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$100 Bass Challenge - Marceline's Axe Bass

I did a quick search to see how much Marcilene Axe Bass props sell for, and some of the nicer ones were upwards of $130. Yours is going to be head and tails above what I was able to find quality wise, and it will be a real bass. I am willing to bet you are going to have to fight off a lot of offers to buy that beauty from you!
 


Ever notice that sometimes she plays left handed and other times right handed on the same bass?


Ambidextrous bass players rock. I'm a right-hand only player. Though perhaps I'll try playing left handed, just for accuracy sake :P

I did a quick search to see how much Marcilene Axe Bass props sell for, and some of the nicer ones were upwards of $130. Yours is going to be head and tails above what I was able to find quality wise, and it will be a real bass. I am willing to bet you are going to have to fight off a lot of offers to buy that beauty from you!

I actually thought about what I'd do if someone offers me a good price for it once it's done. For $300 or less, I'd just assume keep it. More than that, I'd have to do some thinking.
 
I've never really watched this show, but that voice actor can sing!



And this build is going to be sweet!
Looking forward to the updates!

Edit: Oh holy crap:


I must learn these songs! Thanks for posting!

I figured I'd better cut a template to check the actual physical size.

2czov81.jpg


noc12t.jpg


Seems about right. As suspected, it's an ergonomic nightmare. The lower point of the upper axe blade cuts right into your forearm. I may have to wear leather cuffs for protection. I'm trying hard not to think about neck dive. But you know that we sometimes have to sacrifice comfort for style.
 
The future is here. Place an order on Saturday, stuff arrives on Monday even with free shipping. It must have all come from the warehouse here in town.

ekf85l.jpg


The tuners seem to work ok, but I can tell they are of lesser quality. I hope they hold up. The bridge looks like a standard Fender bridge. And the pickups - well, I guess we'll see.
 
How thick were you planning on making the axe? maybe you can have a thick center block, and then have the blades taper off, that was you get something somewhat resembling a forearm contour.

Two layers of the 4/4 lumber is about 1 5/8", so a little less than that at the center. The axe blades do seem to taper, so there will be a bit of a contour. Still, that upper blade point will need to be pretty pointy for the best effect.
 
Two layers of the 4/4 lumber is about 1 5/8", so a little less than that at the center. The axe blades do seem to taper, so there will be a bit of a contour. Still, that upper blade point will need to be pretty pointy for the best effect.

You might actually want to transition from double-thick to single-thick,and taper strongly for an axe-shape. Think Aerodyne, but moreso.
0254500506v3_hi-75a6f6890b050907815cfa79b458c295.jpg

65U1001s2.jpg

(I cannot seem to find a decent end-on view of a double-bit axe, but you get the idea from that picture, I think - though structural concerns will keep you from going that far on a wooden build.)

You might also want to put some heavy metal (lead, barring handy sources of scrap tungsten) on/in the bridge-end WRT neckdive (since you can't futz with the strap locations and stay true to character, weight distribution is your friend) and/or contour so that the bridge-side of the axe-blade is thicker than the neck side (ie, make neck to blade-edge taper, but also make the taper fatter at the bridge end and skinnier at the neck end. Given you'll paint it, any pine/basswood in the scrap bin? you could mahoganize (IIRC what you bought at the start of the thread) the bridge and transition to pine/bass towards the neck on the blades/wings.

Also (if you get ambitious) might want to see if you can rig some sort of un-strap (back swiveling connection to a belt, maybe?) since she often seems to float with it and play without a strap...
 
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I'm digging that so many bass players and builders like Adventure Time.

I had no idea. It's funny, my husband was watching Adventure time for a while, and got me into it. I'm amazed at its popularity.

You might actually want to transition from double-thick to single-thick,and taper strongly for an axe-shape. Think Aerodyne, but moreso.
0254500506v3_hi-75a6f6890b050907815cfa79b458c295.jpg

65U1001s2.jpg

(I cannot seem to find a decent end-on view of a double-bit axe, but you get the idea from that picture, I think - though structural concerns will keep you from going that far on a wooden build.)

You might also want to put some heavy metal (lead, barring handy sources of scrap tungsten) on/in the bridge-end WRT neckdive (since you can't futz with the strap locations and stay true to character, weight distribution is your friend) and/or contour so that the bridge-side of the axe-blade is thicker than the neck side (ie, make neck to blade-edge taper, but also make the taper fatter at the bridge end and skinnier at the neck end. Given you'll paint it, any pine/basswood in the scrap bin? you could mahoganize (IIRC what you bought at the start of the thread) the bridge and transition to pine/bass towards the neck on the blades/wings.

Also (if you get ambitious) might want to see if you can rig some sort of un-strap (back swiveling connection to a belt, maybe?) since she often seems to float with it and play without a strap...

Yes, this is a great design idea. Perhaps I can make some kind of router jig to obtain this shape.

Mapleglo gets my vote for coolest talkbasser ever.

You never cease to impress :)

You get my vote for coolest talkbasser ever :)