inserts, tiny brass and copper tubes.... The thought that from now on I won't have to wait for a DHL just brought tears to my eyes.
I had to buy something
This small power tool is powerful enough to perform small tasks - it's no Dremel OK? The complete set comes with a truckload of bits to work with wood, metal, glass. All accessories and spare parts are fully compatible with Dremel, so 65 bucks seemed very reasonable. And it's Italian. How could I say no to that? If anything, it's gonna break down in style
I have so far used it to polish brass inserts with a brass brush bit. Nice and easy. I did some sanding in tight corners - it comes with a flexible drive shaft. Apparently it can do engravings too
The neck with be lacquered satin, except for the finger board, which will be given a few coats of oil.
I masked both p-ups and electronics cavities. After lacquer I will apply the last coat of shielding paint.
The cavity cover will be shielded with copper foil. The screw inserts are sealed with tape. I wish I knew a better way of doing that
The end of the neck is masked too. Since it provides the fourth side of the neck p-up cavity, I will shield that as well.
Finally, some tape to mask the truss rod adjustment nut. I almost forgot about it
opsThere they are, hanging in anticipation
I recently bumped into a great shop specialized in airplanes models and all those wonderful nerdy tools... resins, CF sheets, bits, inserts, tiny brass and copper tubes.... The thought that from now on I won't have to wait for a DHL just brought tears to my eyes.
I had to buy something
This small power tool is powerful enough to perform small tasks - it's no Dremel OK? The complete set comes with a truckload of bits to work with wood, metal, glass. All accessories and spare parts are fully compatible with Dremel, so 65 bucks seemed very reasonable. And it's Italian. How could I say no to that? If anything, it's gonna break down in style
I have so far used it to polish brass inserts with a brass brush bit. Nice and easy. I did some sanding in tight corners - it comes with a flexible drive shaft. Apparently it can do engravings too
