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1969 SVT restoration project

Thanks Jimmy and bobyoung53. So, bobyoung53, you're saying that the speaker jack plate should have just 1 plug-in? The one on mine appears to fit the opening correctly, but has 4 plugs-ins. If it is the incorrect one, I think you're saying it would be possible to use it correctly once the wiring is properly done, it just wouldn't be original in style. Thanks again. Big "O".
 
Ladies and gentleman, the first aspect of the restoration is now complete...may I present to you (drum roll)...THE CAB LOGO!!!

I took my want of a shiny new looking logo and Oren's wise advice about it not looking out of place, and I met somewhere in the middle. That means I painted the black parts, but I did a crappy job ;)

Actually, I did a good job. Might need a little touch-up, but it really does look good like this now, I think. I used a Painters pen for the A part, but for the lettering, it wouldn't fit in the grooves. A Sharpie would, but it did a poor job. So I took a magic marker, jammed it in the groove by smushing up the tip, colored everything in, then wiped off what was on the silver part with lacquer thinner on a rag. Looks good to me.

The pic is a little blurry but so am I after yet another bout of insomnia. Got a lot to do today, so I'm just going to go until I pass out ;)
 

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Looks good to me and glad you liked my advice. Now, if I can just find me one for my 73. I note that you are finding some of the tricks of refinishing/restoring to fit the need. Sometimes you can use model car brushes for tiny places. Spray your paint in the can's cap and then dip the brush in the residue and apply. Of course, there are numerous variations on this. Just, as you did with the magic marker, find what works for your situation. Good job. Big "O"
 
I'm a little late to this post, but better late than never.

Jimmy, Ted Weber is still doing recones, though he doesn't do every speaker. I don't know why people think he isn't reconing anymore as he's been doing most stuff again for at least a year now. I just sent him a Jensen Vibranto 15 inch speaker with a 2 inch voice coil and an alnico magnet for a recone today. He's able to do them because the cone is very similar to the ones he uses on his Chicago speaker. Since he is making CTS alnico magnet clones now, then maybe his cones would work on your speakers? It is certainly cheaper than where you're taking them. If you decide to keep them at the place where you took them, make sure they aren't just using some generic cone and are actually using the correct CTS cone or something made today that emulates it, or it will not sound like it should. I believe Ted Weber gets $50 each for a recone of a 10 inch speaker, plus shipping.

Also, I know a guy in Florida who makes speaker cabinets and does recovering and is VERY good and reasonably priced too. I bet he would love to work you a deal on recovering your cabinet to original spec. Shoot him an email and tell him Greg Simon sent you along. [email protected] . His name is Bill Lee.

Finally....6146B vs 6550. The 6146B was a ham radio and transmitter tube and was used in taxi cabs a lot back in the day. They don't do as well in continuous overload as a 6550 or KT88, especially in many guitar amp applications, but as long as you don't dime the amp all the time, they should be just fine. The 6146B amps have a more aggressive midrange, and not quite as much thumping deep lows as the 6550 amps, and they put out more power. I'd leave it stock myself.

Greg
 
Thanks Oren. Big doings in today's update! Man, I got more done today than I have in a long time!

Went to the tube store and got some tubes for my Super and B-15N tested, broken or Russian ones replaced with some sweet NOS tubes, and got the tube relay. For the record, it's a 115NO30, or a 115 volt normally open relay with a delay of 30 seconds, made of course by Amperite. From the looks of things, it was NOS, not new. Fine by me. New ones are $150 and this one was $22. The only thing none of us were sure about was the length of the delay, but we all agreed 30 would do the job the best.

Then I drove to Birddog's store and dropped off the relay and my Super for a Blackface conversion. While I was there, I spotted an old Kay and an old Montgomery Ward guitar amp. The Kay...eh...it looked cool, but I kept looking at the Ward amp. I asked him about it and he said it was a 2-channel 10w amp called the 62-9013a (precious little on the net about it, BTW), made for Ward by Danelectro, and he said Silvertone also sold the same amp rebranded for them. Then he told me about the work he put into it...cleaning it up, putting new caps in it, putting some weird blue speaker (12") in it that he couldn't identify, and revoicing it so channel one sounded good for harmonica and channel two sounded better for guitar. I always wanted a low-wattage guitar amp similar to the Champ so I could have great power tube breakup tones on guitar at low volumes for gigs and studio (sorry, I double but bass is my main squeeze). When Birddog plugged it in and played some blues, it sounded to me like a Champ on steroids. And it followed his response...he wanted SRV sound, he got it. He wanted Clapton sound, he got it. Power metal chords...no problem. Clean but thick fingerpicking tones...right there. Long story somewhat less long, it got in the car and came home with me against my will. It wasn't cheap but for all the mods it had and the sweet tone it put out, it was worth $225 to me, so out came the plastic! There goes the money I saved by not doing the SVT's retolexing.

Then when I came home, I took a look at this new amp, and I took a look at my B-15N, and I did what I had been putting off for a little while and decided to go ahead and do it...I called Jess Oliver, and now he is going to go through my B-15N and optimize it and recover the cab! He didn't quote me a price, but after a couple minutes of talking to him, I thought, "Idiot! How could you not want the inventor of the B-15N tweaking your B-15N no matter what it costs?" So I basically told him that he had carte blanche to do whatever he wants to it, and I will pay for it and pay gladly (didn't tell him that part). Even my wife thought it was a good idea, as a Jess Oliver-tweaked, recovered, and autographed B-15N with a paper trail to prove it will be worth a lot to her when I'm dead, even one as dilapidated as mine. He seemed shocked that mine had the double baffle since it was a 66, and he said that mine must have been one of the last before the transition to single baffle. As we finished up details, I told him how much it meant to me for him to work on it and that it was the greatest bass amp ever made (true) and I will keep it until I'm dead (also true), and he said, "Well that makes it all worth it for me. Thanks."

OK, enough of the sappy stuff...put your tissues away and fear this beauty of a 10w guitar amp! Two 6V6's for power, two 12AX7's for the pres, and a 6AU6 rec tube. Did I also mention it had built-in vibrato? Really, for what I do, the Super is overkill and this will be perfect for just about every guitar gig I do. It does what the Super does but at a lower volume. So now if I can tear myself away for a few minutes from the petty arguments about GC and mic'ing cabs and wanting things my way when I play out, I have a new guitar amp to rock out on. All you guys get are pics ;)
 

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Sorry folks, not much to report. I'm just doing this to bump the thread ;)

I've got some grillcloth and some other cosmetic stuff, and I'm expecting some of it today hopefully. But in the meantime, I've been stripping and sanding and inhaling chemical fumes indoors with poor ventilation. Eh, not really, but close to it. I'm getting ready to send my B-15N to Jess Oliver and I'm stripping the bogus black tolex off of it so I don't get charged out the wazoo for a re-tolexing. I'm about to knock off for the day, though. Thought about trying out some of his higher-power mods, but I hear they change the sound a lot, and I really don't want it changed at all if it affects tone, so I'll just settle for a vintage head-tweaking and a cab recover. And maybe a vintage speaker if he has anything good laying around. I like the Eminence that's in it, but I'm really getting into the vintage thing with speakers now.

Sorry this had nothing to do with the SVT, but hopefully I'll start having stuff to report soon.
 
Sure is! I was playing with it last night to get cool distortions with bass, and a blend of my B-15N and this amp is to die for! Plus it's the sound I've always wanted on guitar but never could get unless I turned my Super way past comfortable volume.
 
That's the thing about Fender guitar amps, you need one that's the right volume when it's cranked, then it'll have the sound and won't be too loud. I had a 135W Twin Reverb and 135W Bassman head, usually played them with the volume between 3-4 or it'd be too loud...too clean at that volume. Also had a BF Showman, same deal, but not as bad since it was less powerful and could be turned up more. One of the best sounding Fenders I ever played was a BF Deluxe Reverb.
 
Yeah, the BF's rule. My SF Super is getting a BF conversion as we speak. Man, I'm going to get killed when the bills come in...the SVT and Super are with Birddog, got my B-15 going to Jess Oliver, got my SVT 3 Pro with another tech...

Separation has its advantages ;)
 
Big day yesterday and another big one today, but not for the SVT. I'll get the grillcloth for it later today and that's about it until the speakers and head come back, so yesterday I stripped my B-15N cab's improper black tolex in preparation for the Jess Oliver treatment. Man, I forgot how not fun stripping a finish is. Used to do it for a local piano shop.

It was well covered in contact cement, and I started out with acetone because I had some here already. Acetone did ok but not especially good, so when it ran out I got some Jasco adhesive remover and things finally got moving. I didn't work straight through, but I started at 9:30 yesterday morning and finished at about 10:30 last night. Took about 4 coats of adhesive remover on each panel. Then I gave the flat panels a light sanding with the hand sander, hand sanded the sides and parts I missed, then scraped out the goo in the crevices with a razor blade. Mr. Oliver might need to do a little light touching up around the tricky parts, but other than that, it's ready to be recovered, and I should save a good bit of money on it by stripping it myself.

The first two pics here are the whole rig with the cab covered in tolex, then immediately after I stripped the tolex:
 

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Here are a couple of shots of the cab after I stripped it along with the outer baffle:
 

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Today I got the new grillcloth on the ol' SVT cab, and if I say so, I did a pretty good job for a first-timer with no instruction other than a couple websites and a carpenter brother I pestered with questions. Definitely not perfect...looks like I have to re-hang the logo, but I got the lines really straight for an amateur and there's not much sag at all. Looks like hell from the back, though, so we'll only see the front.

So finally I'm done with everything I'm doing myself, and don't yell at me for using generic Fender grillcloth for this cab. I just wanted something to spruce it up for the stage because there's no way in hell I'll be able to use this cab and keep it looking good if I restore it fully now, and Ampeg grillcloth is a lot more than this stuff.

Again, I'll remind you that I've never hung proper grillcloth before, so go easy on me when you point out all the flaws ;)
 

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Thx, A9X. The one thing that bugs me is I went to re-hang the logo, and I discovered that's about as good as it gets. I didn't quite get the cloth tight enough. Close but not quite. But I'm not about to pull out 150 staples to fix it. Everyone will just have to suffer with it not being perfect. Maybe I should tear a big hole in it to make it look like that's the reason it's not tight enough. Eh, that'll happen soon enough without doing it on purpose ;)
 
I do a lot of canvas stretching, sometimes when I have a canvas that isn't tight enough I get a clean paint brush and lightly brush some water onto the fabric so it becomes damp - it becomes very tight and stays tight after its dried. It might be a long shot that might work however it might not due to the difference between canvas and grillcloth fabric.
 
Didn't work. Might have made it slightly worse. I so don't want to pull staples out and redo it, but I'm tempted to. I'm going to take it to my brother on Sunday and see what he thinks.